Starting issues YM2000

[284 International]

Does the tractor still puff smoke when it's cranking over? I don't see how 100 psi could be igniting the fuel; zero clearly can't. Pull the exhaust manifold (4 bolts) and crank it, if it still smokes. See if the cylinder showing compression is the only one smoking or not. Your gauge may be malfunctioning (or leaking?). How does the sound and behavior of the engine change when you crank it with the compression release activated versus not activated?

If it's clearly and drastically different, I'd be looking at the gauge or connections. However, unfortunately, given all your efforts with a heat gun and such, I'm starting to suspect that there's something internally wrong. The others will likely disagree, and I'm not an expert: If it it were mine, I would give it a sniff of ether and see if it tries to fire. If not, I'd be pulling the head. From what you've said, though, it's not as if I would have much to lose.

I hope you're able to figure out this conundrum.

 

[normde2001]

If you actually have a verified "0" psi compression in the back cylinder, it should really be a no-brainer. Is the piston moving up and down, (broken rod)? I have emphysema and can still blow 2 psi on a meter, you need about 500. Can you feel any compression in the injector hole?

 

[YM200inGA]

I haven't attempted to see if I can physically feel compression with a injector out.

One of the main reasons I was pretty sure the compression was good was because of the change between when the decomp was open and closed. It spins up really fast when open and then will slow down and get a much deeper tone when I close the decomp.

Also after messing with the heat gun for awhile the smoke coming out the exhaust seemed to get much thicker.

I will try pulling the exhaust tomorrow.

 

[Neat 1500]

i think your adapter was leaking at the injector hole.you have more than 100 in one and 0 in the other from what i have gathered. i think you need to go back to the start. fuel/air/compression in the required doses = fire! one of these is a bit off so methodically these need to be re-assessed.

 

[clemsonfor]

Does your 2000 have thermpstart. If so you will have a 1/8" or so hose to the intake manifold under the air cleaner and have a little 1 once bottle on the front side, top, of the engine infront of the air cleaner. This is used to start a cold engine. I dont think it will do any better than your heat gun though but just a thought. You turn the key to the left to warm it up and then to the right immediatly after to crank. You can searh posts here as it has been talked about.

Forgive me if i dont reread all this again, but you are sure you have fuel and are timed right?

 

[YM200inGA]

I don't have a thermostart on my tractor, I think that is why the other guys recommended the heat gun. Also no I am not sure how to set the timing, however I did verify the both injectors are getting fuel and the spay patterns look ok.

 

[clemsonfor]

You should find someone willing to work on JD as they will ahve the same motor in the similar sized tractor from the early 80s or late 70s. You may not be able to take it to a jd dealer as they maynot touch it, but if someone can work on an older JD they can work on this as some of the compact JDs from the 80s were built by yanmar, not just the engines.

 

[Car Doc]

i think your adapter was leaking at the injector hole.you have more than 100 in one and 0 in the other from what i have gathered. i think you need to go back to the start. fuel/air/compression in the required doses = fire! one of these is a bit off so methodically these need to be re-assessed.

I agree this engine would have between 400 and 600 psi, on a good day and add a little fuel possibly even more.

It wouldn't dream of firing with 100psi gas engines wont even run well with that low either so there must be a leak at the comp gage or that engine has sealing problems internally so good luck!.

I can tell you how to determine where the leak is --- once you get an adapter to fit properly just back the valves off and air the cylinder up with shop air but keep hands away from the fan and belts and make sure its in neutral it will lurch when the piston is shoved to the bottom of the cyl...air will either be coming out the intake or exhaust or the crankcase take it from there hth.

 

[YM200inGA]

Ok so I got the exhaust manifold off and I also got a video see what you guys think.

YouTube - 20110320_201551.mpg

 

[winston1]

Ok so I got the exhaust manifold off and I also got a video see what you guys think.

YouTube - 20110320_201551.mpg

Nice video. I think you have more than 0 or 100 psi compression. I doubt the engine is turning over fast enough to crank, however, the video might be misleading. Would I be correct that it probably spins faster with compression release pulled? When you tried pull starting did you hold the compression release until engine was spinning good?