Tractor rebuild project

   / Tractor rebuild project
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#11  
Problem root caused!

Removed the crank assembly and found the problem. The middle connecting rod bearing had fused to the crank journal. Wow, the previous owner said it was a connecting rod bearing and he was right. I still don't know a lot about engines but I'd think there could be many things that could cause engine seizure. How'd he know that was the problem?

The lighting is bad but the first pic shows the scoring and melted metal on the crank. The 3rd picture shows what connecting rod bearings look like. Really just C-shaped metal sleeves. I was expecting something a bit more elaborate.
 

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   / Tractor rebuild project
  • Thread Starter
#12  
I got my first cost scare when I priced a new crankshaft. $1700!

I took the engine parts to an engine machine shop to see what needed to be done. Hoping that they can tell me what to do and do something with the exiting crankshaft. BTW, the place is The Engine Shop in Longmont, CO. Great guy.

To make a long story short, the machinist thought that the connecting rod bearings were new. They had been installed incorrectly or not pre-lubed and they seized up right away. He said that they did exactly what they are supposed to do. If there is excess friction they are supposed to seize up and kill the engine motion rather than let something catch and bust out of the engine block.


One cylinder was .010 oversize, one .020 oversize, one .040 oversize. The machinist rebored the cylinders .020 oversize first putting a sleeve into the cylinder that was .040 oversize. He also reground the valves and was able to polish off the messed up the crank journal. I bought .020 oversize pistons and rings, gasket set, and a new oil pump just because I had everything opened up. I probably paid more than had I purchased a rebuild engine but I wanted to rebuilt the engine myself. Heck, if I would have had to purchase a new crankshaft, that would have cost more than a rebuilt engine.
 
   / Tractor rebuild project
  • Thread Starter
#13  
I think that this project is interesting not only for the learning experience but the mystery of how the engine got in the condition that it's in.

Recall that many of the engine bolts had been removed at one point and I found a used head gasket. However, the frame bolts had not been moved before (unless they were painted over afterward which is unlikely) nor had many of the bolts around the steering pedestal. I suspected that someone had replaced the head gasket while the engine was still in the tractor. Further evidence of such work were the weld marks on the upper frame. See picture.

But with the machinist view that the connecting rod bearings were actually new, it appears that someone had tried to replace them with the motor on the tractor. And unfortunately, did it wrong. Poor guy. Did this work, filled it with fluids, started it, and siezed up probably almost immediately. Guy probably got fed up with it and sold it.

The second question is why an engine with less that 600 hrs would need this kind of work and what caused the cylinders to be enlarged. The machinist proposed that it was run without changing air filter or even without filter for extended period of time.
 

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   / Tractor rebuild project
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#14  
Just in case I wasn't clear, I think that the weld marks indicate that someone cut the frame to get access the engine rather than go through the extensive labor of removing the pedestal and cracking the tractor. Then they welded the frame back together.
 
   / Tractor rebuild project
  • Thread Starter
#15  
The machinist allowed me to install the crank bearings, pistons, and camshaft in his shop under his supervision. I then brought the block home and put the rest of the engine together and painted it.

These pics show the engine fresh back from the machine shop. The first pic is right after I installed the rear main seal. The big gear on the left side drives the hydraulic pump.
 

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   / Tractor rebuild project
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#16  
More pictures of the reassembly and final, newly painted engine.
 

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   / Tractor rebuild project
  • Thread Starter
#17  
I reinstalled the engine back in the front half of the tractor hooking up the radiator, fuel, and electrical console. Turned the key and the glow plugs fired. Turned the key again and blew the main 40amp fuse. Rigged up a 40amp circuit breaker and blew the breaker every time I moved the key to start. So I wired up a temporary switch between the battery and starter/solenoid connection. Used the key to ignite glow plugs and used switch to engage starter. The engine turned. And turned and turned. The air bleed valve didn't seem to be doing much so I removed one of the injector lines. After a lot of cranking, fuel finally began coming out of injector line. Hooked it back up and the engine sputtered and came to life! Sounds great. It was pretty thrilling I must admit.

Major mistake #1 coming up. I brought my wife out the next morning to show it off to her. I went through the key and temporary switch process. It was a little hard to start but it fired and sounds fantastic. She was impressed but for some reason lost interest after about 10 min or so. Hey, I could have listened to the thing for hours. I let it run about 20 minutes and then turned it off. There was still a clicking sound after I turned off they key and shut the engine down. Oh no. What is that? Something rattling around in the engine? I go over to the other side. Sounded like what a car sounds like when you try to start with a very low battery. Oh no. In my excitement showing my wife the engine start, I forgot to turn off the temporary starter toggle switch! The starter had been running for 20 min and drained the battery. Not only that but it was blistering hot. Not only that but when I added power from the car battery, the starter still wouldn't turn :(. I'd burnt out the starter. Stupid.

I left for work and called my local dealer to inquire about a new starter fearing the worst. Even that fear was on the low side. $650 for a new starter. Ugh. And it would take a week to get here. I said I'd have to think about that. I'm a lucky guy because I found a place online that sold me a new one, same brand, for $89. I even splurged and paid an extra $60 for overnight delivery.

I got back home and tried to start it again with the original starter. It worked! I hadn't burned it out after all but it had just been too hot before.

I combined the front and back of the tractor, installing the electrical connections the proper way and the key now functions properly. Not sure what the problem was. The key in start position shouldn't have done anything. There are two lock out switches, one on the shuttle shifter and one on the gear selector. I didn't have those connected previously because they were on the back tractor half harness. Don't know why the result would be fuse blowing rather than no action. But problem solved when all wires connected.

Several days later, it was struggling to start and I thought what the heck, I bought the new starter, I might as well use it. I installed it and it turned much faster. The engine now fires right away.

To make myself feel better, I now think that it started slowly from when I first tried it. The starter was probably on it's last legs when I got the tractor and before I ran it 20 minutes straight.
 
   / Tractor rebuild project #19  
My hat is off to you! That's an inspiring story, with a great outcome. I admire your organized approach, attention to detail and courage. And, in the end, you're going to have a great tractor to be proud of. Thanks so much for sharing it, with pictures, no less. Best wishes as you complete the project.
 
   / Tractor rebuild project #20  
None of these one-uppers with 5000 trucks or 900 Kubota tractors here can top that. Most excellent. Thank you for sharing.
 

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