Setting wood fence posts

[trailbuilder]

We live in northern Michigan....up by lake Superior where frost depths are 3- 4 feet. I have not had good luck setting fence posts so they don't rot and stay stable. I have tried concrete from a ready mix truck and the forst grabs the edges of the top flange, I have tried portland and sand in the holes. I auger in the holes to 3 feet. Can you please advise what works well in this setting.

 

[BoFuller]

I would move to AZ.

Sorry, I have no clue. Someone should though.

 

[MicroPilot]

Rebuild the fence every spring? :confused2:

What do your neighbors do?

 

[ultrarunner]

What about this?

Rail Fencing - Woodguard

Comes with a 20 year warranty

 

[crash325]

Rebuild the fence every spring? :confused2:

What do your neighbors do?

Look at their fences and talk to them.

Just a thought. :2cents: Make sure your posts a well sealed, even if they are pressure treated, set as deep as possible, pack with a mixture of sand & dirt that is well packed.

 

[RickB]

We live in northern Michigan....up by lake Superior where frost depths are 3- 4 feet. I have not had good luck setting fence posts so they don't rot and stay stable. I have tried concrete from a ready mix truck and the forst grabs the edges of the top flange, I have tried portland and sand in the holes. I auger in the holes to 3 feet. Can you please advise what works well in this setting.

Rot has more to do with wood species and treatment than methods.
Frost goes deep here as well, a sound locust post set 3' in the ground and backfilled with native soil won't heave much at all unless the water table is high. A concrete collar around the post anywhere above frost level will jack the post out in short order.

 

[SpringHollow]

Use a hydraulic or pneumatic post pounder and go directly into the ground. Sinking into concrete is about the worst thing you can do because of rot and heave.

Ken

 

[Ken45101]

I can send you some of our yellow clay, it packs very well ;-)

I have heard that setting posts in concrete can cause them to rot faster by holding water. You need to make sure that the water can drain out the bottom (set the bottom in dirt and only use the concrete above the bottom but below the ground level? I'm not sure what the solution is.)

Is your problem heaving, or rotting?

Also, instead of the time and hassle of a concrete truck, you can just dump dry concrete mix in the hole and it will set over time from soil moisture.

Ken

 

[Gizmo2]

I am with RickB on this one, Up State NY here also. 25 year old fence http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/projects/146222d1258730980-board-fence-img_3949_1.jpg
Post number 5 http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/170379-fence-post-depth-question.html

What are you using for posts?

 

[Haoleguy]

Use a hydraulic or pneumatic post pounder and go directly into the ground. Sinking into concrete is about the worst thing you can do because of rot and heave.

Ken

+1 ........ Driving a post(locust or PT) to 42inches is the best you can do. Just got back from a fence building workshop in New Hampshire which included a demonstration of the King Hitter and Wheatheart drivers. Several VT and NH fence builders and farmers/ranchers on hand to confirm that driving posts keeps theirs put forever. I might suggest calling one of the knotted wire fence manufacturers(Bekaert or Stay-Tuff) as they would have a tech rep on hand to give specific info on successful residential and commercial posts set in your area...they have a vested interest to make sure their wire products perform well.

Links to
Bekaert ..... Bekaert Fence Products
Stay-Tuff ..... Stay Tuff provides a range of high tensile fixed knot wire fences to suit numerous applications