Root Cellar Remodel, Split Level Storage, Shop, Shed Pole Building on a Foundation

[TCJatko]

Good job on using recyled/scrounged materials. Not only is it a wise use of resources, but it's also smart. Good for you.:thumbsup:

 

[Learning to Farm]

Good job on using recyled/scrounged materials. Not only is it a wise use of resources, but it's also smart. Good for you.:thumbsup:

+1

Also, after thinking about it if you have enough having most of one color on the bottom (say brown), then a row or two (of green) then top it with two or three rows (of grey) would not look horrible. Try to match both sides if you can. If they are all shades of the same color so black, charchole (sp), grey, light grey... I would mix and match... that is my :2cents:!

 

[NormL]

You might do well to experiment with a model of the structure - out of Lego or some such - and try different arrangements of the available colours on paper for the roof. As suggested earlier, your wife and / or others in your family are sure to have opinions, too.

 

[Depmandog]

I found some pics - some good, some bad and some ugly

edit: sorry for the double pic post

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I found some pics - some good, some bad and some ugly

edit: sorry for the double pic post

This one is my favorite...

That pattern actually looks kind of cool. All I could come up with before I saw that were different stripes.

I'm inspired, now.

Mrs. Iplayfarmer may have an opinion. I'll have to get a few options to present and ask her opinion. Even if she doesn't have an opinion, I'll get points for asking.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I hung two more joists last night. It's not much, but I feel better having done at least something.

Those are the last of the full length floor joists. Now I have to frame in the stair well. My goal is to get all the floor framing and subfloor down by the end of Saturday. On Sunday I'm going to return the cement mixer to my BIL and get my framing nailer back from him. I've been screwing and hand nailing the floor framing together, but I'm going to want the nailer to frame the walls, etc.

It's probably good that I didn't have the nailer for the subfloor. I used a lot of screws in strategic places. It would have been too easy to shoot a nail instead if I had the nailer.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I have a design question regarding chimney installation. How big of an opening do I need to plan for in the ceiling for the chimney?

At some point I'd like to put in a small wood stove. I'm trying to plan ahead by roughing in an opening to prevent having to re-frame after the fact.

 

[Depmandog]

A you wanting to go with metal I assume? Your stove will probably have a 6" but might be 8" outlet. You will run black stove pipe up to the ceiling, and from there will use the insulated pipe.

There are several manufacturers of metal chimney pipe - all use a slightly different method to keep the exterior of the pipe cool. A 6" triple wall probably measures 12". The 8" would measure about 14"

But I have seen the double wall insulated at 10" dia for a 8" and about 8" for an 6".

All these systems have a black support box the chimney sets in. They allow an inch or so clearance from the support box to the chimney (both sides). The support box is fastened into the framing - and needs to be the correct size.

So long post to tell you - pick out your chimney now - get the RO measurement needed for the chimney support and do it right the first time.

How big is the area you will be heating? You probably can "size" your stove and make a good guess if you will need 6 or 8" piping (without actually buying a stove now).

 

[Iplayfarmer]

A you wanting to go with metal I assume? Your stove will probably have a 6" but might be 8" outlet. You will run black stove pipe up to the ceiling, and from there will use the insulated pipe.

There are several manufacturers of metal chimney pipe - all use a slightly different method to keep the exterior of the pipe cool. A 6" triple wall probably measures 12". The 8" would measure about 14"

But I have seen the double wall insulated at 10" dia for a 8" and about 8" for an 6".

All these systems have a black support box the chimney sets in. They allow an inch or so clearance from the support box to the chimney (both sides). The support box is fastened into the framing - and needs to be the correct size.

So long post to tell you - pick out your chimney now - get the RO measurement needed for the chimney support and do it right the first time.

How big is the area you will be heating? You probably can "size" your stove and make a good guess if you will need 6 or 8" piping (without actually buying a stove now).

The finished workshop will be just under 200 square feet. I expect I'll use one of the smallest stoves available. I may even end up with a small tent stove. For now I'll just heat with my little kerosene space heater. I may just use the kerosene heater indefinately if I never find the right deal on a good wood stove.

I was hoping that there was a standard size for the chimney support boxes. I may just look a few of them up and frame for the larger of the sizes that I find. Another thing I need to figure out is how far away from the walls I'll need to be.

It may be one of those things that I can't really plan ahead for. I'll do the best I can to anticipate the needs. If I'm wrong, the worst case scenario is that I'll have to do some framing after the fact. I won't be any worse off than if I hadn't planned ahead.

 

[charlz]

For 200 sqft you could probably just get away with a vent-less propane heater.