It's not only that Race Ramps must be loaded evenly, they need to be on a nice surface, like concrete, not gravel.
That hydraulic dove will lift and support 10,000 lbs. but that doesn't mean I'll trust it to stay in a given position, other than fully up or all the way down. So some sort of "cribbing" to keep it at the desired height is better.
With the toy hauler it's a must as the door/ramp goes to the ground...or whatever stops it first, like those RV jack blocks. Then the door and the ramps can rest on the blocks.
f you end up buying the Texas tilt deck, I would treat it like I do my hydraulic dove and toy hauler and set the deck on something, then put aluminum ramps either on the deck or the "something" supporting the end of the trailer deck.
The aluminum ramps in post #53 are my short aluminum ramps, but since I had looked up the height of the dealer's 2-piece Race Ramps before leaving I already knew it would work.
And that was my girlfriend's car by the way, headed for a dealer to get traded in. That GT4 had a ridiculously low approach angle (about half of a Hellcat's) which is why I took the easy way out and used the lift to load it instead of cobbling something up with ramps.
Either way, the ramps need something to grab onto in the trailer end, and if knife edged, needs to be made or supported to work with low angles. When you decide on a trailer it's probably time to PM me your phone number so we can go over the finer points. Or do it now, if you want.
