trail clearing technique and tools

[ArlyA]

I haven't read all 30 pages of this thread so apologies if you mentioned it, but who owns/operates this trail system? Is all this equipment your own personal?
The only groomed XC/snowshoe trails here are private ones run by resorts (though some are open to the public). Those activities as well as dogsleds are permitted on snowmobile trails though. Most of those are on private property where owners have given permission, and are maintained by local clubs (with financial help from the state).

There are trails for non-motorized recreation in the national forest, but these aren't groomed.

We have National forest here which is groomed by the NFS but there lack of knowledge and equipment really shows up. We tried to help them but gave up tring, at least this time.

All the machinery you see in the pics I post, is our personal tools.

Today we are grooming XC trails located on privet property that the owners sold the access rights to the public.

 

[ArlyA]

Back to a National forest trail at Lake Ste Kathryn which we care for. There today to check on its condition and hope to get back as soon as we can camp there. Won't be long! We do this to see how many dead-falls came down over the winter. This is important to do and see what tools to bring and the volume of work.

Seen our 1st within 200 yards.

This very large branch just missed the kiosk. This will be pole saw cut.

Not going to post all we seen here today but seems we can clear this trail in one weekend there. May have been 12 fallen across there trail with just one of real size, at about 16" in diameter. Was a great day to hike around it!

What are you doing in preparation of trail work this summer?

 

[ArlyA]

To reiterate, I hoped this thread was to discuss the tools and technique of clearing, or keeping clear your trails. Feel free to post any questions concerning that.

 

[Cycledude]

Why is dog standing on railing ?

 

[CADplans]

Why is dog standing on railing ?

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, dry feet,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

 

[DieselBound]

I wish to ask a question about creating/clearing a NEW path. If not appropriate just let me know...

I have an area in which I have a bunch of old tree trunks/debris laying on the ground, under brush and whatnot. Ground is far to soft to use any wheeled or tracked equipment on. I want to cut out sections of such material in order to have a reasonable smooth pathway. Largest trunk might be 2' dia?

Only thing I can think of is to use a chainsaw with a trash bar and chain. Have never done such before, though I've cut pretty close to the ground and a bit into much before.

Here's a sample of what I'm looking at (I've already been through here an cut out/down a lot of blackberries- I try to keep from cutting salmon berries as they're native; and, I rescue all maple saplings I can). Logs/debris aren't visible- most lies further in in this area, past the closest trees in the foreground (alder on the left and hemlock or fir on the right).

 

[DieselBound]

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, dry feet,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Seems that that's the last thing my dogs wants, as she's always in water!

 

[ArlyA]

I wish to ask a question about creating/clearing a NEW path. If not appropriate just let me know...

I have an area in which I have a bunch of old tree trunks/debris laying on the ground, under brush and whatnot. Ground is far to soft to use any wheeled or tracked equipment on. I want to cut out sections of such material in order to have a reasonable smooth pathway. Largest trunk might be 2' dia?

Only thing I can think of is to use a chainsaw with a trash bar and chain. Have never done such before, though I've cut pretty close to the ground and a bit into much before.

Here's a sample of what I'm looking at (I've already been through here an cut out/down a lot of blackberries- I try to keep from cutting salmon berries as they're native; and, I rescue all maple saplings I can). Logs/debris aren't visible- most lies further in in this area, past the closest trees in the foreground (alder on the left and hemlock or fir on the right).
View attachment 740898

We are used to the northern hardwoods we have here, so anything I say you need to take with a grain of salt. Your low ground can be cleared but it will take elbow grease. Do you plan to put in board walks or corduroy in these wet area's afterwards? if you don't, you be making ponds of mud were you walk.

You might need to layer the clearing jobs and you did say the width you'd like. From your photo, I'd guess at least 6ft wide or the brush will give you grief.

1st is hire help, have then wear mud boots and give them loppers to clear the small brush that's to small for other tools.
Whatever is cut needs to be removed from the area or your next job with become $#!*&.

2nd job is to go through with heavy strings (.155 or larger) and cut the brush-weeds that's to small for the loppers. Again wear mud boots.

3rd is go through with your chain saw or steel bladed weed whacker.. I'm a fan of pole saws for clearing trees against the ground and yes, clearing trails dulls chains left and right. Again, whatever is cut needs to be removed from the area or your next job with become $#!*&.

 

[ArlyA]

Why is dog standing on railing ?

Wally was told to be there. We do train our dogs.

 

[CADplans]

I have an area in which I have a bunch of old tree trunks/debris laying on the ground, under brush and whatnot. Ground is far to soft to use any wheeled or tracked equipment on. I want to cut out sections of such material in order to ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

If the ground is that soft,, the FIRST thing you need to do is ,,,
CHECK to see if it is legal to disturb the area!!

I lived in Massachusetts in 1980, with an IDENTICAL area next to my home.
It was against the law to disturb that area in any way,, PERIOD!

If I would have done anything, there would have been a big fine, and restoration costs.
My experience was over 40 years ago,, many places have become more strict during that time.

 

[kenmbz]

For heavy brush with thick and thorny vines and bushes in wet areas I use boots and a Stihl FS110 with handlebars (brushcutter) with circular blades.
Have cleared about and acre this way.

 

[ArlyA]

Suppose I should add why you commonly see our mutts in the "trail clearing photos" we post. That's because they are always in the field with us. They are socialized and listen to our commands.

In all of there photos, the dogs were told to be in them. The black one, we had to put down this winter when she was 14 and her arthritis got to bad.

 

[Rockbadchild]

cool thread … i have been clearing trails as long as i can remember ether at my uncle trap line, for hunting, fishing or to go get fire wood …this winter i have been making some trails at my new property for the only purpose of having trails to walk or bike on and while being able to enjoying the property to its full extent. I simply use chain saws and axes, lately I bought a machete I really like using it, it is dangerous tho ….

I really like your pole saws how powerful do they feel ? do they chew down a tree pretty quickly ? because i’ve notice you are cutting pretty big trees with them it’s pretty impressive.

my dad customise a skills saw blade for it to fit his weed waker they work really well the rpm on it it’s crazy you actually have to watch to not over rev but i understand with your rocks situation you can’t use such thing …

 

[ArlyA]

cool thread … i have been clearing trails as long as i can remember ether at my uncle trap line, for hunting, fishing or to go get fire wood …this winter i have been making some trails at my new property for the only purpose of having trails to walk or bike on and while being able to enjoying the property to its full extent. I simply use chain saws and axes, lately I bought a machete I really like using it, it is dangerous tho ….

I really like your pole saws how powerful do they feel ? do they chew down a tree pretty quickly ? because i’ve notice you are cutting pretty big trees with them it’s pretty impressive.

my dad customise a skills saw blade for it to fit his weed waker they work really well the rpm on it it’s crazy you actually have to watch to not over rev but i understand with your rocks situation you can’t use such thing …

Pole-saws have pretty small bars, like 10"? Which doesn't take very many CC's to power. Where the power head does need HP is running those .155 or larger string heads. There extra HP was one of the reasons we got a Stihl kombi KM 131 R.

Another reason we don't run steel brush cutting heads anymore is there cutting radius is just so, so small. Seems they took forever to get three feet. A large string head cutting radius is something like 16". Ask if you'd like to go out and actually measure it.

 

[DieselBound]

For heavy brush with thick and thorny vines and bushes in wet areas I use boots and a Stihl FS110 with handlebars (brushcutter) with circular blades.
Have cleared about and acre this way.

I've got hundreds of hours doing clearing work (early years I used a machete- was VERY effective): most is clearing invasive blackberries (they suffocate everything)- I figure that I'm doing a net good, so any folks worried about whether I'm running afoul of the law can relax- I've got it handled Because I'm working around a lot of saplings and native stuff I wish to be real selective, something that's a bit hard to do with power tools/trimmers. Believe it or not I'm currently using some small, short-handled loppers (Fiskars): also have been using some hand pruners (diving into woodsy areas to battle blackberries and not for path creation). Right now It's the stuff that's laying on the ground that I am concerned with (for this path). Just wondering if there's something other than a chainsaw that can be used to cut chunks out in which to create a pathway* (sounds like not). My boot of preference: Muck Boot "Wetlands."

* Path is for maintenance, for getting through areas to maintain my future trees [saplings]. Native trees vs invasive species- I think I'm OK with that. Besides, absolutely no one else (other than myself or my dog is going to use these paths), it's not somewhere where anyone is going to "discover" them.

 

[airbiscuit]

Is it dry enough to use a hand operated rotary cutter? If so, cut the big stuff and clear the downed stuff, and mow away. Your chainsaw can take a lot of abuse if you (mostly) keep it out of the dirt. Cut the stumps off nearly flush to the ground.

 

[Rockbadchild]

I've got hundreds of hours doing clearing work (early years I used a machete- was VERY effective): most is clearing invasive blackberries (they suffocate everything)- I figure that I'm doing a net good, so any folks worried about whether I'm running afoul of the law can relax- I've got it handled Because I'm working around a lot of saplings and native stuff I wish to be real selective, something that's a bit hard to do with power tools/trimmers. Believe it or not I'm currently using some small, short-handled loppers (Fiskars): also have been using some hand pruners (diving into woodsy areas to battle blackberries and not for path creation). Right now It's the stuff that's laying on the ground that I am concerned with (for this path). Just wondering if there's something other than a chainsaw that can be used to cut chunks out in which to create a pathway* (sounds like not). My boot of preference: Muck Boot "Wetlands."

* Path is for maintenance, for getting through areas to maintain my future trees [saplings]. Native trees vs invasive species- I think I'm OK with that. Besides, absolutely no one else (other than myself or my dog is going to use these paths), it's not somewhere where anyone is going to "discover" them.

i wouldn’t think there is something else … chainsaw is the way to go

 

[kenmbz]

I use a pole saw.
I found an interesting use for my machete. When I see poison ivy vines on trees, I use it to cut a small (2") chunk out of the base. Seems to kill the vine pretty quick.

Did that on about 30-40 trees and so far did not get any of the oils on me.

Just have to be careful to cut at angle away from yourself.

Then I take the machete, cover it with some Palmolive soap and wash with hot water at a trickle so it doesn't splash. Dry it out and ready to go for some more vines.

 

[ArlyA]

Is it dry enough to use a hand operated rotary cutter? If so, cut the big stuff and clear the downed stuff, and mow away. Your chainsaw can take a lot of abuse if you (mostly) keep it out of the dirt. Cut the stumps off nearly flush to the ground.

We are not advocates of walk behind mowers and the reasons for that follows.

These don't not cut against the ground and leave little stumps for walkers to trip on or pop the tire on your atv. They are also hard to operate on rough, uneven ground. We know folks who tried one and later said, "I'll new run one of those again". If you use one, then come back later to cut the grass or brush lower, the little stumps are terrible to deal with.

 

[airbiscuit]

If you mow at least once a year, those little stumps turn into a grassy trail after about 3 years.