Towing capacity

[lukeh]

No-one ever regretted going oversize (I don't think!).

Trailer with 6" C channel frame and 8 lug axles. That will give you a 14,000lbs GVWR, and the trailer will weigh 3500-4000. Brakes on both axles. PJ trailers website has a nice breakdown with all the capacities by frame weight and axle rating.
My vote would be to start here: 6" Channel Equipment (CC)
I would also immediately switch to 14 ply 110psi tires if it didn't come with them (Hercules H-901, Sailun S-637, etc).

Hitch rated for 20,000lbs (ideally solid, not adjustable) in a 2-1/2" receiver.

3/4 ton or 1 ton truck, ideally long bed crew cab (the longer it is the better it tows). Ideally with air bags so you can adjust for the load.

That gives you a setup that will comfortably haul almost anything that would fit, without really ever having to worry if you're too close to the limit. You can load up with implements as needed (within reason) and have a ton of truck space to boot.

 

[Ron50]

I use a 10k "9900" trailer for a 5500# tractor. Leaves room for an implement on the back. Bigger weight also means bigger brakes and tires. 20' seems to work well for me. I tow with a F150 eco boost with a weight distribution hitch. I drove from Oregon to Arizona at 200# under GVCWR and drove just find. "Ecoboost could use an exhaust brake though".

 

[gdayers123]

I am trying to build out parameters for a truck and trailer I will need to transport my tractor. I can get specific weights on tractors and equipment. I am trying to determine how much 'wiggle room' I need to build in to my calculations. So if I get a medium-sized CUT with ROPs, that is about 3300 lbs. 16 ft trailer with about 7000 lb capacity is 2500-3000 lbs. Cab is a maybe right now. FEL is a definite yes, so I will have to add in weight for that. Also likely to have med-hvy duty RC on 3pt. What other factors do I need to consider? Like, how heavy would loaded tires be? At this point, I don't know what I don't know. I don't want to buy too small a truck, but I also have no interest in a behemoth.

Just my two cents and actual experience. I have a Kubota B3300SU with an LA504 front loader with a JBar 5' bush hog. That setup is around 3000 lbs. I use a 16ft tandem axle trailer that I estimate weighs 1200 lbs. When I bought the setup I was using a 2009 Nissan Titan, pulled it with no problem. I have since changed trucks and now pull with a Toyota Tacoma Limited and it pulls it just fine as well. The Toyota is rated for 6500 lbs. I also pull a travel trailer with the Toyota and it weighs in around 4500 lbs. I use a weight distribution hitch for the camper but not it with the tractor. The camper is like pulling a brick, tractor not so much. Only adjustment I made when changing trucks is I set the tractor a few feet back on the trailer to reduce the toungue weight given the smaller truck. Hope this helps.

 

[TractorGuy]

But there's no free ride. The newer "squishy" suspensions compress farther under load.

That's my point.

Which was to respond to TractorGuy's comment that if the rear end sags, it's not up to the task.

I said if it sags with the correct tongue weight it isn't sprung for the task. Your example proved my point.

 

[tschmid]

I am trying to build out parameters for a truck and trailer I will need to transport my tractor. I can get specific weights on tractors and equipment. I am trying to determine how much 'wiggle room' I need to build in to my calculations. So if I get a medium-sized CUT with ROPs, that is about 3300 lbs. 16 ft trailer with about 7000 lb capacity is 2500-3000 lbs. Cab is a maybe right now. FEL is a definite yes, so I will have to add in weight for that. Also likely to have med-hvy duty RC on 3pt. What other factors do I need to consider? Like, how heavy would loaded tires be? At this point, I don't know what I don't know. I don't want to buy too small a truck, but I also have no interest in a behemoth.

You might consider a dump trailer. I use a PJ tandem to hall small stuff(goose neck) it has two 7k axles and with the goose is rated at a full 14k load. They also make these for bumper pull at about 10k load. I see guys hauling their small tractors & shredders all the time with these dump trailers, they come with ramps. Use also then have something for brush, scrap steel, and dirt as well. Great utility trailers and not that much more then the flat beds. Make sure you have a tow package on your truck if you go 1/2 ton. That will give you heavy springs and extra cooling.

 

[Jstpssng]

But there's no free ride. The newer "squishy" suspensions compress farther under load.

That's my point.

Which was to respond to TractorGuy's comment that if the rear end sags, it's not up to the task.

Leaf springs alone don't dictate towing capacity either. Braking, power, gear ratio, engine,transmission, every manufacturer has specs for what each of their properly equipped products should and shouldn't do. Tow rating for a 1990 D250 4x4 is around 9000 lbs unless it's a diesel. A 2015 F250 set up like yours is closer to 12K... both rated at bumper pull.

 

[GJohnson]

Just an old country boys opinion here... 14k trailer even if you think you would not need it. You have made an investment in buying your tractor and equipment, as well as your truck. Why take a chance on an inferior trailer? Here is an example for you guys... I used to own a Big Tex 14LX dump trailer, 14’ long and bumper pull. I loved it, or so I thought. At auction, I came across a Lamar 16’ gooseneck dump trailer brand new, repoed. I could not pass it up, great deal. They both have the same GVWR and obviously the gooseneck is a bit heavier. Here is the thing...it pulls so much better because the weight is not all out past the bumper. I have loaded the same load of rock in each and am no longer uncomfortable while pulling it loaded. The tongue weight shift to the bed is much superior for towing. I did see the post with the RV, but he did not offer how much stuff he had loaded in the nose. It is just my two cents, but I also own a dual tandem gooseneck for bigger tractors as well as 32’ gooseneck cattle trailers. To me it is about being able to haul MORE than you plan to haul, as well as loading and strapping correctly. Leave the load on the trailer, not the truck, certainly with tongue weight. Some of that comes with knowledge, I suppose, but it is not a hard concept. All of this I use with my single wheel F350 with no issues.

 

[Xfaxman]

How do you establish the actual tongue weight?

Don't know where you are located but I used the drive on scales at the local Co-op.

It is easier at a truck stop, with their 3 separate scales.

This is how I weighed my empty trailer:

And the empty tongue weight:

 

[Gord Baker]

The Towing Capacity is likely on a sticker on the drivers door Pillar. Instead of guessing, get the equipment weighed or contact the Dealer.

 

[RaydaKub]

My b-i-l just drove from the Black Hills up the Al-Can highway to Soldotna, finishing on Saturday evening. He used his F150 w/ the 3.5L EcoBoost (larger of the 2) to pull a 10k rated trailer. No tractor, but loaded with UTV, 2 chest freezers, a dozen tubs of powder, ammunition, tools, whatever heavy stuff he needed to move. I believe it may have been close to the ratings, knowing what he had and what he does. There are numerous grades on that road that are not enjoyable. The F150 pulled the trailer just fine, but the tow/haul mode doesn't do squat on a 10% 3 mile long grade going down. There is just no engine braking from that little 6 cylinder like you would get from a bigger V8 (gas or diesel). He had traded off an F250 diesel a year ago because he didn't think he needed it anymore. The F150 got the job done, but after that 10% grade, it flashed up a large wrench on the dash. They pulled over at the next cell phone signal and called a couple dealers, but they couldn't diagnose it over the phone. The nearest dealer on their Covid-restricted route was 900 miles ahead. They let it cool down an hour (engine, transmission, AND brakes), then continued. No more wrench, but it sure made them nervous the rest of the trip. Help is not around the corner. I guess my point is that I think tow ratings are for bragging rights, not necessarily function.