Chains Straps or Chains (or is this too personal?)

Inspector507 · Aug 19, 2002

ary,
No worries here about "one upping" me. Life's too short to sweat the small stuff. /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif Those are nice as well. I just knew about the ones from Jeg's because they're local to me.

Phred · Aug 22, 2002

Gary,

If you use the ratchet binder with chains then you can get them very tight. Just as tight as that strap.

As one of the other guys mentioned the conventional binders that are tighneted with a cheater bar will also get them very tight. I just think the ratchet is safer since it can not flip open even in an accident.

I should clairfy my thoughts on the straps. A brand new strap is not the issue. However, after you use it a while it will get frayed a bit and thats what worries me.

I have some 10K binding straps but much prefer the use of chains since the chains will last far longer.

Fred

Gary_in_Indiana · Aug 23, 2002

Fred,

I don't doubt that ratchet binder will get your load tightened down well. I totally agree with you that frayed straps are not a good thing. I'm sure you agree with me that chipped, bent, cut or damaged chains aren't either.

I've had some straps for years without the first sign of fraying or wear on them. The key, as with most things, is to be careful with them and use them properly.

My straps come in contact with nothing other than at the hooks. I don't run them over or around anything. It's always a straight, untwisted line and I make certain the trailing end of the strap is lined up when I'm tightening the ratchet. I always secure any unwound trailing strap so it doessn't flap around.

I'm sure that if I'd started with chains I'd think them superior. I started with straps and love them, especially when I have to carry a pair to the back of my trailer and they're clean and LIGHT. ;o)

ScottAR · Aug 23, 2002

In the name of being helpful, I snagged this lovely tidbit on another board I frequent. Chain sizing:
"Strength of steel chain.
I looked up this information on the web. There are several grades (and prices) of chain. Below are a couple of common types and their respective maximum safe working strength. You would need a few good tie-downs to hold a D8 on the deck of a float if it decided it wanted to get away.

PROOF COIL CHAIN
Welded chain, made from basic steel. It is a general purpose chain for average lifting, pulling or restraining applications requiring neither a maximum of tensile or impact strength. Zinc, Self Colored or Hot Galvanized finishes.

PROOF COIL CHAIN
Trade Size Inches Working Load Limit Lbs.

3/16 750
1/4 1250
5/16 1900
3/8 2650
1/2 4500

HI-TEST STEEL CHAIN
Welded chain, made from a higher carbon content steel, with a good strength to weight ratio. It possesses a tensile strength far greater than basic steel chain and is highly resistant to abrasive or cutting action and normal wear.

HI-TEST STEEL CHAIN
Trade Size Inches Working Load Limit Lbs.

1/4 2600
5/16 3900
3/8 5400
1/2 9200 "

The way this info is applied is take the total weight of whatever your binding and divide by the rating of the chain. This number gives you how many chains to use. Hope this helps someone out.

RobS · Aug 23, 2002

Brent, I use some of each. If the hookup is conducive I'll lean toward chains as they do seem more solid. If I can't get a decent line without risking damage I'll use straps. I carry both in my trailer box and either is just as quick/easy to use.

The most important consideration is to "make your load one with your trailer" /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

One more thing... ratchet binders versus over-center binders; over-center chain binders depend on some stretch of the chain and/or compression of the load to work. I find they don't work well for short links to very solid objects (like a box blade sitting on the trailer deck). For those situations I use the ratchet binder as it will get as tight as you need and stay that way. I also carry a long pipe to "help" with the over-center binders /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

rstcso · Aug 23, 2002

Thanks again to all. I bought another chain and ratcheting binder. Also, someone mentioned using a firehose to run the chain through to protect the paint. While at Lowe's, I asked someone if they had something similar. Suprisingly, he showed me a flat 1 1/2" "discharge hose". I guess it's used for the output of a pump. Anyway, it's very durable and less than a dollar a foot. The only problem I could see with it, it's blue. It didn't come in green. I guess I'll have to deal with it /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif.

DocHeb · Aug 23, 2002

Also, someone mentioned using a firehose to run the chain through to protect the paint. 

I've used old bike inner-tubes to protect paint from chains. However, the chain doesn't dry out well unless it is hung vertically.

Phred · Aug 23, 2002

Gary,

I agree with you if you take very good care of the strap.
However, I must confess that I tend to chuck them into the back of the pickup tool box, and I am not as carefull with how I strap things down. Bottom line is that they fray over time.
Chains are much more tolerant of abuse.

Fred

Gary_in_Indiana · Aug 23, 2002

The most common chain I use is 3/8 grade 70. WLL on 3/8 grade 70 is 6,600 lbs. The straps I use are 5,000 lb. WLL. My trailer weighs 2,000+ so I'm not hauling any more than 5,000 lbs. anyhow. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif With four tie down points of 5,000 WLL each I think I'll be OK.

I have some heavier chains up to 1/2 grade 80 with an 11,300 lb. WLL but reserve those for pulling something out of the mud or snow. Something someone else got stuck, of course. /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif

Gary_in_Indiana · Aug 23, 2002

Fred,

I agree with you wholeheartedly. I tend to be rather **** about caring for my straps so for me they work out great. I have some pretty old straps that look pretty new still with no real evidence of wear. I like the infinite adjustments. I also appreciate the cleanliness and light weight of them as many times I'm not dressed to handle dirty and rusty chains (and, as I said before, those things are HEAVY! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif