Stumpgrinder direction

[FOURTEEN]

"Fourteen, how well does the stump grinder trench?"

Quite well! I dug several hundred feet of trench ~8" x ~8" to separate the lawn from the gravel driveways and gardens. I then filled the trench with crushed stone or mulch to ****** intrusion.



"How deep?"

The blade will cut a slot an inch or two wide by 6" deep, or deeper but wider.



"I am wanting to lay outdoor romex and water lines 4"-8" below grade over several hundred feet."

That would work, but only use a Ground Fault protected circuit! Remember to protect water lines from frost!



"Was it difficult to reverse the blade?"

Not at all! Exchanging the hose ends is easy enough, but use an air impact wrench, (like they use to chance tires), to loosen the bolts, flip the blade over, and retighten the bolts. You could use some Loc-Tite, if you want, but just the impact wrench should do it!

Use whatever you have handy to fashion a front/top guard. Flexible is best, but not so big that you can't see the working edge of the blade.

Those carbide teeth will slowly cut about anything: wood, dirt, limestone, sandstone, soft concrete, soft steel, underground wiring, water lines, roots, worms, etc! Carbide is what is used for masonary drill bits! My teeth are as good as new, and on the stump grinder too!!


Have fun!

 

[FOURTEEN]

"The first stump I ground resulted in chips and dirt flying back at the PT and me in a shower that filled the entire front area, the seat, the foot wells, and even the canopy! My clothes and face were pelted and covered with dirt and chips!!"

Even before adding the top/front shield, notice how the chips have been thrown and piled in front of the stump and blade, and how clean the PT and even the top of the stump are!!

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[RegL]

Even before adding the top/front shield, notice how the chips have been thrown and piled in front of the stump and blade, and how clean the PT and even the top of the stump are!!

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Almost looks like you could place your light material out there in front and fill it up with the grinder. Less raking. I'm all for that.

 

[Marks481]

Since the stump grinder seems to so such a fine job, why would there be any reason to buy a wheel trencher? I guess the wheel trencher has a 24" vs. 18" blade, but it is $1700 vs. $1050, which seems alot og money for a little bit larger blade and a wheel.

Anybody have the chain trencher? How does it compare in speed to the wheel trencher? It seems to me that the belt trencher would be better for dealing with rocks, since it can pull them out of the hole (but maybe the wheel trencher would just cut them in half?).

 

[BobRip]

I have the chain trencher and stump grinder. The chain trencher's main advantage is width and depth of cut. I need to go 18 to 24 inches for power lines and at least 18 for water. The stump grinder will not do that. The chain trencher can get hung up on small rocks. There is a place that catches on about 1 inch rocks and I have to use a chisel and hammer to knock them out. If you want to bury drain pipe you need the chain trencher. I can cut a 100 foot trench 18 inches deep in about 30 minutes. Your rate will vary depending on soil, rocks, roots, etc. 1/2 inch roots are no problem, 2 inch roots take some time. Four inch roots, you should get out the wheel trencher and cut them with it.

 

[J_J]

Since the stump grinder seems to so such a fine job, why would there be any reason to buy a wheel trencher? I guess the wheel trencher has a 24" vs. 18" blade, but it is $1700 vs. $1050, which seems alot og money for a little bit larger blade and a wheel.

Anybody have the chain trencher? How does it compare in speed to the wheel trencher? It seems to me that the belt trencher would be better for dealing with rocks, since it can pull them out of the hole (but maybe the wheel trencher would just cut them in half?).

Hi Tim,


I have the chain trencher, and the wheeled trencher/stump grinder. They both work well, but the chain trencher is designed to dig a 4 or 6 in trench as deep as 36 in. In sandy soil it will move right along. The replacement chains are about $500, and the large sprocket is about $45. I need to replace mine now, as it hangs up often, it has worn through the rollers.


The 26 in wheeled trencher is faster, but only digs down to about 12 in, and 2 in wide, and will also grind through cement and asphalt. It will also grind stumps. I can not easily replace the teeth on my trencher as they are brazed on. I can still sharpen them until they are beyond service use.

I don't have the PT stump grinder, but it should also dig shallow trenches to about 8 or 9 in. and 2 in wide.

I would also surmise that the stump grinder teeth are more aggressive than the trenchers teeth. but will still get the job done.

You mentioned a belt trencher, mine is hydraulic , direct drive.

 

[RegL]

Hi Tim,


I have the chain trencher, and the wheeled trencher/stump grinder. They both work well, but the chain trencher is designed to dig a 4 or 6 in trench as deep as 36 in. In sandy soil it will move right along. The replacement chains are about $500, and the large sprocket is about $45. I need to replace mine now, as it hangs up often, it has worn through the rollers.


The 26 in wheeled trencher is faster, but only digs down to about 12 in, and 2 in wide, and will also grind through cement and asphalt. It will also grind stumps. I can not easily replace the teeth on my trencher as they are brazed on. I can still sharpen them until they are beyond service use.

I don't have the PT stump grinder, but it should also dig shallow trenches to about 8 or 9 in. and 2 in wide.

I would also surmise that the stump grinder teeth are more aggressive than the trenchers teeth. but will still get the job done.

You mentioned a belt trencher, mine is hydraulic , direct drive.

Hi JJ,
What do you use to sharpen the teeth on the wheel trencher? Can you use a diamond wheel on an angle grinder or something like that?

 

[J_J]

Hi JJ,
What do you use to sharpen the teeth on the wheel trencher? Can you use a diamond wheel on an angle grinder or something like that?

Yes, you can use a diamond sharpener on the carbide teeth, but it is not that simple. Never sharpen the flat surface. Maintain the same back angle on the carbide cutter. Perhaps a Dremel tool with a diamond sharpener.
A 4 in grinder with a diamond wheel might work if you are steady and use a light touch.

A green silicon carbide stone might work.

 

[BobRip]

Yes, you can use a diamond sharpener on the carbide teeth, but it is not that simple. Never sharpen the flat surface. Maintain the same back angle on the carbide cutter. Perhaps a Dremel tool with a diamond sharpener.
A 4 in grinder with a diamond wheel might work if you are steady and use a light touch.

A green silicon carbide stone might work.

Exactly what do you sharpen? The sides of the teeth? How do you tell they are dull. Mines has a lot of hours on it and is probably due.

 

[J_J]

Exactly what do you sharpen? The sides of the teeth? How do you tell they are dull. Mines has a lot of hours on it and is probably due.

The flat side is the cutting edge, which comes to a point. . What you sharpen is the rake on the sides and back.