Snatch blocks

[trlong]

Boondox,

That's basically what I intend..."pull the butt end up [and maybe some across] the hill via come-a-long and snatch block...". The come-a-long will do it and I have some pretty stout "howser". Not sure the snatch block will take it... As sugessted, I'm going to try to get something like a shovel under the butt, uphill, and hope it helps keep it from driving into the hillside.

Usually, when I hang a tree like this, it only takes cutting off a section or two of the trunk before it drops, or can be easily dragged out of the tops. I was able to cut off one length but don't dare try it again as the next section I'd be cutting over my head and I can't jump far and fast enough to get out of it's way when it drops /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif. The hillside's not helping. Now the ground is frozen again, one way or another I'll bring that down tomorrow afternoon. I really want to get those poplar cleared out before Spring softens the ground up there (forrester says aspen but then they're poplar anyway).

I'll take pic's when it's cleared up. Or, of a broken snatch block...which ever comes 1st /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif.

Tom

 

[trlong]

Phil,

Good idea. Unfortunately, I can't move it with the cant hook, even with the assist of the 6' iron bar w/ fulcrum /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Tom

 

[1948berg]

Leaving high stumps does not make it safer to fell a tree, rather the opposite. When I read these posts it makes me a bit worried, a hang up tree is a very dangerous situation, and getting mad trying to get it down makes it even more dangerous. When you fell a tree, always have a "normal" stub, and use the felling lever : http://www.logosol.no/media/sawmill/accessories/felling_lever/xHighRes/felling_lever.jpg
Never rise the chain saw above your head! If the tree still is hanging on the stub, it is possible to cut a hole between the stub and the tree, then put a smaller log into the hole before you try to move the tree, if you are lucky, the tree will slide along the smaller log instead of going into the ground. Be careful, think twice, work slowly!

 

[trlong]

Gunnar,

Very good advise. Leaving high stumps is not "necessarily" safe. However, when standing facing the tree and one foot is more than 1' lower than the other (i.e. fairly steep slope), in snow, I'd rather be standing up and cutting at waist level than on my knees to cut near ground level. I could be way off here but, I figure that I can get out of the way a lot faster if I'm standing than if I'm cutting at ground level, on a slope, on my knees.

BTW: I did get that @#$@#$ Aspen down. It took three different trees as anchors for the snatch block to pull it with the come-a-long, 1st across the hill, then back across but further up the hill, then finally about 16' up the hill to where I could start taking 8' sections off from it.

Obviously, I need to learn more safe practices as my "safety chaps" got a test (see "Safety Forum"..."You Don't Use Chaps").

Tom

 

[John_Mc]

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Obviously, I need to learn more safe practices as my "safety chaps" got a test (see "Safety Forum"..."You Don't Use Chaps").)</font>

Some of the best chainsaw & tree felling training you can get is through a program called the "Game of Logging". I've been through levels 1 through 3 of their 4 courses, and have found all of them very valuable. One of the better organizations offering this training is right here in Vermont: Northeast Woodland Training. They offer it numerous times throughout the year. Their website has some descriptions of the classes, and a schedule of when/where they are being offered.

They cover basic chainsaw safety and maintenance, as well as handling progressively more difficult situations (and how to avoid getting into those situations in the first place) as you progress through the different levels. When I started working in our woods, I got some tips from a knowledgable neighbor. I soon realized that I needed more training if I was going to keep doing this and expected to be around to see my kids grow up. It's worked well for me, and I highly recommend it for novices and experts alike.

Drop me a note if you want more information.

John Mc