Tool for Grubbing Stumps

[RonMar]

Hey Guys, I don't want to re-invent the wheel, so I need help. Just purchased 10 acres that is primarily hardwood timber. The previous owner went through the plot with a shredder and took out everything three inches and less. Now I have a lot of small stumps that need to be grubbed out of the ground. Have a L3130 and thought I might adapt an old middle-buster to do the job. Seems like I could just back up, over the stump, set the "adapted" tool into the ground, then pull the stump and root ball out, while lifting with the TPH. Surely, somebody had come up with a good tool to accomplish this task. Any ideas ? Thanks

I use a ER series single shank ripper made by Rankin equipment http://www.rankineqco.com//pdf/singleshankrippers.pdf with just the bare shank(it came with the plow blade for making furrows). It is pretty robust.

I use it almost exactly like you describe for small stumps and bushes. For the ones I think have a more extensive root system, I will sometimes rip along either side of the stump to cut roots then I back over the top a bit so the shank has room to get under the ground and wedge into the roots. I do this in creeper gear and as soon as I feel things getting tight and the tractor slowing I lift the 3PH and this usually peels the root wad right out of the ground.

 

[Neil L]

Island is on target. I made one using a BB ripper and fashioned a "V" in a 5" square peice of 1/2" plate. I made a mounting gizmo that I also use with a gable plow made of a ripper Some one on this sight had a good pix. Also I think backing and lifting is best for sapplings, I can also see for small stumps how that red one would justgrab on after you drive over, pull drop and roll on to the next. Mine works great!

Neil

 

[JerryG]

How does that one work? It looks to me like the v cut/blade is facing towards the 3pt hitch instead of rearward which is what you'd need to back up to snag a standing tree. I guess this style would work fine with stumps as you'd just drive over them but it would be kinda tough to lean backwards to look down to see you were properly lined up while moving forwards.

From what I understand it is for stumps and roots. You have a lot more advantage going forward.

 

[diyDave]

JerryG is right-for 2 reasons. 1. Tires are designed to pull with most traction in forward direction. 2. Three point hitch works better, and is stronger in extension mode (pulling forward). Pushing a three point implement is a good way of bending the lift arms or toplink.

 

[IslandTractor]

JerryG is right-for 2 reasons. 1. Tires are designed to pull with most traction in forward direction. 2. Three point hitch works better, and is stronger in extension mode (pulling forward). Pushing a three point implement is a good way of bending the lift arms or toplink.

I appreciate Jerry's and your points. However, for the small sapling type stumps that the original poster described, I'd think that the strain on the 3PT would be minimal if you are just jamming the V to get a grip and that traction is not an issue as you are really just using the 3PT to lift the things out of the ground.

The forward acting plow device certainly looks formidable and probably doesn't use the 3PT to lift at all but lining it up an an individual stump seems a bit more tricky.

 

[critter1]

Thanks for the input, gentlemen. I think that the Harris Root Plow, like the one suggested by JerryG, or a single shank ripper, would serve me best. The area is so heavily wooded, I'm afraid that the FEL would create more collateral root damage to surrounding mature trees, than the smaller type implement. Also, I feel that pulling forward and lifting will be more efficient and less likely to bend the lift arms. As always, the feed-back on this forum is fantastic.......thanks again, to everyone.