selector valve

[countrybumpkin]

Well after looking at the control valve I was thinking of getting I don't think will work for me, it's a open center, I think I need a closed center ( so it holds the cylinder were it is when the control valve is released) with power beyond correct? Also ArTrvlr your control knob looks great.

 

[6sunset6]

This valve is a selector valve. You still need a 4 way in front of it. The selector valve does not care whats in front of it. It just controls the oil delivery path to different cylinders. If you do not have a 4way remote valve this valve will not help you at all.

 

[ArTrvlr]

Well after looking at the control valve I was thinking of getting I don't think will work for me, it's a open center, I think I need a closed center ( so it holds the cylinder were it is when the control valve is released) with power beyond correct? Also ArTrvlr your control knob looks great.

Thanks bumpkin. I probably overdid it on the finish, although it is only spray can paint. It is pretty slick and may be hard to hold. Time will tell. If that proves to be a problem I may refinish it with something like wrinkle or crackle finish paint.

What control valve are you considering? Remember, what we are discussing here is a diverter, or selector valve, not a control valve.
jp

 

[6sunset6]

Moving on, Murphy was running rampant today. what could go wrong did.
First valve all mounted and all cables in place . Checking button function against valve function. No power to one of the coils. Turns out a missed a jumper in the gripper switch wiring. Dumb. That was an hour.
Then the big one. I went to install the tilt cylinder. The top hole was too small and the bottom holes too big. I think the diameters were reversed. Rather than going through the expense of shipping back and forth I just fixed it. Bushings for the bottom holes was easy, The top hole was something else. I have a set of adjustable reamers . The hole had to go
from .75 to .875 It took a long time because they are hand reamers. But it worked . Start on hoses tomorrow.

 

[kennyd]

Well after looking at the control valve I was thinking of getting I don't think will work for me, it's a open center, I think I need a closed center ( so it holds the cylinder were it is when the control valve is released) with power beyond correct? Also ArTrvlr your control knob looks great.

You will ALWAYS need OPEN CENTER valves with your tractor. And, as the others just said...This is NOT a valve, but rather a selector or diverter that goes inline after your existing valve.

 

[countrybumpkin]

I know the valve that they are using is a selector I had decided not to use this type and go with a complete control valve instead, like in my earlier post. As for the open or closed center I shouldn't have brought that up in this post, I don't want to take away from the thread, it's been very informative about the selector valve, I'll be keeping up with this one for sure.

 

[6sunset6]

It's Finished. Works perfect. I left the orifice in and used 1/4 diameter hoses, Even for the supply to the valve. Hard to believe but there are 5 functions on the back for the snow blower.
1. 3 point Factory
2. Top cylinder new selector C port check valve keeps it from dropping
Hard fittings 3/8 JIC
3. Tilt cylinder new selector B ports Cylinder has check valves built in hard fittings 3/8 JIC
4. Rotate chute Factory 4 way QD 1/2 highest flow possible
5. Tilt chute new selector A port priority QD 3/8

I do have a post hole digger, seldom used I got 3/8 JIC plugs and caps and will just disconnect hoses on the top cylinder to remove it. I could probably un pin it and lay it aside still connected but I did that once before and hit the valve handle by accident and bad things happened.

The other thing I might mention is that I use reusable ends and buy bulk hose. That way I can make the hoses exactly as I want and if they are not right I can make them over. Granted the fittings cost more and there is less of a choice of fittings but it works for me.
I will post a picture when I remember to take the camera out there.

 

[kennyd]

You used 1/4" hose for the IN, OUT, and PB connections? What is the flow rating for your machine?

 

[6sunset6]

7.2 GPM However there is no PB. Remember this is a selector valve. There is a restricting orifice .045 in the input port. So 1/4 hoses are fine for the whole thing. I have factory remotes with 1/2 QD so I just plugged the Selector supply and return into a pair of those. Then too the cylinders are not that big and I used the selector valve for the ones that don't move much.

I used the second factory remote for the one I will use a lot , the blower rotate and the grader blade rotate.

Standby for a new thread . I need to split a fair amoint of 20" oak. My 4 x 24 splitter can do it but it is really labor intensive and they are very heavy.
So what I want to do is mount a 5 x 24 on the bottom of a beam on a three point . with a 4 way wedge. Drop it over the piece and from the seat cycle the cylinder . Cycle time is slow but I don't care. after a 4 way split I can lift them into the bucket. I figure $600.
The other alternative is a lifter on mu splitter with a shelf around the wedge. I am not sure a 4" cylinder will do a 4 way though so it still labor intensive.

 

[kennyd]

7.2 GPM However there is no PB. Remember this is a selector valve.

I am stupid...I forgot it was a selector valve.