The Tractor cave...

   / The Tractor cave... #41  
I should have been more detailed---
not only is there a box, but it is also wired to the central fire alarm system..
the ones where if one goes off they all go off!

:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Pete
 
   / The Tractor cave...
  • Thread Starter
#42  
Josephus,

That will be a nice place to park your tractor. One suggestion, maybe firemen will chime in here too - put a couple smoke/heat detectors in the space above your lowered ceiling and below the joists. That looks like a nasty fire spot if one ever gets going - you may not know about it for awhile.

Good luck on your mudding. I have no talent for it. Actually hate it.
Dave.

I was re-reading this post... and then saw the bove the lowered ceiling part.... I had planned on putting one in the room... should I not???


J
 
   / The Tractor cave... #43  
Put a box and wire in the tractor cave room (ceiling). Then you put a temperature sensor in the box. Doing that is 85% of the battle. I have temperature sensors in my garage, outbuilding tractor garage, kitchen, and attic. Temperature sensors are good for areas that might trip a smoke detector with "normal" use (or in the case of a kitchen, mild calamity but not dangerous :laughing:).

As for the space between the lowered ceiling and the 1st floor joists, if you can have access to the detector when everything is done then I'd toss in the wire and box. The judgment call here is how could such an area catch on fire, and if it does would existing sensors in the basement go off before the fire got to the boxed in area?
There is another practical matters that will guide you here too. Do you have extra zones on your alarm system so that the incremental cost of the sensor is low?

The reason I have a temp sensor in the attic is because this is an area that can catch on fire from lightning strikes, so all the sensors in the rooms below the attic would not go off. So you'll have to look at the big picture and make the call. I think I'd opt for smoke block (plywood on a joist to seal off the space) above the tractor cave if it wasn't too hard to do. That way if the tractor catches fire, the fire won't use that space to spread under the 1st floor of the whole house.

Pete
 
   / The Tractor cave... #44  
Great thread! I'm thinking about doing a "tractor cave" of my own as I'll be putting a 16 x 25' addition on the back of my house with a full basement underneath which will be connected to the existing full basement via a 36" wide window opening that I'll simply cut out completely for a doorway. The resulting doorway will connect to the unfinished side of the basement where all the "utilities" (washer/dryer, furnace, water heater, etc...) are. What concerns me is the fact that also on that side is my wood add-on furnace. Would it be unsafe to store gasoline powered equipment in the new full basement since there is a wood fired appliance located in the existing full basement? I would store bulk fuel up in the garage, but if I put all of my gasoline powered stuff (tractor, push mower, string trimmer, blower, power washer, chainsaws, generator) that's a fair amount of gasoline sitting around. Is this an issue or am I worrying about nothing? I just question it since building codes generally prohibit wood fired appliances in any part of a home deemed a "garage" because of the the assumption that flammable fuels will be stored there.
 
   / The Tractor cave... #45  
IHDiesel, I don't know the exact code-book answer to your question.

I know garages have specific requirements regarding drywall, door fire ratings, and light fixtures. If you're parking any kind of vehicle in your new space, I would hope it would meet those requirements. If I understand you correctly, all the normal utility room things and the wood furnace would be on one side of the door (the existing unfinished basement), and your "basement garage" with tractors on the other side (new, finished area). So I'd be sure that the new where your tractor will be parked met all the requirements for a garage, including door, drywall, and air tightness.

Houses are filled with things that can spark and cause fuel vapors to burn. Your wood furnace, lights switches, any switch or relay that turns something on and off are all sources of ignition. The key difference is the wood furnace is a source of ignition all on it's own, independent of when a occupant turns something on. So something can leak, vapors build up, ignite, and all while you nowhere near the area. This is why the new area must be air-tight with regard to the house; it is a garage.

I hope you put a heat detector in that space. You might also be able to add sprinklers to it.

Sorry I don't have an exact answer, hope those thoughts help.

Pete
 
   / The Tractor cave...
  • Thread Starter
#46  
IHDiesel, I don't know the exact code-book answer to your question.

I know garages have specific requirements regarding drywall, door fire ratings, and light fixtures. If you're parking any kind of vehicle in your new space, I would hope it would meet those requirements. If I understand you correctly, all the normal utility room things and the wood furnace would be on one side of the door (the existing unfinished basement), and your "basement garage" with tractors on the other side (new, finished area). So I'd be sure that the new where your tractor will be parked met all the requirements for a garage, including door, drywall, and air tightness.

Houses are filled with things that can spark and cause fuel vapors to burn. Your wood furnace, lights switches, any switch or relay that turns something on and off are all sources of ignition. The key difference is the wood furnace is a source of ignition all on it's own, independent of when a occupant turns something on. So something can leak, vapors build up, ignite, and all while you nowhere near the area. This is why the new area must be air-tight with regard to the house; it is a garage.

I hope you put a heat detector in that space. You might also be able to add sprinklers to it.

Sorry I don't have an exact answer, hope those thoughts help.

Pete


Pete is right...
you need 5/8 drywall-- fireboard for code... and several more...


J
 
   / The Tractor cave... #47  
Pete is right...
you need 5/8 drywall-- fireboard for code... and several more...


J

And probably a 20 min fire door, like for attached garages.... Maybe even something higher rated. Best way to answer those questions is call the building inspector. You usually don't have to identify yourself if you are concerned about it, but it helps to be up front.

-Dave
 
   / The Tractor cave...
  • Thread Starter
#48  
And probably a 20 min fire door, like for attached garages.... Maybe even something higher rated. Best way to answer those questions is call the building inspector. You usually don't have to identify yourself if you are concerned about it, but it helps to be up front.

-Dave


yeppers on the fire rated door...
Do call the codes inspector....

J
 
   / The Tractor cave... #51  
It is 35 here tonight.. and winter is over?????

Same here.... has a pretty good frost on the windshield yesterday morning. Haven't been outside yet this morning. But when things are starting to grow, spring's here. Time to start getting some work done.:D
 
   / The Tractor cave... #52  
Got all the sheetrock up yet? If not, the labor will keep you warm.:D
 
   / The Tractor cave... #53  
Trying to revive this thread that I didn't know existed. Any new pics?
I've been working on my own tractor cave that my wife affectionately refers to as my "serial killer lair" - what with the lock on door, my secreting away to it, etc. Personally, I prefer a less nefarious title like "Fortress of Solitude." But instead of a frozen, arctic hideaway, it's cinderblock and smells like fuel and lumber.
 
   / The Tractor cave...
  • Thread Starter
#54  
Life has gotten in the way... I'm currently 1 sheet from finishing the ceiling and then resizing the Garage door...
There is a lock on the door, and all is there.. But just need to get er done....


The garage door was roughed in at 7 x 8.. I elected for 7'6 x 8 so the tractor can clear the opening..

I really only need 7'2...

It looks like I might finish it in the next month....

but I have started another project.... Pictures on that soon....
 
   / The Tractor cave... #55  
RadarTech, on the 3rd page you posted a pick of doing drywall... is that a lift for holding up drywall? I've never seen that before. I've always built "T"'s to hold up ceiling drywall.
 
   / The Tractor cave... #56  
A nice looking cave. Thanks for the pictures.
 
   / The Tractor cave...
  • Thread Starter
#57  
rkeith said:
RadarTech, on the 3rd page you posted a pick of doing drywall... is that a lift for holding up drywall? I've never seen that before. I've always built "T"'s to hold up ceiling drywall.

Yes sir!!!! That lift was awesome!
I dont have the link handy, but you can lift up 12 foot sheets real easy...

I would have to look back but I think it cost $25 for the weekend, well saturday noon to monday am...

a friend told me about the T and I just want up for it....
 
   / The Tractor cave...
  • Thread Starter
#58  
RadarTech said:
Yes sir!!!! That lift was awesome!
I dont have the link handy, but you can lift up 12 foot sheets real easy...

I would have to look back but I think it cost $25 for the weekend, well saturday noon to monday am...

a friend told me about the T and I just want up for it....

Thanks!!!
 
   / The Tractor cave...
  • Thread Starter
#59  
crbr said:
A nice looking cave. Thanks for the pictures.

Uggggggg..this is where I meant to say thanks!
 
   / The Tractor cave...
  • Thread Starter
#60  
Ok... So life has really interrupted the building of the tractor cave like you wouldn't believe.
But I have recently started on the neighbor to the tractor cave.... The man cave... It is progressing rapidly as I needed somewhere to work on some electronic stuff and a place to put the new Dillon 650 press that will be ordered soon....

Alas I have no before pictures..... But I'll post a couple of pics...
Of the three below you see one that is the small bench built from scrap wood...
The wide shot showing the cluttered harbor freight bench on the right and the electronics/server cabinet on the left with the new countertop bench on the left.

The last pic shows the new counter top bench with the large black tool box on this end.

The bench was built with treated 4x4 legs.. 3 sets of them.
And a box of 2x6s making the supporting legs.
It was all screwed together using 3 inch wood screws and I also used my corner clamps to hold it while I built it... There will be shelves added at some point, but I need to think that through...

I used a keg tool to fasten the top on it.

The top came from lowes and is 8 feet long.
I got it for $45.. It has a crack belong the tool box.. So you can't see it..

Eventually when my Dillon press is ordered I'll mount it on the end... Then the ammo loading will commence in earnest!!!

I'll add some a/v stuff too, as I have a spare tv and a DVD player And that will really make it cool!!!
Anyway... I think I'll have the tractor cave door up in the next week or 2... And then I'll post that....
 

Attachments

  • image-1027831898.png
    image-1027831898.png
    577.5 KB · Views: 305
  • image-3526784976.png
    image-3526784976.png
    550.9 KB · Views: 241
  • image-1829594281.png
    image-1829594281.png
    572.7 KB · Views: 257

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

John Deere 6110M (A60462)
John Deere 6110M...
2009 Ford Econoline Wagon Van, 101,671 Miles (A56438)
2009 Ford...
2018 KOMATSU PC138USLC-11 EXCAVATOR (A60429)
2018 KOMATSU...
43023 (A59228)
43023 (A59228)
Snorkel Uno 41D 4x4 Articulating Boom Lift (A59228)
Snorkel Uno 41D...
1996 Timpte 46ft Hopper (A56438)
1996 Timpte 46ft...
 
Top