trailer build

   / trailer build #11  
I'm assuming they are electric brakes so go to any trailer parts dealer or even an RV center and buy the brake switch to match up to your system. NAPA will carry them too.
 
   / trailer build #12  
Did you follow what I was trying to describe in my tilting idea? After reading my reply it wasn't real clear.

Build the subframe to mount your axles/hitch. Cut subframe off just behind your axles. Build the bed and the pivot point will be at the rear of the subframe. The weight of the subframe hitch and so forth will add enough weight to the front that it will still have proper tongue weight to pull good empty and with the tractor loaded, you can distribute the weight by how far you drive the tractor forward.
 
   / trailer build #13  
Okay,another question.I got the axel installed (3500#) with electric brakes on it QUOTE]

Is this a single axle trailer? If yes I think you are going to be overweight with only a 3500# axle:eek: I think a Farmall 100 weighs around 3000#, The trailer will be much more than 500#, so your overloaded. A 5k axle would be minimum. I would recommend tandem axles, unless you have a rather large tow vehicle. Much safer.

Bill
 
   / trailer build
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Yes I did understand what you were describing 6011 Artist, but I don't want to add more weight to it though. The 100 with out wheel weights tips the scale at 2785#.Yes it's a single axel trailer made of 3" square tubing 5'6"x10' no ramps, expanded metal decking,1 1/2" railing three sides.Two of us can pick up the frame(without axel) easily.Well if worse comes to worse it can all be changed!
 
   / trailer build #16  
Okay,another question.I got the axel installed (3500#) with electric brakes on it,they seemed to be a little corroded up as it had been sitting out several years so, I pulled the drums off and cleaned them up with brake cleaner as it had been over greased a few times in the past. The axel had come off a 35' fifth wheel trailer.Now what type of brake controller should I get? Or does it make any difference?

Since I don't know what you experience / knowledge base is I will ask if you installed it with the front facing forward?

That might be something some guys wouldn't think about.
 
   / trailer build #17  
Yes I did understand what you were describing 6011 Artist, but I don't want to add more weight to it though. The 100 with out wheel weights tips the scale at 2785#.Yes it's a single axel trailer made of 3" square tubing 5'6"x10' no ramps, expanded metal decking,1 1/2" railing three sides.Two of us can pick up the frame(without axel) easily.Well if worse comes to worse it can all be changed!

The Farmall 100 is listed as length: 107 inches. If your trailer bed is 120 in. less the 1 1/2 in rail you don't have much wiggle room. In order to have the correct tongue weight, you need to know the exact place to locate the axle. If the trailer were longer you could move the tractor front to rear in order to adjust your tongue weight. Dexter Axle has advice on tongue weight on it's web site. Generally I have found that 60/40% works pretty well, in this case your mileage may vary.
Unless your cross members are very strong and very close together, I don't think you will be happy with expanded metal for your floor. In order to spread the footprint out over several cross members something with less flex is required. Most equipment trailers use 1/8 diamond plate or 1 1/2 in wood decking.
If you wish to lengthen the trailer without a total redesign you could add a 2 ft beaver tail.
Most states require trailers over 3,000# be inspected. You will need a break away system for the electric brakes. If you register the trailer for the max. (3,500#) I still think your going to be way over weight.

Best, Bill
 
   / trailer build
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Some sound advice here gentlemen,I'll do some more revising!
 
   / trailer build #19  
building a single axle trailer to pull equipment is not a good idea. If you lose a tire it could put you into a bad situation. Braking with one trailer axle is not much with a full load. Going down the road it will look like a teetertotter if you don't load it heavy to the pulling unit. two axles will stablize it much better and braking will be double which is a big deal if you are going down hill or need to do a panic stop. A loaded trailer will jacknife you in a heartbeat if it doesn't have some good braking.
 
   / trailer build #20  
If you build close to the axles weight rating , the chance of breakage is high. A big bump in a turn could overload the axle with horrible results. A tandem axle setup is safer or go to a 4000 or 5200 pd axle . Two 2500 pd will be plenty without a horrible empty ride..
 

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