Stumpgrinder direction

/ Stumpgrinder direction #41  
First, can someone tell me the difference between the stumpgrinder and wheel trencher. I need a stump grinder bad and now I am confused which would be a better purchase.

Also, JJ, Are those the actual teeth?

Carl
 
/ Stumpgrinder direction #42  
Bob,

Did you say that you had a metal lathe. If you use carbide cutters, they will have a similar rake. I am thinking the rake is about 75 degrees. When you sharpen a drill bit, you always take some off the back. The leading edge is doing the cutting.
 
/ Stumpgrinder direction #43  
J_J said:
Bob,

Did you say that you had a metal lathe. If you use carbide cutters, they will have a similar rake. I am thinking the rake is about 75 degrees. When you sharpen a drill bit, you always take some off the back. The leading edge is doing the cutting.

J_J, no metal lathe, but a milling machine. I have never sharped the bits and don't know how. I should probably look for a tutorial.
 
/ Stumpgrinder direction #44  
woodlandfarms said:
First, can someone tell me the difference between the stumpgrinder and wheel trencher. I need a stump grinder bad and now I am confused which would be a better purchase.

Also, JJ, Are those the actual teeth?

Carl


That tooth is not like mine, but they all have a flat or cupped side, and the raked side. I am not sure if the stump grinder for your 1850 has replaceable teeth, If it does, that is good. I am pretty sure that the teeth for the trencher is fixed.

Stump grinder 22 in wheel will dig a 10 in trench cost $1900

Trencher 26 in wheel will dig a 12 in tench cost $2300


It depends what you will be doing most.
 
/ Stumpgrinder direction #46  
woodlandfarms said:
Taking out stumps. Some over 50" wide.... Any thoughts on this upcoming fiasco?


Carl,

Sounds like you need a large track hoe.
 
/ Stumpgrinder direction #47  
Like this? It took him about 3 hours to remove 6 large (over 40") stumps. I jest a bit about stump size but I have plenty of 20's that need to go....

This was done for us for free, but I know the next time he comes up it is going to cost. Lets say $125 per hour for an 8 hour day... 1K for his services and not all my stumps gone. Would love to just have a grinder...

Carl
 

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/ Stumpgrinder direction #48  
Dear Carl,

Has anyone tried the hydraulic screw stump buster/pullers?

Sometimes renting or hiring out is the sensible solution.

We rented a commercial chipper over Christmas and in less than two hours reduced a 50' long, 8' high, 12' wide pile of trimmings to next to nothing. It ate 6" diameter logs with barely a slow down. Mind you, I was eyeing it for use on the PT, as it was hydraulically driven. However, the darn thing was so heavy that it nearly tipped the PT twice while trying to move it up a slope on muddy ground. Let's just say that it went to h*** in a handbasket pretty quickly, before I got out the dually and chains and towed everyone to safety. (PT under power, pushing, truck pulling.) The chipper had a hitch clamp that allowed it to apply a lot of torque to the PT at a very low tilt.

In my book, stump pulling/grinding about as gnarly a job as they get. Stumps are where brute force and mass can really win the day. Dozer, backhoe, etc. Even a moderate sized backhoe can snap most of the roots first, and then wrench the stump out.
Having said that, there are a bunch of old tricks out there on how to use a winch, a lever, and chain to remove stumps- but it is still tough, dangerous work. Stump pulling kills a bunch of farmers every year who pull too high, or make the mistake of adjusting their 3 point hitch while pulling.

Have you looked at surplus logging equipment? Then there is always ebay... I have seen some nice army surplus tow trucks on ebay that would get the job done- if you can drive to your stumps.

All the best,

Peter

woodlandfarms said:
Like this? It took him about 3 hours to remove 6 large (over 40") stumps. I jest a bit about stump size but I have plenty of 20's that need to go....

This was done for us for free, but I know the next time he comes up it is going to cost. Lets say $125 per hour for an 8 hour day... 1K for his services and not all my stumps gone. Would love to just have a grinder...

Carl
 
/ Stumpgrinder direction #49  
woodlandfarms said:
Like this? It took him about 3 hours to remove 6 large (over 40") stumps. I jest a bit about stump size but I have plenty of 20's that need to go....

This was done for us for free, but I know the next time he comes up it is going to cost. Lets say $125 per hour for an 8 hour day... 1K for his services and not all my stumps gone. Would love to just have a grinder...

Carl

Carl,

If you have trees to remove, you should just let the track hoe push the tree over, and the stumps come out with the trees, however, if you already have the stumps. Dozer or track hoe is the way to go.
If you have the time, and a good stump grinder with sharp teeth, it is almost fun to be doing such work. There is a learning curve in there somewhere, and the more you grind, the getter you get .

If the teeth are replaceable on PT's stump grinder, you can keep them sharpened, or replace them, or have them sharpened by a professional. You can also change the style of the teeth you have. They make a cup style that you just rotate up to 4 times, before it needs sharpened.
 
/ Stumpgrinder direction #51  
With only 1200lbs of lift a chipper is an interesting conversation. I am thinking about buying one of those Chinese versions and hooking a hydraulic motor up to it. A pro system is gobbled up around here, even with all the logging going on. Burning is allowed so not a lot of systems to be had.

Yeah, that stump grinder is cool. Out of my price range but cool as all heck. We have stumps left over from logging. That is the large ones. We are taking down 10 and 12" trees on occassion...

Carl
 
/ Stumpgrinder direction #52  
J_J said:
Carl,
How about something like this.
Wow that seemed to carve up that stump pretty fast. How does the PT version compare to that? Anybody got a video of their PT in action?

Notice the Grind Zero Turn needs to reverse their motor too? :D:D:D
 
/ Stumpgrinder direction #54  
It depends on what attachments you have or will have. Not all of the PT motors can be reversed. If all of yours can be reversed, you can reroute your PTO hoses and put it on/adjacent to your dashboard, and then switch the whole thing, but do remember that when you do, your input becomes your output.

If you have both reversible and non-reversible attachments, you will need to put it on the attachment itself.

e.g. Terry mentioned that my tiller motor is not reversible, although he said that some of the older ones are. YMMV.

All the best,

Peter


woodlandfarms said:
So, where do you put these reversers on the PT?
 
/ Stumpgrinder direction #55  
woodlandfarms said:
So, where do you put these reversers on the PT?


If you have the ability, you can replace the one way PTO valve with a two way electric valve. If not, then you could mount an electric valve on one of the lifting arms, and take the output from the PTO valve and route it to the new 2 way electric valve. When you want forward direction, activate the normal PTO switch, and then activate the fwd switch on the reversible valve. The new switch would have a forward position, and a reverse position. I posted a manual valve in an earlier post. but the electric valve would work quite well.
 
/ Stumpgrinder direction #56  
JJ-

Wouldn't the valve have to be an electronic 4 way valve to switch both the pressure and the return lines simultaneously, downstream of the existing PTO solenoid?

All the best,

Peter


J_J said:
If you have the ability, you can replace the one way PTO valve with a two way electric valve. If not, then you could mount an electric valve on one of the lifting arms, and take the output from the PTO valve and route it to the new 2 way electric valve. When you want forward direction, activate the normal PTO switch, and then activate the fwd switch on the reversible valve. The new switch would have a forward position, and a reverse position. I posted a manual valve in an earlier post. but the electric valve would work quite well.
 
/ Stumpgrinder direction #57  
ponytug said:
JJ-

Wouldn't the valve have to be an electronic 4 way valve to switch both the pressure and the return lines simultaneously, downstream of the existing PTO solenoid?

All the best,

Peter

Yes, you are right, the picture below is similar to a valve that could be used.

I was referring to a two way valve as forward and reverse. The valve shown is a motor control valve, open center. The valve would have to match the output of your PTO. The label on the switch would be fwd, and rev. or an arrow to show direction. Post hole diggers could use something like this, if jammed, just flip the switch and reverse direction.



Surplus Center Item Detail
 
/ Stumpgrinder direction #59  
Here is a new type cutting blade with lots of teeth. The company says that it is 50 % better than the standard cutting wheel.
 

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