Test Generator - 1971 Ford 3000

/ Test Generator - 1971 Ford 3000 #1  

jascott

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Mar 10, 2008
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24
I am in the process of fixing up a 1971 Ford 3000 Gas tractor.

The previous owner had replaced the generator w/ an alternator, that appeared to be overcharging the battery.

I purchased a new generator and installed it, but I don't think it is working.

Engine off battery voltage 12.9 volts.
Engine running 1500 rpms 12.3 volts. ???
Engine running no wires connected to generator - generator voltage 2.9 volts.

Any specific steps to check things out? I have also replaced the voltage regulator..

Thanks,

JS
 
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/ Test Generator - 1971 Ford 3000 #2  
When you remove most generators from a tractor and reinstall it may need to be polarized . I cant give you the steps as it has been a while since i have done it . But it has to be done or it wont charge .It is touching a wire to a terminal and i dont want to tell you the wrong ones. You can also do a search on polarize a generator there is some disscusion on the subject.
 
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/ Test Generator - 1971 Ford 3000
  • Thread Starter
#3  
That did it. Once I figured out how to polarize it, the system seems to be charging now. I am registering 13.8 volts at 1500rpm.

To polarize it, I lowered the harness connecting to the VR about 1/2 way and shorted the B and F connectors. Battery to Field. It sparked, and that was it.

Thanks,
JS
 
/ Test Generator - 1971 Ford 3000 #5  
Yep.. those lucas gens for fords are B circuit.. polarize field to battery.. that will also full field them for a current test too.

Older 8n gennies were a-circuit and polarized differently.

congrats on changing back to a generator system.. not many people are brave enought to do that.

soundguy
 
/ Test Generator - 1971 Ford 3000 #7  
Egon said:
Did someone mention Lucas???

Indirectly, yes.

If it's a oem gen on a ford from 65 and up.. it's likely a lucas product, and if earlier than 65, it should be a ford gen.

soundguy
 
/ Test Generator - 1971 Ford 3000 #8  
i just bought a 71 ford 3000 as well mine is not charging. an old timer said to ground the field. i am a 33 year plus mechanic on cars and light trucks.
not much experience on gens.
 
/ Test Generator - 1971 Ford 3000 #9  
the old timer gave you a good way to cook a 40$ regulator. He's thinking about the older 8n vreg /genny that is A circuit. back 47-52..

all fords 53+ and your 3000 uses a B circuit system. the reg provides POWER to the field post on the genny.

to test a B circuit genny. first motor test it.

slip belt off. jump battery + to field and armature. genny should spin. if it does.. continue on to next step.

slip belt back on.. put meter across battery.. should be 12.6 or so static.

start tractor.. get to 2/3 to 3/4 throttle.

voltage should be 13.8-14.7

if no increase.. jump bat + to field... that should make charge voltage jump. if not, jump bat to field and arm. if voltage onthe bat comes up.. replace regulator.
 
/ Test Generator - 1971 Ford 3000 #10  
hey thanks i did find out that i have about 28 volts unregulated coming in to regulator. if i jumper to the battery plus side i get about 14 volts.
this is a lucas system with a 5 wire set up. i have only seen 3 or 4 wire , one is a dedicated ground. these lucas regulators are a bit hard to find.
i need the tach drive off of the gen so i want to keep it. otherwise i would put a one wire delco on it.
any more help would be great
thanks
bigmarty
 
/ Test Generator - 1971 Ford 3000 #11  
the lucas regs are anything but hard to find.

most antique tractor parts houses carry them. you can get them on ebay, amazon.. ytmag, steiners, and even.. a CNH dealer.

ps.. it is not good for the genny to run it with no load and full field. good way to damage it...

soundguy
 
/ Test Generator - 1971 Ford 3000 #13  
I have a 1972 ford 3000 diesel someone told me when I install a new battery I needed to ground it but I don't understand what they were talking about can anyone help me
 
/ Test Generator - 1971 Ford 3000 #14  
Of course when you install a battery it will need to be grounded.

IE.. in a 12v neg grnd system, the negative post of the battery is hooked to chassis, positive post goes to starter solenoid.

You should not have to mess with your generator unless you have changed the system polarity.. or have not run the tractor in months or years.

You do not need to do anything to the regulator.

Some people mistakenly think you have to polarize a generator if you disconnect the battery.. this is a myth.. the cutout in the regulator disconnects the genny armature from the battery every time you shut the tractor down. And the regulator itself never needs polarization. If you change battery polarity, then you SHOULD repolarize the genny. Keep in mind it is a "B" circuit system, thus you polarize by jumpering BAT to FIELD for a second.

Again.. simple bat change? no need to do anything to the genny UNLESS it does not charge after you get her started. if that is the case.. post back.
 
/ Test Generator - 1971 Ford 3000 #15  
the old timer gave you a good way to cook a 40$ regulator. He's thinking about the older 8n vreg /genny that is A circuit. back 47-52..

all fords 53+ and your 3000 uses a B circuit system. the reg provides POWER to the field post on the genny.

to test a B circuit genny. first motor test it.

slip belt off. jump battery + to field and armature. genny should spin. if it does.. continue on to next step.

slip belt back on.. put meter across battery.. should be 12.6 or so static.

start tractor.. get to 2/3 to 3/4 throttle.

voltage should be 13.8-14.7

if no increase.. jump bat + to field... that should make charge voltage jump. if not, jump bat to field and arm. if voltage onthe bat comes up.. replace regulator.

I"m sorry to bring back such an old thread, but I have a basic question about troubleshooting these generators. My generator doesn't say which connector is field and which is armature. And I don't find it in the I&T manual either. My generator has 2 wires connected to it. The connector blade on the left is small. The connector blade on the right is big. Which is which? If I jumper from the battery + to the one on the right the wire gets hot real fast. If I jumper from the battery + to both of them at the same time the generator spins.
 
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