Sizing angle iron for ramps

[Snowman9000]

Does anyone here have ramps (not a mesh gate) made of angle iron in a ladder pattern? I'm trying to figure out what size angle iron it would have to be for loading a 3500-4000 lb CT onto a trailer. Say the ramps are 4' long and the trailer bed is 2' high.

I have a 16' utility trailer with non-attached angle iron ramps but they are WAY too stout. They probably can support 10,000 lbs. Which would be fine, except they are way too heavy when it comes to handling them. I'd like to weld up something easier to handle. Also mine have the rungs spaced too far apart when I want to load my garden tractor instead of my CT. And adding more rungs would make them heavier. I cover them with wood for the GT but the point is, I just want to make ramps that are handier for my usage.

 

[bw_wis]

I can't give you a specific answer, but I can tell you about the ramps I built.

Specs-My ramps have a solid 3/4" surface, are 23" wide, about 7' long to load at 20-24", and designed to be pushed together for use as a walk ramp. Plywood is not painted to provide smooth surface and good traction.

Capacity-I've had 5000+lbs on them. All four tractor tires at once.

Construction-3x2x1/4 angle for outside rail. (Want a lip for castered box I have). Inside rail is 2x1/4 flat with 1x1x1/4 angle welded 3/4" from top of 2" flat. Creating a lip for ply sit on. Top lip that sits on deck and bottom approach plate 5x1/4 flat. Top and bottom "rungs" are 1x1x1/4 ang facing up and welded to the 5" flat. Second rung from bottom is 1x1x1/4 angle facing down. The rest of the rungs are 1x1x1/8 angle facing down. The rungs are spaced about 7"-8" apart. Top and bottom rungs are braced at center with 1x1x? (1/8 or 1/4) to the next rung to take torque for lips. All of the angle iron is notched to fit. (Real pain is ***).

Weight-About 70lbs.

The biggest pain was finding and setting the angle for top plate. I use loosely tightened ratchet straps to hold the ramps to the trailer as a safety. And I added bolt on jacks to support the tail of trailer.

Sorry no pics. I'm out town for 2 weeks. I can send pics if you want them.

Brian

 

[Diamondpilot]

Mine are 5' long and made from 2x2x1/4" thick angel iron. They are heavy also. Its just part of doing business.

Chris

 

[TheKid]

I used 2" by 3/16 angle when I made the ramps for my trailer. But I'm only using them for my BX1500 so I don't know how they'd hold up to your heavier unit. I welded 3 rows of 1/2" re-bar lengthwise instead of adding a bunch of additional rungs.

With the rebar on, the small front tires on the BX don't bounce from rung to rung, and I can also roll a 2 wheeler or wheel barrow up and down without a problem. I also made mine 5" long do to the low clearance when I have the MMM on the tractor.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Keith we just bought a trailer with rebar like material. While it will make it smoother it mainly just adds weight but does not make it stronger because it just bends.

 

[medicshawn]

Here are some aluminum ones. Light but expensive.

Five Star Ramp Set — 10,000-Lb. Capacity | High Capacity Ramps | Northern Tool + Equipment

 

[George2615]

I'd go with Diamondpilot's size. 2"x2"x1/4" angle for the main frame of the ramp and 1 1/2"x 1 1/2"x 1/4" for cross braces.
3/16" thick would probably work but may bend after several uses. Better to go with thicker angle and have strong ramps than to worry about the failing when your driving on them.

 

[Snowman9000]

Here are some aluminum ones. Light but expensive.

Five Star Ramp Set 10,000-Lb. Capacity | High Capacity Ramps | Northern Tool + Equipment

Thanks, they look interesting. They also have a 2500 lb set and a 5000 lb set.
I wonder if a 3500 lb CT will bend the 2500 lb set when you realize that only one axle at a time is on them.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Thanks, they look interesting. They also have a 2500 lb set and a 5000 lb set.
I wonder if a 3500 lb CT will bend the 2500 lb set when you realize that only one axle at a time is on them.

I would not try it. Are your current ramps hinged or stored under the trailer? The reason I ask is I made a cradle to hold my ramps under the trailer. You simply pull a pin, slide them out, lift up the trailer end to the grove on the back of the trailer and that's it. My neighbor has the same type of trailer but the ramps have no storage compartment so he has to carry them around and put them in the bed of his truck. Its tough like you said.

Chris

 

[wkpoor]

Here are some aluminum ones. Light but expensive.

Five Star Ramp Set 10,000-Lb. Capacity | High Capacity Ramps | Northern Tool + Equipment

No way dude. Those ratings are pretty bogus. I had a set fold up on a very small car years ago. Might be OK for ATV's but thats about it.
BTW my BetterBuilt uses I think 3" channel with 3x3 angles welded about 6" OC between for ramps. Holds my 9K tractor without a quiver.

 

[deepNdirt]

mine are made from 2 1/2 channel iron with 2x2 angle cut between,

 

[garydc]

I built mine 5' long with 2" c channel & 1 1/2" x 1 1/2 " 1/4 " angle. I haven't loaded any thing much heavier than a car or my ck 20 but htey are standing up very well.

 

[Snowman9000]

I would not try it. Are your current ramps hinged or stored under the trailer? The reason I ask is I made a cradle to hold my ramps under the trailer. You simply pull a pin, slide them out, lift up the trailer end to the grove on the back of the trailer and that's it. My neighbor has the same type of trailer but the ramps have no storage compartment so he has to carry them around and put them in the bed of his truck. Its tough like you said.

Chris

My current ramps are just loose like your neighbor's. The weight is an issue but also the spacing gaps between the rungs.

I got the dimensions today. They are 5' long, with each side being a 2x3 x 1/4" angle. The rungs are 2x2 x 1/8" or 3/16" (I already forgot) angle spaced every 8". I think they would support 4000-5000 lbs each. The weakest spot is probably the angle at the top end that sets onto the trailer bracket.

I'm getting the idea of 2x2 x 1/4" angle sides and 1x1 angle rungs spaced closer than 8".

An alternative would be to make ramps that look like sections of mesh gate. Each one would need 3 pieces of square tubing running lengthwise, covered by mesh. One for each side and one right in the middle. With 3 tubes positioned that close together, they would not have to be huge, I don't think.

 

[PILOON]

Mine are 2 x 3 inch 5/16 angle with the 3" lip vertical by about 5 ft long and 12" wide.
Used 1/2 inch rebar to make spreaders and got lucky in that the recyclers had 12" wide X 8ft strips Heavy duty expanded mesh that I welded for traction surface.
The ramps are about 5 ft long and easy to handle one by one but not the pair, so I'd guess 50-60 lbs each,
My tractor weighs about 3200 lbs or so and I get no deflection when driving onto the trailer.
I do, however need to place legs under the trailer as otherwise I can practically lift the truck rear end by the hitch.
I shaped my ramps so that I have a lip that hooks onto the trailer rear end. (don't want to have the romp slide off of the trailer when climbing in!)
Once the tractor is loaded I slide the ramps between the wheels.
In fact I have loaded my tractor into my 3/4 ton pickup many times as well (without implements or FEL)

 

[medicshawn]

Also found this site LOTS of ramps....

Loading Ramps, Hauling, Transport, & Skateboard Ramp Superstore - Discount Ramps.com

 

[tulenutn2o]

My flatbed has the king of all ramps. Way overkill, but will take anything.The set for my dump trailer are stout too, but they View attachment 162931

View attachment 162932

View attachment 162933

View attachment 162934did bend under a 12k load. Bend, not break.

 

[tulenutn2o]

Heres the set for the dump trailer.View attachment 162935

View attachment 162936 They are 7' long with spacing of angles at 7"

 

[Skyco]

Regarding spacing of the cross members- what I've never figured out is why every ramp set I've seen, my two sets included, have the corner of the angle iron UP. Seems if it was the other way there would be closer spacing and twice as many edges for traction..
I realize the corner may be a little stronger, perhaps important loading a steel tracked machine, but for rubber tired vehicles, the cross pieces aren't usually the weak spot..
IOW it should be V instead of /\

 

[Diamondpilot]

Regarding spacing of the cross members- what I've never figured out is why every ramp set I've seen, my two sets included, have the corner of the angle iron UP. Seems if it was the other way there would be closer spacing and twice as many edges for traction..
I realize the corner may be a little stronger, perhaps important loading a steel tracked machine, but for rubber tired vehicles, the cross pieces aren't usually the weak spot..
IOW it should be V instead of /\

Mine are the made with the V up. I have used both and not sure which is stronger but the V up gives better traction and a smoother ride in my opinion.

Only issue I could see is if the tires are muddy it will make a mess but I never load a dirty tractor so its been a non issue.

Chris

 

[tulenutn2o]

Good point on the direction of the V. My only guess is when they normally are stored underneath, they will not hold water and muck? Mine for the dump are stored on side- so made no difference there. hmmmm.......:confused2: