Shop Walls

[duffer]

Don't know if you've ever thought of this, but what about using cement board for the bottom 2-3'.

Solves the water issue, the fire issue, the ding issue. It's pretty strong. You can paint it, caulk the seams.

Just a suggestion. (might be a bad suggestion, but at some point all of the ones you don't pick will be bad too!):2cents:

 

[JK22]

Stumbled on this site looking for puck board. Lots of cool ideas (but not necessarily the cheapest route to go). Wall Protection Sheets and Planks

 

[Industrial Toys]

I too thought of cement board, but if you did damage it, you would have a job repairing it. Plus, mounting stuff to it isn't ideal.

 

[Wood_Butcher_Dav]

40 Gallons! Woa! I知 thinking about doing the same thing in my 40x50. Was going to try using an airless but did not expect to need that much. Wow. I guess I have my work cut out for me.

My ceiling took a lot of paint, painted over the exposed closed cell foam, and scissor trusses, the Graco sprayer was great at sucking the paint right out of the 5 gallon bucket.

 

[EddieWalker]

Hi,
I'm building a shop area and would like the bottom 2 feet of the walls to have durable wall covering. Drywall and peg board will go on the upper parts of the walls.
But I would like something durable on the bottom 2 feet to resist damage from rolling carts, tires, etc that may hit the walls.

I was thinking about plywood, MDF, 2x6's installed like shiplap, but without the lap.
Not a fan of OSB since there may be dampness on the concrete floor. MDF may have the same issue with dampness.

Any ideas for an inexpensive durable option?

Thanks,
Doug

If the keyword is "inexpensive" then OSB is always going to be your best choice. Rip a sheet in half and you can cover 16 linear feet for less then $10. Nothing else will even come close.

If appearance is a consideration, look into Smart Siding. It's a higher grade OSB then the normal construction stuff and the appearance side has a wood grain stamped into it that looks like T1-11 siding, but a lot nicer.

 

[KennyG]

I left my OSB unpainted because I know how much paint it sucks up and I'm OK with the looks. If I felt it had to be painted, I would have gone with a different option. Probably metal liner panels like I have on the ceiling.

 

[dodge man]

I went with OSB and painted it white. Looks? Fair to poor, it does suck up the paint. It is a shop though and good enough for me. Mine is also OSB every where, wall and ceiling.

 

[two_bit_score]

Hi,
I'm building a shop area and would like the bottom 2 feet of the walls to have durable wall covering. Drywall and peg board will go on the upper parts of the walls.
But I would like something durable on the bottom 2 feet to resist damage from rolling carts, tires, etc that may hit the walls.

I was thinking about plywood, MDF, 2x6's installed like shiplap, but without the lap.
Not a fan of OSB since there may be dampness on the concrete floor. MDF may have the same issue with dampness.

Any ideas for an inexpensive durable option?

Thanks,
Doug

You might consider MDO.

>>MDO is produced with a high-quality thermosetting resin-impregnated fiber surface bonded to one or both sides under heat and pressure to create an exterior-grade plywood panel. Specially selected veneer directly beneath the fiber overlay provides a smooth surface that is ideal for painting. MDO is manufactured with waterproof resins that meet or exceed all veneer-grade, adhesion, and construction requirements. Sign writers find MDO is ideal and the panels of choice for Exterior Signs.<<<

MDO Medium Density Overlay | Anderson Plywood



TBS

 

[JK22]

You might consider MDO.

>>MDO is produced with a high-quality thermosetting resin-impregnated fiber surface bonded to one or both sides under heat and pressure to create an exterior-grade plywood panel. Specially selected veneer directly beneath the fiber overlay provides a smooth surface that is ideal for painting. MDO is manufactured with waterproof resins that meet or exceed all veneer-grade, adhesion, and construction requirements. Sign writers find MDO is ideal and the panels of choice for Exterior Signs.<<<

MDO Medium Density Overlay | Anderson Plywood



TBS

Neat stuff, but at $48/sheet it must be injected with gold flake.

 

[s219]

I'd probably use OSB or T-111.

 

[lilranch2001]

I think when I ever get to finishing my shop, I will use moisture resistant drywall on the bottom 8' portion of the walls. And then use 4 x 8 sheets of 22 - 28 gauge galvanized sheets over them. I will pick the gauge when I see what the cost at the time is.
A little salty but it will hold up very well.

I worked in a shop with this type of finish and as much as I thought weld arc flash would be bad, it never was an issue.

 

[JK22]

I think when I ever get to finishing my shop, I will use moisture resistant drywall on the bottom 8' portion of the walls. And then use 4 x 8 sheets of 22 - 28 gauge galvanized sheets over them. I will pick the gauge when I see what the cost at the time is.
A little salty but it will hold up very well.

I worked in a shop with this type of finish and as much as I thought weld arc flash would be bad, it never was an issue.

Hmmm. I really like this idea. Quite a bit cheaper than diamond plate and close to the look and function I’m going for.

 

[lilranch2001]

if you do go this route, and you have wood construction ( I Have standard 2x6 wall studs 14' tall) and if you plan on making sparks, especially welding and or cutting, make sure make sure you protect the bottom plate with a sheet metal angle (or something) underneath the drywall, so no hot embers roll up and start the wood on fire.

:fiery:

 

[quicksandfarmer]

I've been thinking of doing something similar and I have been considering using Zip Board. It's supposed to be weather-resistant so I assume it would handle dampness. It's about $25 a sheet so it's more than OSB but still not ruinous. I don't know how well it takes paint. I'm also not sure which face I want to look at.

 

[JK22]

I've been thinking of doing something similar and I have been considering using Zip Board. It's supposed to be weather-resistant so I assume it would handle dampness. It's about $25 a sheet so it's more than OSB but still not ruinous. I don't know how well it takes paint. I'm also not sure which face I want to look at.

I’ve looked into this stuff. I think it’s basically Exposure 1 rated, same as OSB sheathing. It will stand up to some water but will eventually swell. And eventually is probably within 1 year.

 

[JK22]

if you do go this route, and you have wood construction ( I Have standard 2x6 wall studs 14' tall) and if you plan on making sparks, especially welding and or cutting, make sure make sure you protect the bottom plate with a sheet metal angle (or something) underneath the drywall, so no hot embers roll up and start the wood on fire.

:fiery:

Good point. Thanks.

 

[two_bit_score]

I'd probably use OSB or T-111.

Inside, painted on the bottom with no direct contact with the floor T-111 would be a very good choice.

 

[shootemup604]

Local rink was replacing the boards - got some pieces of this 1/4" plastic puckboard, turn the scuffed side to the wall, and install. White shiny very durable plastic.

 

[WM75Guy]

Hi,

Any ideas for an inexpensive durable option?

Thanks,
Doug

My definition of inexpensive is probably different from your definition. My Morton stables has 2"X8" tongue and groove with the bottom board being ground contact. It looks nice and has absorbed a lot of impact from 1500# horses hooves without any damage. I used Menard's as an example for pricing. You could use 20' sticks with the bottom treated and the 2 above it not treated. That would give you your 24" height and 20' of wall length for $100.

https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...nd-groove-treated/1111260/p-1444422142679.htm

https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...ellow-pine-lumber/1028887/p-1444422743797.htm

My walls are 8' tall but this gives you an idea of what it would look like.

 

[ray66v]

When I get that far, I'm going to buy 12"x12" porcelain tile, and do the bottom 4' of the walls with them.

HD has them for a buck a piece, all the time.