Thinking of trading for a L3901

varmint · Jun 12, 2016

I'd also say that SSQA, filled rears, spacers and bucket hooks are all good! Work lights are easy and cheap to add when and if you want them. Rear hydraulics are handy, but maybe not required if you don't think you will use them. I have them, but other than angling my snowplow, I don't need them. I think the rear spacers are going to add to your feeling of stability!

GaryS · Jun 12, 2016

For the rear remotes, what is it that I ask for? 3 rear remotes? About how much should they cost? Being able to angle my snow plow without getting off the tractor would be great.

TripleR · Jun 13, 2016

Personally I usually recommend a minimum of one rear remote, so you can get a hydraulic top-link. Then try to assess your future needs as best as you can. If you are going with a TnT then you will need a second. I like to leave room to grow so to speak, but they can be pretty expensive. I got three because I bought a HR3584 with my last tractor as I do a lot of dirt work as we have quite a few roads and our hill farms tend to erode in heavy rains, so there are often repairs.

Many find using a rollover box scrapper which can be used without the need for the third remote. Some don't even see a need for the tilt function, so you really need to think of future needs.

As to price, the build function on Kubota should give you the OEM price and places such as Fit Rite Hydraulics Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com can give you advice and prices. If you are mechanically inclined I believe Everything Attachments has a video.

varmint · Jun 13, 2016

Ah- if you will be snow plowing, then most definitely get at least one remote... Lots of users like the third function installed on the loader joystick, but for snow plowing, a rear remote works just fine. I can see where a third function might be handy for a loader grapple, but I think a rear remote is cheaper, and for $100 you can run a pair of hoses with couplers to the front. Plus you still have the rear for whatever. Maybe get two while you are at it- not cheap, but the second should cost less than the first, and so forth, since they will stack. I don't have a good picture of how the hydraulic hoses are attached to the left loader arm, but here's the hoses that feed the relief valve on the plow- if it hits something, it will just pivot free without damaging anything. You adjust the relief pressure to find a happy place, based on trial and error (well, avoid the error). You can sort of see the hoses in the second photo...

GaryS · Jun 15, 2016

Thanks for all the advice. I bought the L3901. They're working on adding the stuff and figuring out a delivery date. The advice here really helped with the decision and the configuration.

TripleR · Jun 16, 2016

Congratulations on your new tractor, let us know when you get it.

Garandman · Jun 16, 2016

I put a 36w LED worklight on the FEL. Very inexpensive and you can wire it into the factory connector. 3D printed a simple switch housing.

The Deerslayer · Jun 16, 2016

Congrats on the new rig. :thumbsup:Show us some pics once delivered.

GaryS · Jun 18, 2016

I spoke with the dealership about adding a rear remote and his number was in the $1k ballpark for 1 rear remote - does that sound about right? That's probably more than I want to spend on something I don't need yet. I see that the rear work lights are only $85, I'll tell them to add those.

Fallon · Jun 18, 2016

Ya, about right for a factory kit. I think I spent around $2k for 3 spools (2 on a joystick with float) & my TnT system getting it through MtnViewRanch (FitRite Hydraulics).

TripleR · Jun 18, 2016

I guess it depends on your dealer, I got three rear remotes for $1100 (as best as I could figure, on my L5740. I took my build sheet to my dealer and told them to give me their absolute best price. On the fourth "best offer he could make without his kids going hungry", I had whittled off an additional 3k.

s219 · Jun 18, 2016

GaryS said:
I spoke with the dealership about adding a rear remote and his number was in the $1k ballpark for 1 rear remote - does that sound about right? That's probably more than I want to spend on something I don't need yet. I see that the rear work lights are only $85, I'll tell them to add those.

I'd say have them put on at least two, if not all three. The labor/time won't be greatly affected by adding more valves now.

But if you don't need them right away and don't need to squeeze the cost into financing now, then wait -- you can add them at any time.

dangier_VA · Jun 24, 2016

Pulled the trigger today on a L3901 with loader. Hope to like this one as much as my L3130.

dchemphill1 · Jun 24, 2016

Congrats on the new tractor. Send pics to show it off.

dangier_VA · Jun 24, 2016

Pick it up next Friday. Once we got on the same page for pricing, dealer was terrific so far.

Ryansweatt2004 · Jun 25, 2016

I love my L3901dt. I'm sure you'll like yours. Great tractor overall.

GaryS · Jun 26, 2016

My L3901 was delivered on Friday. Here's my initial impressions.

1) This thing is a beast. I've gone from a pto of about 22 to 31 but it's night and day different. It took every HP the massey had to operate the woods brush hog. The 3901 didn't break a sweat.

2) I had a set of Pat's Easy Change hitches on the Massey and need to either buy a new set of get something like it for the kubota. Swapping attachments the old way is painful. Anyone have Pats on their tractor? Is there anything newer or better? I asked the dealer if they offered anything and the only thing they sold was a Land Pride quick swap system but it was over $700 so I didn't even look at it.

3) speaking of swapping attachments, I'm not crazy about the top link. The massey had one that could be adjusted without tools. The one on the kubota requires a wrench to adjust.

s219 · Jun 26, 2016

Looks good, but I think you must be doing something wrong if you need a wrench for the top link. It should spin easily by hand as long as you have the locking nuts backed off and no pressure/weight on the implement. The locking nuts don't need to be tightened with a wrench -- hand tight is enough. Make sure the threads are greased/lubed so it all turns smoothly.

GaryS · Jun 26, 2016

s219 said:
Looks good, but I think you must be doing something wrong if you need a wrench for the top link. It should spin easily by hand as long as you have the locking nuts backed off and no pressure/weight on the implement. The locking nuts don't need to be tightened with a wrench -- hand tight is enough. Make sure the threads are greased/lubed so it all turns smoothly.

I'm sure I'm doing it wrong. The Massey toplink had a teardrop shaped nut on the top link which made it easy. After running a bit I found it loose so I used the wrench to make sure it didn't happen again. I'll try it again just hand tightened.

dchemphill1 · Jun 26, 2016

GaryS I tighten the lock nuts with a wrench. I tried hand tightening and the implement vibrations loosen it and it sways possibly getting into those new tires.

The tractor looks awesome now it needs some dirt on it!