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Rons Grader
- Thread starter RonMar
- Start date
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RonMar
Elite Member
jimmysisson
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2005
- Messages
- 2,358
- Location
- W.Mass
- Tractor
- 1993 NH 2120 (the best), 1974 MF 135 (sold, but solid), 1947 Farmall A (bought, sold, bought back, sold again), 1956 MH50 lbt (sold, in 1980, darn it)
That's the real fun of building something - having it work pretty well first time out! Congratulations, and nice work. Send a pic of the dump when you get the remote working.
Jim
Jim
Any of you consider building an extra blade for the front, that could be installed a little lower than the original front one, only this one to angle? The purpose would be so you could pull up dirt/gravel from the right side and migrate it to the middle.
If I had a long driveway, I'd really be interested in something like that.
HTH.
Ron
If I had a long driveway, I'd really be interested in something like that.
HTH.
Ron
LetsRoll
Gold Member
RonR
The only thing I wish I'd done different was the angle of the front blade (adjustable angle that is, like tilting the blade up and down). I wish now that I had made it so I could change the angle up and down. But other than that, a angle from side to side, its not needed. Mine is set at 65 degree's and it cuts aggresively already with a straight blade. An angled blade would cause excessive material to build up on the left side skid (setting on the tractor).
The only thing I wish I'd done different was the angle of the front blade (adjustable angle that is, like tilting the blade up and down). I wish now that I had made it so I could change the angle up and down. But other than that, a angle from side to side, its not needed. Mine is set at 65 degree's and it cuts aggresively already with a straight blade. An angled blade would cause excessive material to build up on the left side skid (setting on the tractor).
OP
RonMar
Elite Member
Ron
When I was researching these type graders a while back, I seem to recall that the company that makes the Dura-Grader makes a model like that. I also recall they make a really large one with a "V" cutting blade that directs material to the middle to smooth and crown a road or levee top in a single pass.
When I was researching these type graders a while back, I seem to recall that the company that makes the Dura-Grader makes a model like that. I also recall they make a really large one with a "V" cutting blade that directs material to the middle to smooth and crown a road or levee top in a single pass.
Fishguy
Silver Member
Ron,
Where you made the loop in the turn around, had you been driving there prior to scraping it? I have one of these on order from Howes. I am planning on using it to maintain the gravel road and drive plus level the yard where I've tilled it. I'm curious if I should continue to till prior to leveling or just drop 'er down and go for it!
Any suggestions?
Steve
Where you made the loop in the turn around, had you been driving there prior to scraping it? I have one of these on order from Howes. I am planning on using it to maintain the gravel road and drive plus level the yard where I've tilled it. I'm curious if I should continue to till prior to leveling or just drop 'er down and go for it!
Any suggestions?
Steve
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RonMar
Elite Member
Yes, I had been driving on the area of the circle for quite a while(pretty well packed). The blade dug right in and pulled up the sod though. A little more weight here would have probably been better but it came up after a few passes. The clumps of sod tended to hang up on the top of the blades untill they broke apart. If you have tilled a bit where you are going to work, that will help with this type grader.
The blade rippd out some pretty big rocks in the process. We call them Sequim potatoes around here and I sure grew a lot of them this last week. It took a little bit of trial and error but once the toplink was set, it shaved the high spots nicely and deposited the cut material into the low spots. With a little practice, I was also able to leave collected rocks in groups for easier collection. Large groups of rock tended to interfere with the operation as the grader will ride up on them like it is on ballbearings.
Just a little work in the evenings and a bit on Saturday and it is done. I have 20 yards of 3/4" crushed rock on the way tomorrow afternoon so I will see how well it spreads then. I am sure it will work well as it did a great job with loose dirt/sand.
The blade rippd out some pretty big rocks in the process. We call them Sequim potatoes around here and I sure grew a lot of them this last week. It took a little bit of trial and error but once the toplink was set, it shaved the high spots nicely and deposited the cut material into the low spots. With a little practice, I was also able to leave collected rocks in groups for easier collection. Large groups of rock tended to interfere with the operation as the grader will ride up on them like it is on ballbearings.
Just a little work in the evenings and a bit on Saturday and it is done. I have 20 yards of 3/4" crushed rock on the way tomorrow afternoon so I will see how well it spreads then. I am sure it will work well as it did a great job with loose dirt/sand.
Fishguy
Silver Member
What I need to grade was at one time farm land. So hopefully the only rock will be what the construction crews threw around from my gravel drive. I really just need to knock down the row mounds so I won't need a massage after each time I mow. (not that I would complain /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif, but the wife just gives me one of those looks when I ask /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif) Plus it's not a very pretty sight when the ole gut gets to bouncing in unison with the bumps!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I just found out that the grader is in town and will be delivered tomorrow. I guess my weekend is planned!
Thanks for the help
Steve
I just found out that the grader is in town and will be delivered tomorrow. I guess my weekend is planned!
Thanks for the help
Steve
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