Snow tires?

[sqdqo]

Which type of tire works best for snow removal with a tractor. I have a New holland TN75DA with typical R1 tires that scate around on icey surfaces. Without adding chains is there a tire type that would do a better job? I know on industrial loaders a radial style is much prefered for traction. Is there a radial style for an AG tractor, or would a turf tire do a better job?

 

[Don87]

Any tires will 'skate' on ice.

I prefer turf tires as they suit my overall needs the best and it's easy to put 2 link ladder chains on them.

 

[schmism]

on ice, a turf may do better, but it will load up with snow so quickly that it becomes instantly useless on anything other than ice.

check out some screw in studs for your R1 lugs. cheepr than chains but will still add traction.

 

[RickB]

Any tires will 'skate' on ice.

I prefer turf tires as they suit my overall needs the best and it's easy to put 2 link ladder chains on them.

The important message here is to select tire style based on overall needs. Add chains if required.
The investment to swap from R-1's to R-4's or R-3's in a misguided attempt to improve winter traction without the use of chains will result in disappointent and a wallet several thousand dollars lighter.

 

[MrPete]

I have a MX 5100 with R4's. They work pretty good without chains but it's better with chains. I also have a BX 2660 with a snowblower with turf tires. It works great with no chains needed. I haven't gotten stuck with it yet. With that said I will probably need chains this year. lol

 

[Don87]

I have a MX 5100 with R4's. They work pretty good without chains but it's better with chains. I also have a BX 2660 with a snowblower with turf tires. It works great with no chains needed. I haven't gotten stuck with it yet. With that said I will probably need chains this year. lol

Yep...........you done it now

I got mine stuck during the 'Halloween Snowstorm' we got here. Had to pull it out with the Dodge. I usually get stuck at least once every year............Even with tire chains and Rimguard in the tires.

 

[Don87]

To the OP, as to your question of 'winter tires'.........HDAP tires are supposed to be the best( I haven't used them).

As RickB said though, till you buy rims and tires, you are going to have a bunch of money tied up in it.

 

[schmism]

To the OP, as to your question of 'winter tires'.........HDAP tires are supposed to be the best( I haven't used them).

what I dont think you relize is the tractor the OP listed, TN75, is a full blown small AG tractor.

they dont make HDAP lawn mower tires for 16.9-30. this is also why the OP doest like the idea of chains because chains for his size machine are like $500 a pair for the rear.

which is why i suggested screw in lugs for the R1 ribs which are like 4" thick if they arnt compleatly worn out. granted it takes about an hr a tire to install but could be done for a faction of the price of full chains.

 

[SweBota]

on ice, a turf may do better, but it will load up with snow so quickly that it becomes instantly useless on anything other than ice.
check out some screw in studs for your R1 lugs. cheepr than chains but will still add traction.

Well, a turf style tyre is MUCH better than Ags on hard icy surfaces, and the tendency to accumulate snow in the threads depends largely on the rubber compound used. As for all tyres in winter, the suitability is mainly dependent on the compound, keeping the tyre soft even in cold temperatures.

Around here, many snow contractors change to Nokian tyres for winter duty as chains are not wanted or allowed on paved surfaces.

Nokian TRI 2

It will never provide the same traction as chains, but if you spend 10 hours a day in the tractor, driving with chains on paved roads will soon make you extremely tired.

/Marcus

 

[sqdqo]

what I dont think you relize is the tractor the OP listed, TN75, is a full blown small AG tractor.

they dont make HDAP lawn mower tires for 16.9-30. this is also why the OP doest like the idea of chains because chains for his size machine are like $500 a pair for the rear.

which is why i suggested screw in lugs for the R1 ribs which are like 4" thick if they arnt compleatly worn out. granted it takes about an hr a tire to install but could be done for a faction of the price of full chains.

This is exactly what I have. The diameter of the R1's in the rear are so close to the fender that I don't know if chains would clear. Will the screw in studs stay in place? I have looked through the UDI Equipment site at the Maxigrip studs. They only show 2-3 studs per bar. Is this enough to provide better traction? Are there other stud manufacturers?

 

[Don87]

That tractor is just a tad larger than what I thought. :ashamed:

Can you widen the tire spacing?

The studs should work fine though, if you don't to mess with chains. I saw someone post on here once that the used 'sheet metal screws'( zip screws) for studs.

 

[flyingcow]

I have a 2009 TN75da. R-1's. It came with v-chains already on it. They will fit, but you need to keep them tight. I took them off part way thru the 1st winter, I do a little bit of running on the road so i was nervous about the clearance at 18mph.

I keep my FEL on when snowblowing. Helps with the front end weight.

 

[RickB]

Chains will fit a TN with 28" R-1's much better than a TN with 30" R-1's. No question about that. Price of tires anymore, I'd think carefully before poking a bunch of holes in the lugs for studs.

 

[tcreeley]

I have ag tires on my TC30. They work well. The rear tires are loaded. I plow all winter. I used to have a '48 Farmall cub with wheel weights all around. I put chains on it- and left them on all year. I like chains- just don't need them on the TC30.

 

[IndyIan]

This is exactly what I have. The diameter of the R1's in the rear are so close to the fender that I don't know if chains would clear. Will the screw in studs stay in place? I have looked through the UDI Equipment site at the Maxigrip studs. They only show 2-3 studs per bar. Is this enough to provide better traction? Are there other stud manufacturers?

I did a 1 then 2 hex head screw pattern on my R1s. It's way better than no studs but I wouldn't tow a full bale wagon down an icy hill. I had a 10% grade pure sheet of ice and the tractor can drive on that easily, even pull my car up it with no trouble. if your not running roads at all you might just want to try normal screws. They are cheap and I think I'll get a few years out of them.