Removing rusty self tapping screws

[Egon]

Seems to be lots of neat ways to do this job.

In the end probably one of the easier ways will be to saw the deck boards, pry them off, clean up stubs with an angle grinder, place new boards, drill new holes from the top, use proper sized bolts/nuts/washers and then use an air wrench to tighten.

If some boards are a little warped pipe clamps help get them in line.

Many of the original screws will break off when the cut board is lifted. Others will pull through the rotted decking board. A pry bar may be needed on some.

 

[Scooby074]

Trying to save the existing holes is pointless.

locating, measuring then transferring this dimension to the new boards will take much time unless you can go under the deck and drill pilot holes with the boards in position.

I guess i dont see the benefit of all that extra labour, having done several in the home of excess road salt.

 

[Short Game]

I love me some stainles steel bolts, washers and locknuts. I would countersink the boltheads and washers with a spade bit after drilling the bolt holes. That's if I aimed to keep the trailer, and I do aim to keep the one I have. That's why I figure to do this job. Some of the rot is getting problematic. I replaced the hydraulic brakes when I got it. I'm old, so I hope whoever gets my stuff will see what they have there. I'm figuring treated wood too.

 

[Shield Arc]

Another thing you can do. Once the boards are removed, grind down the stubs, take a pin punch and drive the screws on out. Take some 6011 or 6010 and plug weld the holes, grind flush, place the new boards.

 

[J_J]

Thanks guys. I am going to try several different remedy's. If I can remove the screws intact, I will put down the same size boards, and drill a pilot hole from the bottom, and then install the new TORX screws.

I honesty did think the heat would break the rust grip. I have seen rusty bolts removed with two carbon arc rods to heat the rusty nut/bolt to a cherry red, and when cooled, they unscrewed. If I touched a single carbon rod to the screw, will the screw heat up or will something else heat up

I believe those screws are screwed into 1/4 steel. Do you think grinding and using a punch will work? I am also thinking that if I do punch them out, I will have to go to the next larger screw. They are self tapping.

 

[dstig1]

JJ - You've used a tap before, no doubt a million times. You know how they will jam up if you don't reverse the direction every half turn or so? That's the metal you cut getting jammed up in the tap. These things do the same deal as they tap their own threads going in. They are jammed up to beat the band, and I doubt will ever come out. And rusted. And Torx heads are really bad for shearing off the bits when you really pound on them with a breaker bar or impact wrench. DAMHIKT.

Go for the brute force method mentioned - cut the boards, pry them out and break off or grind/cut the stubs sticking up. The bottom is irrelevant so leave the stubs sticking out underneath. Then new boards, redrill and go.

 

[Skyco]

All the talk of screws has me wondering...I recently picked up a small 5x10 Carry-On trailer for small jobs.
The deck boards are NAILED on! I don't know what kind of nails they are but they are shot through the board and the steel angle cross members
I can't imagine the fun those will be when the time comes.....

BTW a local dealer sells the Carry-On brand for hundreds less than TSC or Lowes...:thumbsup:

 

[Shield Arc]

Probably used a Ramset.

Ramset RS22 - .22 Caliber Stud Gun


http://youtu.be/MD-yAjSPgwU

 

[J_J]

Yes, you can use the Ramset to connect wood to metal. You need to test the metal by using one of the nails, and if it will ding the steel, it should penetrate. Thin stuff, not 3/8 in plate.

 

[Gizmo2]

I would forget about using the same holes.
1) You would probably need to drill holes in the new wood from underneath the trailer once the boards were on in order to have holes line up.
2) USUALLY you don't need half the holes that are OEM.
3) I usually make a channel in the front of the trailer bed to slide the front of the boards in so no bolts are needed. If nothing else just weld a piece of flat stock across the front of the trailer bed to make a channel.
4) Boards will last longer if loose and probably the steel will as well.
5) Depending on width of boards 2 bolts across the back per board.

Yeah I know this did not help much in getting out the old bolts.