Snow plow cylinder diagram? Cushion Valve?
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Peter 315
Super Member
The mold- board?
Rustyiron
Super Member
Not so much the expense, but building the moldboard, tripp assy, and "A" frame......
and for the push plate, you mean the big plate on the ssqa? I'd do at least 1/4". Most of the plate is meaningless (in between the loaders ssqa mech. as long as you transfer any (pushing) load not bearing in that area to those points. On a plow a good heavy channel would do, but then you'll need a "high" point to lift from (chain) and that substantial rotational force will need to be dealt with. Better go 3/8":laughing:
Peter 315
Super Member
push plates mount the plow to the frame or bucket of vehicle
I will make post at the BIY forum with the complete design later on, not to use the hydralics forum for that. But for the ssqa I will use 1/4" yes with lots of bracing. The rotational force comes to play now that I am extending the plow further away for the 12" cylinder. I will check it out though, thanks!!
LD1
Epic Contributor
Ok I hear you. No thrying to reinvent the wheel though, I had no idea about tha breather. I have already made the design to fit a 6" cylinder so to not extend too much in front of the tractor.
View attachment 535217
Arrgg, I have to change it again??
If you have already designed around a 2x6....might need a slight re-design....but......should be able to make it work.
If you are strictly talking about torque around a point....or energy potential.....the 2x6 should be similar to either a 1.5x1 or 1.5x12.
pi*r squared.....
For the 2" cylinder that is 3.14
For the 1.5 that is 1.77
Multiply that by the stroke and you get ~ 18.5 for the 2x6, 17.7 for the 1.5x10, and 21+ for the 12" version.
THAT's a good reference for the potential energy of the cylinder.
The rest is simply the geometry of the design....and how you design the lever moments.
One of the benefits of the longer and smaller cylinder though.....is you are applying the force further from the pivot.....meaning you have less plow beyond the cylinder. And dont have to be built as heavy to compensate for the unsupported part....if you follow what I mean.
I too question why you arent starting with a truck plow.
Dont know where you are located, but around here, you can buy a truck plow in pretty darn good shape for $300-$400....then all you need is to adapt it to a SSQA plate.
Building from scratch...you are gonna have what....
$100 for a cutting edge delivered
$150+ for a pair of cylinders delivered
$300 in steel
$50 is hoses and fittings
$100 in trip springs and misc hardward
Then....
Who is gonna roll (or worse us a press break in stages) for your mold board?
Who is gonna machine the pins and bushings for the pivots to allow tripping?
Couple of days in the shop welding....
Just not worth it IMO when truck plows are so plentiful.....at least in my area,
I bought a meyer 7.5' poly plow. half worn cutting edge.....good cylinders....$200.
Took the forks off my SSQA frame to attach the lower pins just like it hooks to the truck.....and added a receiver to the top to accept the chain so it will still float. Works perfect....and was cheap. And meyer plows are a dime a dozen and simple to work on. And parts everywhere
Rustyiron
Super Member
I'm in Maine also and I bought 2 a few years ago from the next town over. A nice 9'6'' Diamond for $200, in the above pic about the valve, (very good shape but needed both cyls) and a Fisher EZ - Vee 9'6'' for $450, missing one cyl. This is not the best time of the year to buy a plow, but ya never know.
LD1
Epic Contributor
Yes, do your research. Used plows.are quite affordable most places. Even if needing a little work....will still be money ahead if you know what you are doing.
Not fond of the design because lack of float other than via the loader arms. And the loader arms add ALOT of weight when trying to actually float....and most times don't work well as the tractor tried to drive up over the plow. Ever try to float your loader bucket going forward....same scenario.
So unless you are plowing a flat lot.....or like adjusting the loader constantly.....design it with a chain lift like a truck
Not fond of the design because lack of float other than via the loader arms. And the loader arms add ALOT of weight when trying to actually float....and most times don't work well as the tractor tried to drive up over the plow. Ever try to float your loader bucket going forward....same scenario.
So unless you are plowing a flat lot.....or like adjusting the loader constantly.....design it with a chain lift like a truck
Winthrop Maine, Peter.
LD1 I really appreciate your input! I had not idea what was the chain lift. I watched some videos, I think I can easy make it. Thanks!!!!
About a used one, I cannot find anything less than $600. I do not know if it worth it since I still have to make the ssqa plate, and some push plates to attach it. It will save me labor, and I will have a better product but....
For the mold board I have not access to a roller or a brake. I was thinking of making it 3 angle (the cutting edge, a flat surface, and a top lip). I mean its not ideal, but the tractor has enough friction to push that anyway.
Right now I am plowing with the bucket in float position. Anything better than that will make me happy.
LD1 I really appreciate your input! I had not idea what was the chain lift. I watched some videos, I think I can easy make it. Thanks!!!!
About a used one, I cannot find anything less than $600. I do not know if it worth it since I still have to make the ssqa plate, and some push plates to attach it. It will save me labor, and I will have a better product but....
For the mold board I have not access to a roller or a brake. I was thinking of making it 3 angle (the cutting edge, a flat surface, and a top lip). I mean its not ideal, but the tractor has enough friction to push that anyway.
Right now I am plowing with the bucket in float position. Anything better than that will make me happy.
LD1
Epic Contributor
Not ideal time to buy a plow, but still hard to fathom none locally under $600.
Gotta look for plow only. No pump or wiring.
Around here, about any week of the year you can find 4 or ,5 in the $200 range
Gotta look for plow only. No pump or wiring.
Around here, about any week of the year you can find 4 or ,5 in the $200 range
George2615
Super Member
You can buy a ready made QA plate that has adjustable slides to fit the plow pins.
Amazon.com: Mophorn 3 Point Attachment Adapter for Skid Steer 47Inch Skid Loader Attachment Universal Skid Steer Adapter Plate Trailer Hitch Front Loader Case 3 Point Adapter Attachment (3 Point Attachment): Home Improvement
Once you get the cylinders off collapse the piston shaft to remove remaining fluid to check. Its probably going to be clean.
Amazon.com: Mophorn 3 Point Attachment Adapter for Skid Steer 47Inch Skid Loader Attachment Universal Skid Steer Adapter Plate Trailer Hitch Front Loader Case 3 Point Adapter Attachment (3 Point Attachment): Home Improvement
Once you get the cylinders off collapse the piston shaft to remove remaining fluid to check. Its probably going to be clean.
LD1
Epic Contributor
Yes it's a good idea to purge/flush cylinders.
Collapsing them won't purge it all, but will get most of it
Collapsing them won't purge it all, but will get most of it
