You're listing different things to sharpen, all of which require very different techniques for sharpening. I'd never allow any of my wood chisels near a grinder of ANY type. I only sharpen those on diamond stones, with a Veritas tool for establishing the angle. Mower blades are crude and subject to major abuse, so I sharpen them with a hand-held grinder (the blades on my big mower weigh fifteen pounds each, so it's easier to move the grinder than hold the blade). Compared to most sharpening jobs, I have to remove a LOT of metal sometimes, and life is short. I'll start with a grinding wheel to establish the edge and do crude balance and finish with a flap disk. For axes and hatchets, I've had reasonable success with my belt sander, but if there are serious nicks, I might clean it up with the bench grinder and a fine wheel to start with. I'll often finish with a diamond stone. Air tools with sanding disks are also handy, and run cooler. Always keep water handy for any power sharpening job and feel the temperature often.
Always true and dress your wheels, otherwise you're just trying to sharpen things by banging on them with a rock. It's also very useful having a good corner on a grinding tool, which you can only establish with dressing. Having a good tool rest you can adjust to the angle of the stone face is also extremely handy. The wheel grinder is best for sharpening drill bits, lathe tools and cleaning up METAL chisels ONLY (and punches), but it's a lot easier when they're electric, because it's a real test of skills do any precision grinding when your whole body is having to move to keep the stone going—unless you've got a kid to serve as the motor.