Towing capacity

[meyerld]

I have actual experience with something very similar. We moved from Green Bay Wisconsin to North Georgia...nearly 1000 mile trip. I purchased a dual axle 20' long equipment trailer and hauled my Deere 5065E with FEL and bucket with my 2005 Nissan Titan LE with no issues at all. It is very important chain the tractor to the the trailer with binders and its important to use the right tie down locations on the tractor.

 

[newbury]

“I bought too big of a trailer!” Said no man ever...

Until he tried to park it and keep it in a small space.
My 18' Hudson barely fit in my small suburban driveway in Northern Virginia, but it came with my B7610.
When I bought it:

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Parked at my house it consumed half of my driveway.

 

[GordonF]

How do you establish the actual tongue weight?

 

[Smily0]

I have a Kubota L6060HST with Cab, which is on the largest end of the CUT. All of these numbers are referenced from the manufacture manuals/specs, so hopefully this will give you some additional examples. My tractor with loader and bucket, but not 3-point attachments is already right at 7k lbs when you add fuel. If I were taking the brush hog somewhere, I could leave the loader and bucket which would offset the brush hog, but, I'd rather have the bucket on to run down low to watch for stumps/rocks/etc when cutting an unknown place. That puts a realistic load at 8300 lbs without any extra attachments, tools, etc you might want to bring along. As for length, I am around 24-26' with the bucket and brush hog on, but could fold in the rear tires on the brush hog and shave it down another 2' or so. It would be more work, but you could load the brush hog on, drop it, strap it down, and then park with the bucket over to conserve space. The model I have is a dual spindle 8' so it is a good bit shorter than most single spindles.

L6060 - ROPS	4,023 Lbs​
L6060 - Cab (Additional)	342 Lbs​
LA1055 Loader	1,411 Lbs​
L2245 72" 4-in-1 bucket	620 Lbs​
Rear Tire Ballast	550 Lbs​
Tractor Subtotal	6,946 Lbs​
County Line/Tarter 72" Tiller	718 Lbs​
Titan Implement 1808 8' 3-point rotary Cutter	1,250 Lbs​

 

[Smily0]

How do you establish the actual tongue weight?

I personally use a Weigh-Safe hitch when pulling a tag trailer. They have a Gooseneck ball for OEM and BW, but not for Curt, or I would have that too. Might it be overkill? Maybe, but I would rather error on the side of safety and the money for it is peace of mine.

 

[tamarack]

I am trying to build out parameters for a truck and trailer I will need to transport my tractor. I can get specific weights on tractors and equipment. I am trying to determine how much 'wiggle room' I need to build in to my calculations. So if I get a medium-sized CUT with ROPs, that is about 3300 lbs. 16 ft trailer with about 7000 lb capacity is 2500-3000 lbs. Cab is a maybe right now. FEL is a definite yes, so I will have to add in weight for that. Also likely to have med-hvy duty RC on 3pt. What other factors do I need to consider? Like, how heavy would loaded tires be? At this point, I don't know what I don't know. I don't want to buy too small a truck, but I also have no interest in a behemoth.

I have a B7800 with a BH75 hoe. In the past I had a 20 foot tandem axle 7,000 lb trailer. I sold the flatbed trailer after I purchased a 6x12 10K dump trailer. I used this trailer for many years, but it was difficult to shoehorn the tractor into the trailer. I gave the 6x12 dump trailer to our son and bought a 7x14 14K dump trailer which I still have to this day. I would prefer to have a 7x16 14K dump trailer, but I have pretty tight quarters to work with at our mountain property and consequently the 14 foot trailer works. I have decided that if I am only going to have one trailer, it will be a dump trailer. My trailer is a Big Tex 14LX,

 

[MHarryE]

I began with only a 4,000 pound mini-excavator and bought the minimum the trailer dealer said would handle the load - a 18' car hauler with 7,000# capacity. It worked well with my F-150 equipped with tow package and a 9,000# tow rating. Now I have a lot more equipment and my main trailer is a 12,000# capacity, dual 7,500# axles, 20' hydraulic tilt bed. Only thing I miss now is the year following my trailer purchase, the manufacturer came out with a slightly higher bed with drive over fenders. Also my main hauler is a F-250 PowerStroke but it doesn't handle the trailer as well as my latest F-150. I got the F-250 used for a decent price so I wouldn't be as abusive on the F-150 power train. Summary - my original low cost solution ended up costing more money in the long run since I had to upgrade.

 

[Jstpssng]

Slowpoke Slim​

<snip. In today's world of "sissy-fied" trucks, they all have to ride like luxury cars, or "truck buyers" won't buy them. So they make the springs extra soft compared to decades ago so today's "momma's boys" won't wet their pants when they go over a bump.>

Yet even though the truck "decades ago" rode like an 8N Ford, today's half ton has better brakes, stronger frame, bigger payload and more towing capacity than a 3/4 ton truck of years ago.
Just because they are more comfortable to ride in doesn't mean they are any less of a truck. I drive about 45K miles per year between work and personal use. Much of that is on roads which haven't been maintained in years, since the last time that we cut wood on them. I like having a nice riding truck.
Contrast that to my old 1987 GMC heavy half "toy truck" which rode like a brick on good roads. There's a stretch of highway between here and town which gets pretty rough during spring breakup. After riding down that a couple of times with my last dog she refused to even get into the truck. Yet it had less towing capacity/payload than my old Ranger or my current Colorado.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

But there's no free ride. The newer "squishy" suspensions compress farther under load.

That's my point.

Which was to respond to TractorGuy's comment that if the rear end sags, it's not up to the task.

 

[Smily0]

When it comes to truck/trailer selection, there are some potential legal issues to keep in mind. I've seen it brought up here, but not explained. FMCSA (quoted below) states that if your vehicle has a GCWR of 26,0001 AND you are hauling a trailer with a GVWR of 10,001 or more (note these are ratings, and not actual load), you need a CDL if used for commerce. This applies in all states, but I've not heard of much enforcement. You are exempt from this if used for your farm, as quoted below as well, but if you use the trailer for non-farm use, or more than 150 miles from your farm (by air, not road miles), the exemption no longer applies. While you may never have an office enforce it, it could cause issues if there were an accident where insurance may not want to pay citing you were in the commission of a crime, so consider it carefully. (Yes, I've read of this happening.)

I personally don't like this law, but it is what it is. I live in TN and they even had a special CDL (Class A with Type 57 restriction) that is aimed specifically at pickups that fall into CDL territory. Basically, keep in mind the truck weight capabilities if you plan to go over a 10,001 lb rated trailer. Also, don't forget you need to make sure your truck registration allows for the expected weight you plan to haul. They make it such a pain to be legal, but ignorance is no excuse.

I attached the two capacity sheet from Ford for the 2015 year model. I have a F350 DRW 4x4 with 4.30 axle ratio. My GVWR is 14,000 lbs, but GCWR is 35,000, so any trailer over 10,001 for me needs a CDL if not for farm. That said, I could have bought F350 SRW or lower (any F250 basically) and have had a GCWR of 23,500 lbs and hauled a 14k conventional or 15,700 gooseneck without CDW. Hopefully this helps with your truck selection. You can google for the tow capacity sheets like this for whatever year/brand you are looking at to help make a decision.

FMCSA 383.5
Commercial motor vehicle (CMV) means a motor vehicle or combination of motor vehicles used in commerce to transport passengers or property if the motor vehicle is a—

(1) Combination Vehicle (Group A)—having a gross combination weight rating or gross combination weight of 11,794 kilograms or more (26,001 pounds or more), whichever is greater, inclusive of a towed unit(s) with a gross vehicle weight rating or gross vehicle weight of more than 4,536 kilograms (10,000 pounds), whichever is greater; or

FMCSA 383.3
(d) Exception for farmers, firefighters, emergency response vehicle drivers, and drivers removing snow and ice. A State may, at its discretion, exempt individuals identified in paragraphs (d)(1), (d)(2), and (d)(3) of this section from the requirements of this part. The use of this waiver is limited to the driver's home State unless there is a reciprocity agreement with adjoining States.

(1) Operators of a farm vehicle which is:

(i) Controlled and operated by a farmer, including operation by employees or family members;

(ii) Used to transport either agricultural products, farm machinery, farm supplies, or both to or from a farm;

(iii) Not used in the operations of a for-hire motor carrier, except for an exempt motor carrier as defined in §390.5 of this subchapter; and

(iv) Used within 241 kilometers (150 miles) of the farmer's farm.

TN Commercial Drivers License
Some drivers may require an A/57 license. This license applies to drivers who do not require a class A license, but who haul an excess of 10,001 pounds or more. Examples are: F450 pick-up truck hauling a 10,001 or more pound trailer, an electric department truck hauling a 10,000 pound forklift on a flatbed trailer, etc.

 

[lukeh]

No-one ever regretted going oversize (I don't think!).

Trailer with 6" C channel frame and 8 lug axles. That will give you a 14,000lbs GVWR, and the trailer will weigh 3500-4000. Brakes on both axles. PJ trailers website has a nice breakdown with all the capacities by frame weight and axle rating.
My vote would be to start here: 6" Channel Equipment (CC)
I would also immediately switch to 14 ply 110psi tires if it didn't come with them (Hercules H-901, Sailun S-637, etc).

Hitch rated for 20,000lbs (ideally solid, not adjustable) in a 2-1/2" receiver.

3/4 ton or 1 ton truck, ideally long bed crew cab (the longer it is the better it tows). Ideally with air bags so you can adjust for the load.

That gives you a setup that will comfortably haul almost anything that would fit, without really ever having to worry if you're too close to the limit. You can load up with implements as needed (within reason) and have a ton of truck space to boot.

 

[Ron50]

I use a 10k "9900" trailer for a 5500# tractor. Leaves room for an implement on the back. Bigger weight also means bigger brakes and tires. 20' seems to work well for me. I tow with a F150 eco boost with a weight distribution hitch. I drove from Oregon to Arizona at 200# under GVCWR and drove just find. "Ecoboost could use an exhaust brake though".

 

[gdayers123]

I am trying to build out parameters for a truck and trailer I will need to transport my tractor. I can get specific weights on tractors and equipment. I am trying to determine how much 'wiggle room' I need to build in to my calculations. So if I get a medium-sized CUT with ROPs, that is about 3300 lbs. 16 ft trailer with about 7000 lb capacity is 2500-3000 lbs. Cab is a maybe right now. FEL is a definite yes, so I will have to add in weight for that. Also likely to have med-hvy duty RC on 3pt. What other factors do I need to consider? Like, how heavy would loaded tires be? At this point, I don't know what I don't know. I don't want to buy too small a truck, but I also have no interest in a behemoth.

Just my two cents and actual experience. I have a Kubota B3300SU with an LA504 front loader with a JBar 5' bush hog. That setup is around 3000 lbs. I use a 16ft tandem axle trailer that I estimate weighs 1200 lbs. When I bought the setup I was using a 2009 Nissan Titan, pulled it with no problem. I have since changed trucks and now pull with a Toyota Tacoma Limited and it pulls it just fine as well. The Toyota is rated for 6500 lbs. I also pull a travel trailer with the Toyota and it weighs in around 4500 lbs. I use a weight distribution hitch for the camper but not it with the tractor. The camper is like pulling a brick, tractor not so much. Only adjustment I made when changing trucks is I set the tractor a few feet back on the trailer to reduce the toungue weight given the smaller truck. Hope this helps.

 

[TractorGuy]

But there's no free ride. The newer "squishy" suspensions compress farther under load.

That's my point.

Which was to respond to TractorGuy's comment that if the rear end sags, it's not up to the task.

I said if it sags with the correct tongue weight it isn't sprung for the task. Your example proved my point.

 

[tschmid]

I am trying to build out parameters for a truck and trailer I will need to transport my tractor. I can get specific weights on tractors and equipment. I am trying to determine how much 'wiggle room' I need to build in to my calculations. So if I get a medium-sized CUT with ROPs, that is about 3300 lbs. 16 ft trailer with about 7000 lb capacity is 2500-3000 lbs. Cab is a maybe right now. FEL is a definite yes, so I will have to add in weight for that. Also likely to have med-hvy duty RC on 3pt. What other factors do I need to consider? Like, how heavy would loaded tires be? At this point, I don't know what I don't know. I don't want to buy too small a truck, but I also have no interest in a behemoth.

You might consider a dump trailer. I use a PJ tandem to hall small stuff(goose neck) it has two 7k axles and with the goose is rated at a full 14k load. They also make these for bumper pull at about 10k load. I see guys hauling their small tractors & shredders all the time with these dump trailers, they come with ramps. Use also then have something for brush, scrap steel, and dirt as well. Great utility trailers and not that much more then the flat beds. Make sure you have a tow package on your truck if you go 1/2 ton. That will give you heavy springs and extra cooling.

 

[Jstpssng]

But there's no free ride. The newer "squishy" suspensions compress farther under load.

That's my point.

Which was to respond to TractorGuy's comment that if the rear end sags, it's not up to the task.

Leaf springs alone don't dictate towing capacity either. Braking, power, gear ratio, engine,transmission, every manufacturer has specs for what each of their properly equipped products should and shouldn't do. Tow rating for a 1990 D250 4x4 is around 9000 lbs unless it's a diesel. A 2015 F250 set up like yours is closer to 12K... both rated at bumper pull.

 

[GJohnson]

Just an old country boys opinion here... 14k trailer even if you think you would not need it. You have made an investment in buying your tractor and equipment, as well as your truck. Why take a chance on an inferior trailer? Here is an example for you guys... I used to own a Big Tex 14LX dump trailer, 14’ long and bumper pull. I loved it, or so I thought. At auction, I came across a Lamar 16’ gooseneck dump trailer brand new, repoed. I could not pass it up, great deal. They both have the same GVWR and obviously the gooseneck is a bit heavier. Here is the thing...it pulls so much better because the weight is not all out past the bumper. I have loaded the same load of rock in each and am no longer uncomfortable while pulling it loaded. The tongue weight shift to the bed is much superior for towing. I did see the post with the RV, but he did not offer how much stuff he had loaded in the nose. It is just my two cents, but I also own a dual tandem gooseneck for bigger tractors as well as 32’ gooseneck cattle trailers. To me it is about being able to haul MORE than you plan to haul, as well as loading and strapping correctly. Leave the load on the trailer, not the truck, certainly with tongue weight. Some of that comes with knowledge, I suppose, but it is not a hard concept. All of this I use with my single wheel F350 with no issues.

 

[Xfaxman]

How do you establish the actual tongue weight?

Don't know where you are located but I used the drive on scales at the local Co-op.

It is easier at a truck stop, with their 3 separate scales.

This is how I weighed my empty trailer:

And the empty tongue weight:

 

[Gord Baker]

The Towing Capacity is likely on a sticker on the drivers door Pillar. Instead of guessing, get the equipment weighed or contact the Dealer.

 

[RaydaKub]

My b-i-l just drove from the Black Hills up the Al-Can highway to Soldotna, finishing on Saturday evening. He used his F150 w/ the 3.5L EcoBoost (larger of the 2) to pull a 10k rated trailer. No tractor, but loaded with UTV, 2 chest freezers, a dozen tubs of powder, ammunition, tools, whatever heavy stuff he needed to move. I believe it may have been close to the ratings, knowing what he had and what he does. There are numerous grades on that road that are not enjoyable. The F150 pulled the trailer just fine, but the tow/haul mode doesn't do squat on a 10% 3 mile long grade going down. There is just no engine braking from that little 6 cylinder like you would get from a bigger V8 (gas or diesel). He had traded off an F250 diesel a year ago because he didn't think he needed it anymore. The F150 got the job done, but after that 10% grade, it flashed up a large wrench on the dash. They pulled over at the next cell phone signal and called a couple dealers, but they couldn't diagnose it over the phone. The nearest dealer on their Covid-restricted route was 900 miles ahead. They let it cool down an hour (engine, transmission, AND brakes), then continued. No more wrench, but it sure made them nervous the rest of the trip. Help is not around the corner. I guess my point is that I think tow ratings are for bragging rights, not necessarily function.