Tazewell Visit Suggestions

   / Tazewell Visit Suggestions #1  

ponytug

Super Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2007
Messages
6,543
Location
Bay Area, CA
Tractor
Power Trac PT1445
Hi Folks,
Since we have lots of experts here...

I'm planning on visiting the Power-Trac factory next week. What questions should I ask?
What are useful tips to try/have the service folks show me?
(Oh, that's the LEFT hand threaded hydraulic hose!)
Cool material handling techniques to try under supervision?

I'm a total novice to PTs, and hydraulically powered tractors in general. So, don't assume that it is obvious to me. (Growing up, our tractors were simple, and, for the most part, old.)

I promise a trip report. I'm planning to try out a 1445, given the feedback here about slope stability.

Thanks!
 
   / Tazewell Visit Suggestions #2  
ponytug said:
I promise a trip report. I'm planning to try out a 1445, given the feedback here about slope stability.
I look forward to your report on the 1445. We haven't heard much about the modern version. It is a little taller and heavier than the 1845, which is more set up for slope mowing. The 1445 lifts 600 lb. more and a foot higher. The 1845 is better on very steep slopes, particularly with the dual wheels. I have single wheels on my 1845, and the limit is invariably sliding, with little threat of turning over. I'd expect the 1445 to act similarly, with little tendency to tip before sliding, and little chance of tripping, although a bit more than the 1845. Unless you have a lot of steep stuff to mow, the 1445 should work great, particularly in bucket and fork functions.

My only suggestion is that you take a lot of time and drive more than one machine. Try to simulate as much of your own likely usage as you can. When I've been there, the Power Trac people haven't gotten impatient with me, and have both demonstrated and let me try a lot of attachments. Their demo area isn't extensive, but you can figure out how to try a lot of different functions, using a bit of grass and a pile of dirt.

Have fun: I've enjoyed each trip to Tazewell.
 
   / Tazewell Visit Suggestions #3  
Take the maintenance class. It is about 1/2 day. You should probably go down the night before, test drive and select the machine and attachments and then take the class. They do a good job on this class.
 
   / Tazewell Visit Suggestions #4  
I cant help you on the tour - but I can help you get a good meal. Take a drive West on 460 (Between Tazewell and Pounding Mill) and visit Couzes (sp) restaurant - If they are open you will get a great meal... Its a former dairy barn on your left.. It looks like a dive, but its worth the trip..

brian
 
   / Tazewell Visit Suggestions #5  
thatguy said:
I cant help you on the tour - but I can help you get a good meal. Take a drive West on 460 (Between Tazewell and Pounding Mill) and visit Couzes (sp) restaurant - If they are open you will get a great meal... Its a former dairy barn on your left.. It looks like a dive, but its worth the trip..

brian

I second that suggestion - great food and people.
If staying longer than one night you may want to stay at another motel.
PJ
 
   / Tazewell Visit Suggestions #6  
[What are useful tips to try/have the service folks show me?

Terry will show you where the bleeder port is when you have to change the hydraulic filter. Ask him if they are doing one on a machine and see if they would let you do it.. I know when he showed me the bleeder port i didn't write it down on the pad of paper i had because i thought i would remember the location. Needless to say, when the 50 hour mark came around. I had to call and ask him again where it was located. Also i would ask him to show you their test equipment(guages, flowmeters etc)and hook it up so you can use to troubleshoot hydraulic problems(psi and flow) and where you can purchase it. Hope this helps
 
   / Tazewell Visit Suggestions
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Thanks for the suggestions!

Charlie: Thanks for all your suggestions on and off line. I looked long and hard at the 1845. Ultimately, it comes down the width and the slopes. We have only two small places where the slope exceedes 30 degrees, and I am willing to make them no go areas, rather than going with the 1845, and having it spend 99% of its' life without the second wheels, trying to manouever around the barns and trails. Worst case, I guess I can sell the 1445 and get an 1845. :) I'll test drive it on the slopes and see how bad the pucker factor is. (Mine, not the tractor.)
Which tires do you have? Which would you recommend? I've read of others who have used chains to help minimize slip. Ever thought of them?

BobRip: I'm signed up for the maintenance class.

Thatguy, Pajoube: Knowing where to eat in rural areas is a major plus. Thanks for the tip!

kjm3232: I'll look for it.

Thanks for all the tips!

All the best,

Peter

Charlie_Iliff said:
I look forward to your report on the 1445. We haven't heard much about the modern version. It is a little taller and heavier than the 1845, which is more set up for slope mowing. The 1445 lifts 600 lb. more and a foot higher. The 1845 is better on very steep slopes, particularly with the dual wheels. I have single wheels on my 1845, and the limit is invariably sliding, with little threat of turning over. I'd expect the 1445 to act similarly, with little tendency to tip before sliding, and little chance of tripping, although a bit more than the 1845. Unless you have a lot of steep stuff to mow, the 1445 should work great, particularly in bucket and fork functions.

My only suggestion is that you take a lot of time and drive more than one machine. Try to simulate as much of your own likely usage as you can. When I've been there, the Power Trac people haven't gotten impatient with me, and have both demonstrated and let me try a lot of attachments. Their demo area isn't extensive, but you can figure out how to try a lot of different functions, using a bit of grass and a pile of dirt.

Have fun: I've enjoyed each trip to Tazewell.
 
   / Tazewell Visit Suggestions #8  
If you want to try a machine out on a STEEP slope you need to move off the PT manufacturing sight. At the time I visited PT had access to some steep Virginia pasture about 2 miles from the factory and demonstrated a machine on that site for me. I took a slope meter so that I could accurately assess the slope I was operating on.

I went expecting to buy the 1430 because Terry had told me prior to my visit that it was suitable for operation on slopes up to 30 degrees. However, after the demonstration of the 1430 on steep slopes and discussion with the factory rep that was handling the demonstration I ended up buying the 1845. I have never regretted the decision.

I recommend that you specifically request in advance a demonstration of the 1445 on slopes equal in steepness of those you plan to operate on and take a measurement device to verify that the slopes are equal to what you plan to operate on!
 
   / Tazewell Visit Suggestions #9  
ponytug said:
Which tires do you have? Which would you recommend? I've read of others who have used chains to help minimize slip. Ever thought of them?

Peter
I have bar tires and turf tires in 26X12.00-12. Neither has been quite as puncture resistant as I'd like, but Gempler's bulletproof puncture sealer really helps. Currently, I have two bar tires on the front and two turfs on the rear, one turf needing repair, and two bars just fitted with tubes and no sealer in yet. No plan, it just worked out that way, :p
I think the turfs have slightly better traction in all but muddy conditions. For hill work, bars are maybe a bit better if the ground is soft. I haven't tried chains. I think most chains would interfere with the brakes. 1445 brakes are different, but I don't know if clearance would be better. I suspect the stock 1445 tires are tougher than those on my 1845. I don't know how they'll compare in traction. Things to ask Terry, and then, as Bob suggested, take an inclinometer and the machine(s) on a hill.
Incidentally, I doubt anyone would suggest you can't work a 30 degree hill up and down with a 1445. Just do everything super slowly. I just filled three large root-ball holes on a 30 degree hillside with ten tons of dirt, carrying most up from the bottom, and spread another two tons of compost. I did it at a snail's pace, up and down, with a light material bucket, then a 4 n 1. I often ran out of climbing traction straight up, but could move at a slight angle. Once the compost was started, I had to go the long way around to the top, and spread it only going down. That was slippery enough that after a couple of passes I handed rakes to a couple of interested observers and took the PT off the hill.:D
 
   / Tazewell Visit Suggestions #10  
Charlie_Iliff said:
I have bar tires and turf tires in 26X12.00-12. Neither has been quite as puncture resistant as I'd like, but Gempler's bulletproof puncture sealer really helps.
My 1845 came with 2 ply tires as original equipmnent--I didn't pay a lot of attention to the tires at the time of purchase.

The OEM tires were totally unsatisfactory--easily punctured and when I added sealant they wouldn't stay on the rims when running with relatively low pressure and working steep slopes cross slope.

I ended up replacing them with the heaviest duty turf tires I could find--a 6 ply tire. This resolved my tire problems--no more puctures or other problems.

If I were doing it again I would specifically negotiate on the tires to get heavier duty tires as original equipment.
 

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