trailer build

[augercreek]

Well I need some opinions.I'm building a trailer to haul my Farmall 100 around to shows and tractor rides and I'd like to make it tilt so I don't need ramps to load and unload.That seems easy enough,but when reloading the tractor I think the bed will want to tilt back up before the rear wheels have started on up.How would I prevent this from happening?
Your brother in Christ Jerry

 

[davedj1]

gas struts or a good gas shock, hydraulics?

 

[DutchHenryBrown]

I have looked at the tilt trailers and for the life of me right now I cannot remember what they had if anything to keep that from happening?

 

[pjbci]

The one i looked at before just had a double acting hyd cyl plumbed back into itself with a flow restrictor in the line.

 

[Attono]

It would need hydraulics or the thing would slam down as you were unloading and the rear wheels rolled off. I'd just do the ramps. <><

 

[mikehaugen]

We rented a trailer a while back (probably 10-15 years) and it had an actual floor jack built into the the frame just behind where the tongue met the main frame. It was kind slow, but it worked. Not sure how it went high enough now thinking back. It also was factory I believe because it was a rental, but I have never seen one like it since.

 

[cycle_gator]

My flatbed equipment trailer, tilt bed, has a dampened hydraulic cylinder on it. The other trick is to keep the hinges forward, not right at the back, I would need to look for sure, but I think mine hinges just behind the rear set of wheels. That way, she will not even think about starting down until the front wheels are in front of the
pivot, hinge, point. In fact, I have to drive on a long way before she starts to tip back down, so maybe the hinge is even between the two axles.

 

[augercreek]

Oh, I like the dampened hydraulic cylinder idea.Maybe a shut off valve in the line so it stays up?I also have a small hand pump that could be plumbed in the system or just used to extend a single acting cylinder.Wow you guys got my creative juices flowing now!
Thanks guys

 

[6011Artist]

My FIL had a trailer for hauling lawn mowers that tilted and was heavy on the rear just enough to keep the bed tilted when empty. It was balanced enough that just slight pressure from your hand would bring it back down and lock the front into place. The overall trailer had enough tongue weight it pulled good loaded or empty.

I've thought about building one like it but built heavier for hauling tractors. If I did it I'd build a trailer sub frame to mount my wheels and axles on and then build a bed seperately. I'd then place my bed onto the lower frame and figure out my pivot point and then build hinges to secure the bed to the lower frame. By doing this there is a good bit of empty trailer behind the tractor after getting it loaded but it works well. And you can even load a lightweight trailer on it too, the weight of the tractor will still cause it to lower itself down and lock into place.

I have an older friend that basically adds another tongue under the original one complete with another ball and coupler. When he wants to tilt his, he backs it up to tilt the bed but then puts a farm jack under it to hold the trailer in a raised position. When reloading, he drives the tractor onto the trailer getting all 4 wheels on the trailer and then takes the jack out, and then drives the tractor the rest of the way up on the trailer. It works but is not the best rig by any means.

Since you are building from scratch, figure out your balance point and let it balance by it's own weight.

 

[augercreek]

Okay,another question.I got the axel installed (3500#) with electric brakes on it,they seemed to be a little corroded up as it had been sitting out several years so, I pulled the drums off and cleaned them up with brake cleaner as it had been over greased a few times in the past. The axel had come off a 35' fifth wheel trailer.Now what type of brake controller should I get? Or does it make any difference?

 

[6011Artist]

I'm assuming they are electric brakes so go to any trailer parts dealer or even an RV center and buy the brake switch to match up to your system. NAPA will carry them too.

 

[6011Artist]

Did you follow what I was trying to describe in my tilting idea? After reading my reply it wasn't real clear.

Build the subframe to mount your axles/hitch. Cut subframe off just behind your axles. Build the bed and the pivot point will be at the rear of the subframe. The weight of the subframe hitch and so forth will add enough weight to the front that it will still have proper tongue weight to pull good empty and with the tractor loaded, you can distribute the weight by how far you drive the tractor forward.

 

[Notforhire]

Okay,another question.I got the axel installed (3500#) with electric brakes on it QUOTE]

Is this a single axle trailer? If yes I think you are going to be overweight with only a 3500# axle I think a Farmall 100 weighs around 3000#, The trailer will be much more than 500#, so your overloaded. A 5k axle would be minimum. I would recommend tandem axles, unless you have a rather large tow vehicle. Much safer.

Bill

 

[augercreek]

Yes I did understand what you were describing 6011 Artist, but I don't want to add more weight to it though. The 100 with out wheel weights tips the scale at 2785#.Yes it's a single axel trailer made of 3" square tubing 5'6"x10' no ramps, expanded metal decking,1 1/2" railing three sides.Two of us can pick up the frame(without axel) easily.Well if worse comes to worse it can all be changed!

 

[Notforhire]

I would suggest you read http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/trailers-transportation/272532-single-axle-trailering-cut.html it covers the subject of single axle trailers pretty well.

Best, Bill

 

[Xfaxman]

Okay,another question.I got the axel installed (3500#) with electric brakes on it,they seemed to be a little corroded up as it had been sitting out several years so, I pulled the drums off and cleaned them up with brake cleaner as it had been over greased a few times in the past. The axel had come off a 35' fifth wheel trailer.Now what type of brake controller should I get? Or does it make any difference?

Since I don't know what you experience / knowledge base is I will ask if you installed it with the front facing forward?

That might be something some guys wouldn't think about.

 

[Notforhire]

Yes I did understand what you were describing 6011 Artist, but I don't want to add more weight to it though. The 100 with out wheel weights tips the scale at 2785#.Yes it's a single axel trailer made of 3" square tubing 5'6"x10' no ramps, expanded metal decking,1 1/2" railing three sides.Two of us can pick up the frame(without axel) easily.Well if worse comes to worse it can all be changed!

The Farmall 100 is listed as length: 107 inches. If your trailer bed is 120 in. less the 1 1/2 in rail you don't have much wiggle room. In order to have the correct tongue weight, you need to know the exact place to locate the axle. If the trailer were longer you could move the tractor front to rear in order to adjust your tongue weight. Dexter Axle has advice on tongue weight on it's web site. Generally I have found that 60/40% works pretty well, in this case your mileage may vary.
Unless your cross members are very strong and very close together, I don't think you will be happy with expanded metal for your floor. In order to spread the footprint out over several cross members something with less flex is required. Most equipment trailers use 1/8 diamond plate or 1 1/2 in wood decking.
If you wish to lengthen the trailer without a total redesign you could add a 2 ft beaver tail.
Most states require trailers over 3,000# be inspected. You will need a break away system for the electric brakes. If you register the trailer for the max. (3,500#) I still think your going to be way over weight.

Best, Bill

 

[augercreek]

Some sound advice here gentlemen,I'll do some more revising!

 

[plumbstraight]

building a single axle trailer to pull equipment is not a good idea. If you lose a tire it could put you into a bad situation. Braking with one trailer axle is not much with a full load. Going down the road it will look like a teetertotter if you don't load it heavy to the pulling unit. two axles will stablize it much better and braking will be double which is a big deal if you are going down hill or need to do a panic stop. A loaded trailer will jacknife you in a heartbeat if it doesn't have some good braking.

 

[busy dad]

If you build close to the axles weight rating , the chance of breakage is high. A big bump in a turn could overload the axle with horrible results. A tandem axle setup is safer or go to a 4000 or 5200 pd axle . Two 2500 pd will be plenty without a horrible empty ride..