Saplings and brush around pond banks. Suggestions?

Hay Dude

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It took a lot of work but I used a stihl 131 Combi-system with Australian brush cutter blades (Best I’ve ever found) and I zipped right thru all the brush and saplings around my pond as my wife followed with some 2-4D and a paint brush. She brushed the 2-4D On all the freshly cut saplings and brush and they never came back. After they were dead, I again used the brush cutter and zipped the stubs right down to the ground and now I only have grasses and wild flowers around the pond. Watch Anton Visser Brush Destructor blades on You tube. He has several videos. The things are a bit pricey but totally amazing.
THIS^
 

bluecanoebrewer

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It took a lot of work but I used a stihl 131 Combi-system with Australian brush cutter blades (Best I’ve ever found) and I zipped right thru all the brush and saplings around my pond [...] Watch Anton Visser Brush Destructor blades on You tube. He has several videos. The things are a bit pricey but totally amazing.
It looks like that's https://brushdestructor.com? $160 to $240 depending on if you want replacement/maintenance parts as well.
That website is a train wreck and probably works well for Aussies since he's close, but it seems to me he'd do himself a big favor by giving Amazon.com a call and sell his wares that way.

@devodad, how long did it take to get your product shipped to the US? (me, an American, arrogantly assuming you're an American as well)

It's the same price of another weed eater, but if it's working great, has lasted a long time and is maintainable, I'll join that bandwagon. I doubt the squareish metal blade i just got from Lowes for $20 will do what i think it will.
 

broadsword6

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New tractor owner looking for some advice. I have an issue around my pond with some plant I can't recognize that likes to grow right on the water's edge. They can get quite large if left unchecked. I let them get a bit out of hand last summer and had to spend many hours with the chainsaw addressing the issue over the winter. Now there's small stumps and the freaking buggers are starting to come back again. I'd rather not have to back a bushhog up and down the bank over and over and larger the batwings seem like a bit much for my needs. Anyone have any suggestions? would a flail work well?

Note, my tractor doesn't have remotes or a 3rd function, but I've considered adding them, if needed.

Also, I'm aware of the laneshark, but I'm seriously wondering if it's worth the price. For most of my cutting needs, a bushhog would work very well. I only need something like this for the pond banks.

The pond is roughly 5 acres. Some of the bank edges have a ~1 - 2' drop to the water.
I don't want to come off as a tree hugger here, but a few things come to mind. First, a riparian barrier between field and water encourages beneficial insects and birdlife, which in turn enhance the pond life. Fish have some shade to hide in, as do the amphibians they feed on (depending on species obviously). In my experience with 3 ponds on 100 acres, riparian barriers are a good thing. But if they are interfering with access to fishing, then selectively cutting back access portals makes sense.
This brings up the question of herbicides for the control of riparian plants. No matter what formulation is used, using it introduces toxins to the water column, and that will have negative consequences for pond life. Selective removal with a backhoe or periodic cut back with the brushcutter seem to be the best solutions in my case and may work for you. Admittedly, I do have a backhoe attachment for my tractor, so that is easy for me to say. Even so, it seems to me that as land stewards we have a bit of an obligation to ensure all our land management decisions enhance the ecosystems we are looking after and that we pass them on to the next generation in better condition than we found them. Not sure the liberal application of 24-D at the waterline fits that criteria. Just a thought and no doubt a controversial one, for which death threats will seem the only reasonable response to many.
 

EddieWalker

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... for which death threats will seem the only reasonable response to many.
No death threats from me, even though I disagree.

By leaving those areas to grow wild, you are creating an un natural habitat compared to what would be growing there if humans had never been part of the equation. Most of our habitat has been modified to the point that it's very hard to comprehend what it was like 500 years ago.

One of the biggest misunderstandings is that super thick forests and understory are not natural!!! Mother Nature cleans out the understory with fires. She chokes it out with old growth trees. The same with pasture and prairie land.

For me, the biggest issue with plants growing along the shore of a pond is how thick it can get with snakes. Water moccasins love it!!!!!
 

bluecanoebrewer

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I don't want to come off as a tree hugger here, but [...] Just a thought and no doubt a controversial one, for which death threats will seem the only reasonable response to many.
I hope one of your trees die.

...maybe an invasive species that you've been having trouble getting rid of.
Dang brother, what kind of forums are you used to? Death threats? geez.

Those are good points to bring up that haven't been yet. Except for maybe that one reply about the copper sulphate (?) in the now forever deadly crystal clear pond.
Sometimes we get pretty frustrated and just want the thing magically gone, and if not used smartly, chemicals are an easy quick fix with some bad consequences we don't find out about.
 

the old grind

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Just right for trees too well rooted to be grubbed (3"-4" dia here, some smaller willows) or that would disrupt banks to much to dig out with the BH.
 

Creamer

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I have an M18 Milwaukee Pole saw and a Stihl MS110 brush cutter, Makes good paths for the tractor and getting around the larger dead trees to take them out.
Tractor with toothbar to rip up honeysuckle and other woody brush by the roots. Backhoe if needed for the bigger stumps.
I try not to spray much except the stiltgrass which just starting taking over any disturbed soil and open space in the area.
Sorry but my tractors clear their own paths or I wouldn't have them.
 

Creamer

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I don't want to come off as a tree hugger here, but a few things come to mind. First, a riparian barrier between field and water encourages beneficial insects and birdlife, which in turn enhance the pond life. Fish have some shade to hide in, as do the amphibians they feed on (depending on species obviously). In my experience with 3 ponds on 100 acres, riparian barriers are a good thing. But if they are interfering with access to fishing, then selectively cutting back access portals makes sense.
This brings up the question of herbicides for the control of riparian plants. No matter what formulation is used, using it introduces toxins to the water column, and that will have negative consequences for pond life. Selective removal with a backhoe or periodic cut back with the brushcutter seem to be the best solutions in my case and may work for you. Admittedly, I do have a backhoe attachment for my tractor, so that is easy for me to say. Even so, it seems to me that as land stewards we have a bit of an obligation to ensure all our land management decisions enhance the ecosystems we are looking after and that we pass them on to the next generation in better condition than we found them. Not sure the liberal application of 24-D at the waterline fits that criteria. Just a thought and no doubt a controversial one, for which death threats will seem the only reasonable response to many.
When I first bought my place I asked the County Extension Agent for suggestions to clean up the edge and reduce the weed growth in the lake. His only suggestion was about 2 gallons of 2,4-D aqua per acre for the lake and 2,4-D and some other chemicals for the edge. All I am thinking is that there was no way I was swimming or eating fish out a lake with that much 2,4-D in it. So we got sterilized grass carp for the lake itself and I cleaned up the edge of about 1/4 of the perimeter which is about 3/8 of a mile. I tried string trimmers, bush hogs, and various other techniques including manual cutting and decided I did not have enough time for that tom foolery.

The other thing I really like about the sickle bar mower for this is the nice clean even look it leaves and it extends out into the lake and cuts underwater leaving a very clean pond edge. You do not want to hit he water with any type of rotary mower. Take a look at this video I made a few years back.
 
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Creamer

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Can you post photos of the tree's your sickle mower has cut?? Some of us are skeptical. :unsure:
I understand the skepticism as I had it as well. If you read the description of the mower you will notice it takes a certain type of guard and section - this is called experience. I also specified that I cut off up to 3" cottonwood or willow but I wouldn't take it into a 3" hard maple or oak - I have cut off 2" diameter saplings of these hardwoods though. My mower is a NH 455 trailer type. I did not want a semi-mounted with a bunch more weight hanging off the low side of the tractor - the mower balances itself. I also cut with the loader off - partially because I use the same hydraulics and partially because that front end weight is less stable on the front axle.

I like the sickle bar because it does it does reach out and I do not have to get close to the pond edge. I will try to find a some trees I have cut with the sickle bar but it has been a few years. maybe I will go cut a few because it is about time I cleaned up some field edges.

Here is a video I made a few years ago of trimming some of the pond edge. You can see the how the cutter bar floats with the contour and there are some small saplings that are getting cut. You can see how evenly it lays the material down. You will notice that mine is not a pitman stick model which I would not recommend.
 

lostcreekranch

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No death threats from me, even though I disagree.

By leaving those areas to grow wild, you are creating an un natural habitat compared to what would be growing there if humans had never been part of the equation. Most of our habitat has been modified to the point that it's very hard to comprehend what it was like 500 years ago.

One of the biggest misunderstandings is that super thick forests and understory are not natural!!! Mother Nature cleans out the understory with fires. She chokes it out with old growth trees. The same with pasture and prairie land.

For me, the biggest issue with plants growing along the shore of a pond is how thick it can get with snakes. Water moccasins love it!!!!!

Well stated.
 

Hay Dude

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I think the sickle mower has its place in everything from gas’s to heavy weeds. The problem is, the OP has thick saplings, which are over the pay grade of the sickle bar mower.
 
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Depending on how step the banks are, seems it would be a great spot for an offset flail.

I can't speak directly to the quality of this particular unit, but have a look and see what you think. They are less expensive than I thought when I started looking.

48-in 3-Point Offset Flail Ditch Bank Mower

Best,

ed
So I have this one and am still having mixed feelings on it... For what I have invested in it, I do not look forward to hooking it up. Was just about to go out and mow and got enough rain that I'll need to hold off again for it to dry up. Here is my review and experience with this Flail Mower... if you have filled tires or wheel weights it may be the answer. I do have steeper areas that I have found backing up the brush hog is the safest approach.
 

kenmbz

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Sorry but my tractors clear their own paths or I wouldn't have them.
Too many dead Ash trees to take Tractor back there. Hit one and see how many dead branches come down.
Brushcutter/Pole saw allows me control to get around these trees and take them down clean.
 

Hay Dude

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I had a huge Ferri 8 foot offset flail. It was an excellent machine, but it threw a 125HP tractor around pretty good. It was clumsy and I ended-up selling it.
 

ArlyA

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So I have this one and am still having mixed feelings on it... For what I have invested in it, I do not look forward to hooking it up. Was just about to go out and mow and got enough rain that I'll need to hold off again for it to dry up. Here is my review and experience with this Flail Mower... if you have filled tires or wheel weights it may be the answer. I do have steeper areas that I have found backing up the brush hog is the safest approach.
Thanks for posting this. This kind of experience is good to know.
 
  
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OP
D

deelowe

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So I have this one and am still having mixed feelings on it... For what I have invested in it, I do not look forward to hooking it up. Was just about to go out and mow and got enough rain that I'll need to hold off again for it to dry up. Here is my review and experience with this Flail Mower... if you have filled tires or wheel weights it may be the answer. I do have steeper areas that I have found backing up the brush hog is the safest approach.
Thank you for this. Is your tractor ballasted? My tires are filled. This is close to flail I was looking at. What size is it?

Having second thoughts after seeing this review
 

the old grind

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Did we ever see pics of the area(s) to be cleared? SO much good advice given here but details and best options gotta be site-specific. WIMI I use different things depending on the area/size/growth I'm going to work, say on a big weekend or maybe a bit here and there. With clearing and re-treating, and with as much as I have to work with now (machinery, experience) it wasn't always that way nor was the pace of progress.

Start cheap to curtail growth while the other resources are coming together. 'Slash' bark and use glypho on trees that are larger and or won't be removed right away. Spread the work out. Use everything mentioned if convenient. Consider renting/hiring heavy gear or help that won't be needed for long term upkeep. Man, of you only lived closer I could drop off the Terramite for a few weeks and you wouldn't be swappng-out a BH for a 3PH slasher of whichever type as often. Let's get 'em!
 
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Thank you for this. Is your tractor ballasted? My tires are filled. This is close to flail I was looking at. What size is it?

Having second thoughts after seeing this review
This is the 48" one and no I do not currently have my tires filled or any sort of wheel weights. The pond bank is soft enough that I'm afraid weighted tires would cause me to sink and slide towards the water. Honestly the reach is not as far as I'd like and i'm not really on much of a slope but it sure feels squirrelly. I was hoping to use it today and we got rain so i'll try tomorrow. I have some 75# blocks I was thinking about putting in the left side of my FEL and keep it real low to see if that would create any sort of counterbalance... I think i could probably get 300#s left of center in the bucket... I really wanted to love this as my solution but so far it is not the silver bullet I had hoped for... You will also need the $1k plus investment in the rear remotes.
 
  
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D

deelowe

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Did we ever see pics of the area(s) to be cleared? SO much good advice given here but details and best options gotta be site-specific. WIMI I use different things depending on the area/size/growth I'm going to work, say on a big weekend or maybe a bit here and there. With clearing and re-treating, and with as much as I have to work with now (machinery, experience) it wasn't always that way nor was the pace of progress.

Start cheap to curtail growth while the other resources are coming together. 'Slash' bark and use glypho on trees that are larger and or won't be removed right away. Spread the work out. Use everything mentioned if convenient. Consider renting/hiring heavy gear or help that won't be needed for long term upkeep. Man, of you only lived closer I could drop off the Terramite for a few weeks and you wouldn't be swappng-out a BH for a 3PH slasher of whichever type as often. Let's get 'em!
Agreed. I hope to get some tomorrow. I’ve had a few issues with the tractor that have taken precedence for now unfortunately. I posted about them in the Kubota section.
 
  
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deelowe

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This is the 48" one and no I do not currently have my tires filled or any sort of wheel weights. The pond bank is soft enough that I'm afraid weighted tires would cause me to sink and slide towards the water. Honestly the reach is not as far as I'd like and i'm not really on much of a slope but it sure feels squirrelly. I was hoping to use it today and we got rain so i'll try tomorrow. I have some 75# blocks I was thinking about putting in the left side of my FEL and keep it real low to see if that would create any sort of counterbalance... I think i could probably get 300#s left of center in the bucket... I really wanted to love this as my solution but so far it is not the silver bullet I had hoped for... You will also need the $1k plus investment in the rear remotes.
Yeah. I think I’ll get a rotary cutter for now and go from there. Others have suggested pulling the big stuff up by the roots. I need a grapple anyways for other projects so maybe that’s the better investment for now if I’m going to add any hydraulic functions.
 

ning

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This is the 48" one and no I do not currently have my tires filled or any sort of wheel weights. The pond bank is soft enough that I'm afraid weighted tires would cause me to sink and slide towards the water. Honestly the reach is not as far as I'd like and i'm not really on much of a slope but it sure feels squirrelly. I was hoping to use it today and we got rain so i'll try tomorrow. I have some 75# blocks I was thinking about putting in the left side of my FEL and keep it real low to see if that would create any sort of counterbalance... I think i could probably get 300#s left of center in the bucket... I really wanted to love this as my solution but so far it is not the silver bullet I had hoped for... You will also need the $1k plus investment in the rear remotes.
Do I see that the offset flail mower requires two remotes for its operation?
Does it work well without a TnT kit, or does it really need more than two remotes total?
 

the old grind

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I do with the flail what I'd do with a rotary and vice versa. With the mower raised and a load in the bucket I back into position lower the mower part-way, engage, and bring the rpms up. (54" 3PH flail, 26+ PTO hp)

If a lot of field mowing isn't planned I suggest a 5'-6' medium duty rotary vs any wider. I used a 6' behind my 45hp gas and diesel Deeres (1520, 5210). I had the hp but wish I'd had more maneuverability. I sold it after a decade of only being used a dozen times.

Anyway IMO that too big a cutting area (X-Y plane) to match a curving bank (toward the water) just won't cut clean favors the flail for more than just less weight & hanging as far back. I bought mine with hammers and I get a cleaner cut, no windrows, no chaff, far great maneuverability than I ever had with the BH, and it's better that no counterweight for light grapple or loader work so can be left on for a while.
 
  
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deelowe

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I do with the flail what I'd do with a rotary and vice versa. With the mower raised and a load in the bucket I back into position lower the mower part-way, engage, and bring the rpms up. (54" 3PH flail, 26+ PTO hp)

If a lot of field mowing isn't planned I suggest a 5'-6' medium duty rotary vs any wider. I used a 6' behind my 45hp gas and diesel Deeres (1520, 5210). I had the hp but wish I'd had more maneuverability. I sold it after a decade of only being used a dozen times.

Anyway IMO that too big a cutting area (X-Y plane) to match a curving bank (toward the water) just won't cut clean favors the flail for more than just less weight & hanging as far back. I bought mine with hammers and I get a cleaner cut, no windrows, no chaff, far great maneuverability than I ever had with the BH, and it's better that no counterweight for light grapple or loader work so can be left on for a while.
Thanks for the response. Which flail are you using?
 

the old grind

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I bought a EFG 135 from Betstco and couldn't be happier with it. (53" cut vs 54" :rolleyes: ) The hammers are forged steel and I've neither chipped or dulled a one. Knee-high grass growing across the road & going to seed, check. Mowing horse-riding paths through field grasses and blackberries taller than me (6' 2") with 'trunks' to 1/4" dia, no prob. Olive, poplar, elm & willow by the pond to 1" dia, go slow and gone. I double-passed a 3/4 ac food plot in progress, that had been 'hogged' to 6-8" and left windrows that could have been baled. btw, that the cut width is narrow compared to most of all my 60" wide everything else is IMO such a non issue.

Would I do anything different? Let me take & post some fresh pics tomorrow (of pond approaches & since what I did last year) and put some things in context. I mow my 2+ ac lawn 'high' (>4") with a 61" 28 hp ZTR. I set my flail at 2" or less. Pretty much anything I've 'flailed' is cake for the ZTR for a year or so. Sorry to go on about flail mowers but IMO they're the most no-brainer-versatile and useful 3-PH implement I've ever had several years experience with (out of 20). Doesn't obviate anything said heretofore about other tips/tricks just that the tool does so much for this and much more.

As for the brand I chose: IMO good value esp for my use (5-10 hrs/yr after 3), well built. Pre-flight checks are easy. One cover-bolt to remove & check belt condition/tension, check the gearbox lube, a few pumps with the grease gun and you're "ok for lift-off". Note that belts are 'proprietary' AKA 1/2" increments with FHM. eg: 59 1/2" called out vs 59" or 60" typical. I smoked one pair (if you smell 'em their toast. Don't back up while engaged. Operating is not like patting your head while rubbing your stomach. lol) There was enough room me to adjust for 59"s, so TSC has all I'd need.

This is what mine looks like. If I had a Kubo MX of 45-50 PTO hp or so I'd consider/want the 60" med duty for ~$100 more than the 53" .. and I'd still be the most popular guy in the neighborhood for what it can do. Again, sorry to carry on .. (pics of results tomorrow)
 

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Big Blue Florida

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I'll back up here a minute. If you're still concerned about the stumps returning into a tree(s), I might suggest going back to the chain saw.
This time make a cut down the middle of the stump. We did this around our pond (the last one we dug).
Nothing grew back after the vertical cut.

Just keep in mind, I've no clue as to what trees you're having an issue with.
 

Hay Dude

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Deelow,

I noticed you have a decent sized tractor. I don’t know all your other mowing chores, but another mower I recommend is a John Deere MX-8 twin spindle side shift mower. I had one of these mowers for years and it was a stellar mower.
It hooked up like any ordinary bush hog mower and had an 8’ cut width. However, it had a unique feature which allowed it to shift to the side 2 feet, allowing you to mow pond banks, under fences, under trees, etc. Did an excellent job and served me well for many years.
I bought it lightly used for about $4500. Sold it 5 years later for $5000.
If you can drive around your pond without danger of sliding or tipping into it, this may be very helpful. If I had to guess, I would say your tractor is probably 6‘-7’ wide. The MX-8, fully swung out to one side, should give you almost 3 feet of mowing width past your tractor tire.
Heres a few pictures of mine from about 15 years ago.

1622113967947.jpeg


1622113681472.jpeg
 
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big bubba

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OP: looks like you're doing your homework on the project
so at what point will you start consuming fish from your pond should you go ahead with the chemicals many suggest here?
just asking, not an opinion. best on you challenge, a 3 acre pond is a gem to have
 
  
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deelowe

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Trying to avoid chemicals. We plan to eat some of the fish fairly soon
 

ArlyA

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So I have this one and am still having mixed feelings on it... For what I have invested in it, I do not look forward to hooking it up. Was just about to go out and mow and got enough rain that I'll need to hold off again for it to dry up. Here is my review and experience with this Flail Mower... if you have filled tires or wheel weights it may be the answer. I do have steeper areas that I have found backing up the brush hog is the safest approach.
Josh, Maybe a 3 or 4 series tractor would have been better with this implement?
 

pmsmechanic

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This is what I use to mow steep areas. If it gets really steep I'll back in, pull out and work my way across that way.
 

Mr Enduro

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i have never tried on a pond area but i use Tordon brush killer, cut the growing bush or tree and apply Tordon to the top of stump while fresh cut and bingo it will die. i had acess to tordon pellets a few years ago and app;ied to a fence row of vines growing in a fence. the following year 2 mulberry trees approx 15" away were dead so use common sense when using.
 

ArlyA

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Mar 18, 2016
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4,902
Location
Houghton MI (the Lake Superior snow belt) USA
Tractor
Polaris Boss 6x6 with pods (tracks) Center actuating lawn mower by Husky

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This is what I use to mow steep areas. If it gets really steep I'll back in, pull out and work my way across that way.

Seems this is a good idea for limited area's but the OP needs to do this to the whole pond and its the mud he's dealing with, more so that steep banks.
 

txvrod

Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2020
Messages
26
Location
South Texas
Tractor
Mahindra 1538HST Cabin
Smokydog - looks like your tractor is trying camouflage. How has the Intimidator been working for you. Went to local dealer web site to see how it works. If you don't mind - what was the cost? Thanks - Oosik.
I have one as well and love it. Had a hard time finding one and contacted Danuser by email. I needed an adapter for the John Deere to skid steer connection and was having problems getting this information as well. Glenn Danuser, himself, called me with in 5 minutes of me hitting send. This call was after reading my email of frustration over 2 weeks of not hearing from the adapter guy. By the end of the day, I had information on the adapter with emails from General Implements (happy with them after our conversation) and the local pick up for both the adapter and the Intimidator! The adapter is a Worksaver brand. Glenn was great and I highly recommend Danuser, American made and strong as it gets. You can close the jaws and dig some to break up roots. I recently used it to clear trees off of a fence line. Cut branches out of the fence and pull away, no stumps to deal with. Shake off the dirt and leave it there. That big oak was next to the fence and unfortunately needed to be removed. his is a 100hp Deere, 8 foot Rhino cutter on the back for counter weight with the tires filled.
 

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  • Thread Starter
#135  
OP
D

deelowe

Bronze Member
Joined
May 21, 2021
Messages
68
Location
West Georgia
Tractor
Kubota Mx5400
Here are some pics of the pond. I also included a close up of the things that grow and get really bushy/woody if not kept under control.
 

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ArlyA

Elite Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2016
Messages
4,902
Location
Houghton MI (the Lake Superior snow belt) USA
Tractor
Polaris Boss 6x6 with pods (tracks) Center actuating lawn mower by Husky
deelowe, you posted 24MB of photos. This is two large for me to open. Doesn't anyone here know how to downsize the photos they!!! :sick:
 

the old grind

Elite Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2012
Messages
4,968
Location
Mid-Michigan
Tractor
NH T-1520 HST, NH TC33DA HST, Case DX26 HST, .Terramite T5C, . NH L785
I wonder how much shore line needs to be cleared and continually maintained for fishing access. When I still had a sandy beach next to the dock it was ~30 ft wide. That area is cattails now. (wildlife buffer) Kids next door came over to fish, swim, and fish while wading four or five times in the last week. None were intimidated by the ~ 2,000 feet of shore that I don't clear or maintain. :unsure:
 

dirttoys

Platinum Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2021
Messages
515
Location
Ozarks
Tractor
ac 170 bobcat 773 tak 235
Good idea's here (none as good as mine). Just kidding, but, I will put in one more plug for you to consider:

Woody 'stuff' is a pain, but, if you mow it a couple of times a year, you can forget about it in a couple of years. The roots don't store enough energy to make an unlimited number of tries. While I am old, and believe in better living through chemistry, if you keep it mowed and seeded, I don't think you will need to treat with any chemicals at all if you don't mind a little regrowth for a year or two.

Digging up shore line will probably get rid of the trees/bushes, but, it is terrible on the shore line and erosion will be a booger.

You pond is beautiful, if I picked the spots I think you want to maintain correctly, I still believe an offset flail to make it look as good as possible, and mulch up all the woody stuff. That said, if you can find a sickle robust enough to get through the first couple of cuts, you will be fine, it just wouldn't mulch up the stuff as well.

Please do let us know what you do:)

Best,

ed
 
  
  • Thread Starter
#140  
OP
D

deelowe

Bronze Member
Joined
May 21, 2021
Messages
68
Location
West Georgia
Tractor
Kubota Mx5400
Good idea's here (none as good as mine). Just kidding, but, I will put in one more plug for you to consider:

Woody 'stuff' is a pain, but, if you mow it a couple of times a year, you can forget about it in a couple of years. The roots don't store enough energy to make an unlimited number of tries. While I am old, and believe in better living through chemistry, if you keep it mowed and seeded, I don't think you will need to treat with any chemicals at all if you don't mind a little regrowth for a year or two.

Digging up shore line will probably get rid of the trees/bushes, but, it is terrible on the shore line and erosion will be a booger.

You pond is beautiful, if I picked the spots I think you want to maintain correctly, I still believe an offset flail to make it look as good as possible, and mulch up all the woody stuff. That said, if you can find a sickle robust enough to get through the first couple of cuts, you will be fine, it just wouldn't mulch up the stuff as well.

Please do let us know what you do:)

Best,

ed
Thanks! I think im going to try the flail and see how it goes. Will probably get a grapple first though. Wish me luck!
 

dirttoys

Platinum Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2021
Messages
515
Location
Ozarks
Tractor
ac 170 bobcat 773 tak 235
Thanks! I think im going to try the flail and see how it goes. Will probably get a grapple first though. Wish me luck!
Good luck, and please do keep us updated:)
 

VoyagernOK

Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2020
Messages
46
Tractor
Mahindra MPower 75P; JD 4210
Woody brush can be hard to control with 2,4-D and round-up can kill everything and leave the banks to erode into the pond. Garlon is what the road crews use around here. You can paint it on the stumps or spray it on. It won't kill grass but it will stay in the ground and can be taken up by the roots of other trees and kill them too. So if you have desirable trees nearby bee careful about spraying it. Painting the cut stump is safest. Read the label closely to avoid problems. It is triclopyr and there are generics available. Always read the label thoroughly. The advantage is that it will kill the shrub or tree and you won't have to worry about cutting it down next year.
Thanks for this post. We'd cut about 400 willow clumps (multiple stumps) off at the ground last summer and this year they are all sprouting like crazy. We have other trees around and didn't want to kill the grass so have been hesitant to spray round-up. Just ordered the triclopyr.
 

broadsword6

Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2016
Messages
35
Location
Lanark County, Ontario
Tractor
Branson 6640 and Branson 3510i
I hope one of your trees die.

...maybe an invasive species that you've been having trouble getting rid of.
Dang brother, what kind of forums are you used to? Death threats? geez.

Those are good points to bring up that haven't been yet. Except for maybe that one reply about the copper sulphate (?) in the now forever deadly crystal clear pond.
Sometimes we get pretty frustrated and just want the thing magically gone, and if not used smartly, chemicals are an easy quick fix with some bad consequences we don't find out about.
 

broadsword6

Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2016
Messages
35
Location
Lanark County, Ontario
Tractor
Branson 6640 and Branson 3510i
Fair comment. Irony often does no communicate well in writing. It lacks the verbal and body language cues for it to work. I'll have a stern word with myself about it over a gin. My point was that the use, or abhorrence of chemical control agents in land management can stir emotions which, in the current political climate, can lead to strident reactions. I was playing on that "schadenfreude" a little. Sorry if it did not come off very well.
About snakes. We really don't have any to speak of here, but water moccasins are certainly a good reason to manage riparian habitat.

Kind Regards
 
 
 
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