Strange Nuts on Baler

[lacamo]

I need to remove a metal plate from the tongue of my MF 1734 round baler. It is held on by 8 carriage bolts, the heads on the inside and the threaded ends pointing out. Instead of normal hex nuts, the bolts are secured with cone shaped nuts which I have no idea how to remove. They were screwed on and tightened with some sort of tool. I'd like to get them off without using the sawzall. Any ideas?

Thanks.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

Do you have a picture?

 

[lacamo]

Too late tonight to take a photo, but will tomorrow. Called the servic dept at the dealer and he couldn't find these mystery nuts in the shop manual.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

I don't recall seeing them before which is why I was hoping to see a pic in hopes it would jar my own memory or at least maybe help me to give you a suggestion or two. So hopefully someone else can chime in with knowledge or else I will wait for you to post a pic when you can.

 

[JoeL4330]

Does it look something like either of these "security" nuts ?

 

[lacamo]

Like the one on the left, about 1" in length, but without the notch -- nothing at all to grab onto. Will post a picture tomorrow. Thanks

 

[kebo]

If you can get to them pretty easily with a grinder, you might try grinding two flat spots on each cone (opposite sides of course) and then try and get a vice grip or adjustable wrench on them to loosen. You could always replace with regular hex nuts, of course. Just a thought....

 

[lacamo]

Here are some photos: side view, top view and how the nut & carriage bolt look together. As you can see, there's nothing to grab onto: there must be a special tool to do this...
Thanks

 

[lacamo]

If all else fails, I will remove them one way or another. Just wanted to keep things original if possible.

 

[cowski]

just weld them to the tongue or weld a nut on them.i have had to this many times on odd shaped bolts and nuts.

 

[Danno1]

.


It looks like some kind of rivet to me.


.

 

[Timm250]

That type of nut has a driver attached to it for installation. When the torque for the nut gets to the correct range the driver will break off leaving a tamper resistant nut. They can be cut off with a grinder & replaced. I would replace it using a locking nut to make sure that it doesn't back off.

 

[leonz]

I need to remove a metal plate from the tongue of my MF 1734 round baler. It is held on by 8 carriage bolts, the heads on the inside and the threaded ends pointing out. Instead of normal hex nuts, the bolts are secured with cone shaped nuts which I have no idea how to remove. They were screwed on and tightened with some sort of tool. I'd like to get them off without using the sawzall. Any ideas?

Thanks.

======================================================================================================================================================



You are the proud owner of
Tamper Poof locking nuts
which are not designed to
come off via vandalism or
vibration.


The quickest way is to simply
torch them as the carriage bolts
will be sacrificed in any case due
to the cutting threads engineered
into these lock nuts to assure they
lock in place with the recommended
torque in foot pounds using a nut
runner with the special socket for this
lock nut.

You will need new carriage bolts
in any case as they wil be damaged.

You can replace these vandalism
and vibration proof nuts with
flat washers and nylock nuts or
Red Loctite using standard S.A.E.,
nuts.

Either fastener will work well for this
as double nutting is not reliable unless
some form of locktite is used.



_________________________________________________________________
Once you go flail you never go back:thumbsup::licking::drool:

 

[Robert_in_NY]

Here are some photos: side view, top view and how the nut & carriage bolt look together. As you can see, there's nothing to grab onto: there must be a special tool to do this...
Thanks

Thats the first time I have ever seen those on a farm implement. I agree with the others, grind/cut them off and replace them with a standard bolt of the appropriate strength.

Was there a reason the OEM choose this style of nut for a farm implement? Was it common for people to unbolt the part and steal it? I've played with a lot of equipment and haven't seen this before so if nothing else thanks for sharing, if I run into them now I will know exactly what they are and cuss out the engineer who designed it that way at that time :laughing:

 

[hosspuller]

It's hard to tell from the photo ... But I would say the fasteners are either Huck bolts or Magna-grip lockbolts. Either type... the only way to remove them is to destroy them. Grind or torch them off.

It must have been easier or quicker than welding.

 

[herringchoker]

It's hard to tell from the photo ... But I would say the fasteners are either Huck bolts or Magna-grip lockbolts. Either type... the only way to remove them is to destroy them. Grind or torch them off.

It must have been easier or quicker than welding.

I agree. Here's an example:
Introducing the BobTail

 

[Duids]

Hosspuller is correct. They are Huck pins and collars and the only way to remove them is with a torch or grinder. The grooves you can see if any are not threads they are grooves that each one makes a complete circle around the pin. The tool used to affix these are hydraulically operated. The tool is shaped similar to hand drill (lots heavier, depending on size, 1/4"-1" that I have used). The collar fits on the pin loosely with about 2.5" of the pin past the end of the collar and the tool is place over the collar and will grab hold of the pin and pull while squeezing the collar. The pin has a groove cut in it that should be just outside the collar. When the correct amount of pressure has been applied the end will break off.
Great fasteners if you don't plan on taking them apart because unlike a bolt the won't work loose.
The next time you are sitting at a RR crossing waiting for that darned ole train to get out of the way, look closely and you will see hundreds of these pins and collars.

David

 

[tommu56]

I'm another voter for the huckbolt.

 

[High Compression]

Those look like huck bolts. If so you can only torch them off.

 

[milkman636]

Those are Huck Bolts. http://huckfastening.com/lock-bolts/c6l-c120l.php

I remember using those at an iron works building frames for bulk hoppers back when I was fresh out of high school.

The collar is swaged on to the bolt by a hydraulic tool, not threaded.

The tool uses the end threads to pull the pin into the collar and compress. When the asssembly is fully compressed the part of the pin in the tool snaps off at a designed recess in the pin. They are much quicker to use in manufacturing than bolts, and more reliable.