Starting Problems - 2005 New Holland TC35A

[HotDogNewHolland]

LouNY
I tried your suggestions and when I touched the light tester to the small terminal and turn the key to start it I got a very low light. When I touched the big terminal I got a super bright light. So, per your post I’m not getting enough power to the solenoid.
Now what?
Would a bad or dirty ignition switch cause that?

 

[Jerry/MT]

To me a click but no crank would be a starting relay or a starter solenoid.

+1 or bad battery terminal connections or a bad chasis ground. Could also be a bad key switch.

 

[LouNY]

Some where in the starting loop a safety or permissive switch or relay is not making good contact.
It could be in the switch or any place in the system.
New Holland TC35 - 3 CYL COMPACT TRACTOR(01/00 - 12/03) Parts

items; #7, 9, 14, and 17 are all relays.
When you switch your key on if you can put your fingers on the relays when you turn the switch from run to start you may be able to feel
the relay activate you could swap the one that feels like it's getting energized with another of the same configuration.

 

[thclimer]

Attached is the electrical schematic to help you understand the components of the starting circuit.

Additionally, refer to post #47 on this link as it described a common issue with starting circuit and a solution of installing a relay to provide a direct power source to the stating rely which sounds like your problem:

TC33D wont start

Okay, so I checked both cables for good conductivity, and finally just cleaned both the battery terminals and the lead connectors very thoroughly. Put the battery charger to the terminals and everything worked great. Final theory: Just a poor connection between cables and battery, resulting in...

www.tractorbynet.com

The ignition switches can also be problematic, here is a post on replacing it with a more robust NAPA switch:

TC33D Glow Plug Problem Fixed

Well, I finally got around to replacing my ignition switch and in the process I believe I found my intermittent glow plug problem (with turning the ignition switch to the first position the glow plugs would not power up). Due to previous starting issues I had removed and disassemble the OEM...

www.tractorbynet.com

Good luck and let us know what you find out.

 

[kirkawilson]

See postin #10 here:

TC40DA electric (over hydraulic?) anomaly. No joystick functions!

I have an FEL mounted brush cutter (Lane Shark — “LS”) that intermittently began losing power, I.e., would randomly stop spinning. it progressed to the point that it would not “power up” at all. The LS is electrically connected to the same circuit as the hydraulic system for my root grapple...

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[Jagnut]

I ran into a no start situation last fall with my TC30.
After checking everything accessible, I came to the conclusion that the problem probably was in the black box mounted on the firewall with the writing "SAFETY CONTROLLER" on it. I could not find any dealer that could diagnose that black box, and I didn't feel like shelling out 450 dollars for a new one, not knowing for sure if that was the problem.
So I removed the black box, it is about the size of a deck of cards. I took out the keyed switch on the dash, figured out which terminal had power with the different key positions, and started some creative wiring. Connected a wire directly from the switch to the fuel shut off on the injection pump. Then I connected another wire directly from the switch to the starter relay, and now the tractor works like an old fashioned tractor without all the government mandated safety crap. The only thing that does not work, is the dash light for the glow plugs. I don't know if the time limiter in the glow plug circuit still works, but I am lucid enough to limit the time for glow plugs ON myself, and we got through the winter blowing snow and keeping my driveway open.

 

[WM75Guy]

The safety switches will allow it to turn over. They stop the fuel solenoid from opening so the tractor turns over but does not start. A common problem was internal corrosion at the factory battery terminals where they were crimped. It allows voltage to pass but not amperage, so a voltmeter shows everything OK but not enough amps flow to allow it to start. To check if that is an issue you can bypass the cables with a pair of jumper cables. Or just replace them with new ones from the auto parts store. At the age of the tractor new ones won't hurt. Clean the connections at the same time.

 

[WM75Guy]

This is why I recommend cables from the auto parts store instead of NH cables. The #14 is the ground cable, #15 is the positive cable.

 

[tmeric7]

With all safety switches set (or even by-passed) when I turn the key I hear a click and it won't turn over.

It would help to be clear about what click you hear. Is it (A) a "fainter" click of the ignition relays under the right cowl? Or is (B) a louder "clunky" click of the starter solenoid attached to the starter?

If (A) my first suggestion would be to learn about the common starter relay problem that thclimer discusses. There is a lot of information on here about how to do that, especially in the thread he attahced.

If (B) then I would wonder about internal wear on the + battery cable running to the starter. You can try measuring the voltage at the starter (big terminal from the battery) vs. at the + connection of the battery with a multimeter while trying to start. If you get much lower voltage at the starter than the battery, replace the cable or the battery terminal of the cable, even if all looks well. Search on the boards and you'll find examples of a battery cable that "looked" good but wasn't. This is also what WM75Guy was getting at. Of course, if it's low at the battery too, take it somewhere that can test it (sorry to be the guy that states the obvious, but the thing's I've overlooked...)

I tried your suggestions and when I touched the light tester to the small terminal and turn the key to start it I got a very low light. When I touched the big terminal I got a super bright light. So, per your post I’m not getting enough power to the solenoid.
Now what?

Based on this, I would suspect you are only hearing the relay click, as in (A) above. Again, see the post from thclimer.

The ignition switch is always a possibility (a bit maligned on these units too), and you can search these boards on replacements. You can search under my name and will find a thread or two. I used a NAPA KS6600.

 

[950deerehunter]

I have had this problem on several tractors (especially older John Deeres). There seems to be to much voltage drop on the small wires in the loop to the starter solenoid. From where ever the ignition switch is getting it's power through the switch contacts then through the various safety contact switches then to the starter solenoid. There isn't enough voltage/power to pull the starter solenoid completely and engage the starter motor gear and make contact with the heavy duty switch at the back of the solenoid which connects the battery to the actual starter motor.

To remedy this put a small 40amp relay right at the starter "https://www.amazon.com/PACK-AMP-Wat...lja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1"
All the key switch has to do is pull this small relay which will power the starter solenoid. See attached diagram. What you want to do is remove the small trigger wire from the solenoid and connect it to pin #86(white wire). Ground pin #85(black) to block. Wire pin #87(blue) to small terminal of solenoid where you removed the key switch wire. Run a wire from the large battery terminal to pin # 30(red). Now when the key switch actuates the low power relay the solenoid is going to get full 12 volt power. Hope this is making sense and good luck.