Trailer choices

[American Pit Bull]

2*A land scape trailer is to light duty to handle a BX.
You need at least a 7000 pound rated 2 axle traler with brakes on all 4 wheels.

Did I miss something, or was the OP talking about hauling a total of ~ 2200lb. BX1860/MMM/FEL?

 

[TripleR]

Did I miss something, or was the OP talking about hauling a total of ~ 2200lb. BX1860/MMM/FEL?

No, you just missed several old threads and this is always predictable. Some seem to think a certain weight if it is a "tractor" is different than the same weight of anything else. I will continue to do what I have safely done for many years. Some on here seem to think the rest of us have never been away from home before.

 

[radioman]

Did I miss something, or was the OP talking about hauling a total of ~ 2200lb. BX1860/MMM/FEL?

No you didnt miss something. Its how lbrown thinks. He does way overkill on everything, for something he doesnt use very much. Try doing a search on his posts :thumbsup:. there are over 10000 posts he made.

 

[LBrown59]

I presume you just want to brag about your belongings

Nope :Just looking for the facts.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Nope :Just looking for the facts.

Do what? Giving answers like they are absolutes are not looking they are telling. Looking (seeking,learning) Telling (educating, pontificating) See the difference?
Facts........are you sure about that one? Your looking for facts???? Maybe you aren't reading your posts. Click your profile and read your posts and then come back with how many are looking for facts and how many are telling like you have the absolute answer concerning equipment you don't own.

 

[megaboz]

Well, I will take a chance and see if my head gets bit off too. Personally a bigger trailer has many advantages and a couple of dis-advantages.

Personally I have a BX 24 and I bought an 18 foot car hauler with a 2 foot dove tail. Yes it is overkill, but I also have hauled two vehicles with it as well,, and that was part of my original plan.

One of the advantages of a biggger trailer is loading your equipment in a more balanced configuration. On a small trailer the load is where it fits. So you might have a 1000 lb tongue weight, not good on most light weight vehicles unless you like looking skyward. Most hitches are not rated for that much weight.

Brakes are nice to have especially if your load is almost as much as your tow vehicle. I have watched a 3000 lb load push the tow vehicle (2wd s-10) down a hill and into the ditch because the tow vehicle did have enough traction to hold the weight. (It was down a gravel road).

Dis-advantages, they're bigger, take up more storage space.

Wood or Metal, Metal is slicker, but I also don't get splinters!:thumbsup:

 

[robs660]

When towing a tractor I would only recommend a duel axel with brakes. As someone else stated, you will get into a LOT of trouble should you have a tire failure. Additionally, you will get a smoother tow, and you will have less wear on your truck. I agree with the folks who choose wood over metal. Everything seems to shift and there is extra maintenance with metal.
The short of it, I know that the initial investment of the trailer will be higher, but it will be much cheaper then a flipped tractor, or wrecked truck. (Speaking from experience) Had a blow out on my duel axel 12K trailer and spun 180 degrees with a tractor on the trailer. I lost 2 tires, and walked away without any major issues. I have a mason friend that blew a tire with a dingo on a single axel trailer. Trailer took his dodge 2500 for a ride and ended up bent.

 

[Jaylegger]

No matter how well intentioned I firmly feel that those arguing that a dual axle 7000# GVWR is required for a 2200 pound load due to improved safety due to experience with tire blowouts should be a little more diligent inspecting their tires paying much closer attention to tire pressure prior to hitting the road. The primary cause of tire failure is under-pressure. And for those who check tire pressure every year or two and replace tires every ten years I'd recommend a quad axle to provide the necessary level of safety, it's all relative.

 

[megaboz]

No matter how well intentioned I firmly feel that those arguing that a dual axle 7000# GVWR is required for a 2200 pound load due to improved safety due to experience with tire blowouts should be a little more diligent inspecting their tires paying much closer attention to tire pressure prior to hitting the road. The primary cause of tire failure is under-pressure. And for those who check tire pressure every year or two and replace tires every ten years I'd recommend a quad axle to provide the necessary level of safety, it's all relative.

I am going to agree with you to a point on this, everything you said is valid when it comes to the maintenance that most/some people do.

But while a trailer with 3500 lb axle would be sufficient to carry the tractor, what I had found when looking at the single axle trailers is that they wouldn't carry the load unless you bought a really good trailer that was properly made.

Randomly looking at the specs on a 5x10 trailer, the trailer weighed 800 lbs and with a GVWR: 2,990 LB, you are at 2190 lbs worth of cargo. While sure you could over load it a bit, you wouldn't want to do it regularly. Obviously this trailer is a little small but it goes to drive my point, a bigger trailer, more weight, one axle, less loaded recommended weight.

Most of those $900 to $1200 trailers aren't even rated for much more than 2000 lbs of loaded extra weight. Give or take some on the weight, but why buy a trailer that is barely capable of carrying the load? If you are going to get a single axle, definitely make sure the trailer can carry the load.

My biggest concern as stated above in a previous post and in this post is that the weight on a very small trailer for a tractor usually means that all the weight is on the tongue or on the opposite end. You can't tell me that a tow vehicle squatting in the rear or being lifted by a trailer is in anyway safe to use. Having a trailer loaded to the max doesn't make for safe trailering either.

While the dual axles would help in case of tire failure, that shouldn't be the reason to buy one. You should buy what will let meet your needs and let you do it safely (for you and others on the road) and allow for a little more balancing of your load so that you are actually pulling your load instead of carrying it with your bumper.

 

[Jaylegger]

For those purchasing a trailer primarily for utility type purposes wishing to keep it as small as possible but large enough to haul a sub-compact tractor on it a few times a year a twelve foot single axle trailer, depending on implements, will suffice safely. To find something suitable you may have to choose steel or aluminum and axle ratings carefully to ensure you're within specs for your particular gear weight but it can be done. Adjusting the tractor to attain the correct tongue weight may take an extra 5 minutes of jigging around but ime it can be done with little effort. I certainly understand the convenience of maximizing spare length and GVWR'ings but those luxuries, for many, need to be weighed along side many other requirements influencing the purchase decision which may be in direct conflict, and I'm not talking about $$ either.

Using myself for an example, as you might guess, was looking for a trailer to use primarily for hauling junk to the dump, picking up a few building supplies, etc. but also something potentially capable of hauling my sub-compact tractor once in awhile. I needed something relatively small for storage purposes and wanted something relatively light to be able to move it around by hand. I ended up with a 6x12 all aluminum single axle trailer certified for a 2400# payload (600 tare weight) which suits my needs perfectly including being capable of hauling the tractor safely. I could have paid less for a tandem axle steel trailer with brakes of similar dimensions but it didn't suit my needs. Aside it being just too **** heavy (pulling an extra 1000-1500 pounds of weight around unnecessarily has it's drawbacks and adds risk in itself especially for those hauling with an SUV so that is an extra area for consideration) the extra maintenance costs dealing with impending rust, two extra rims/tires and brakes surely didn't outweigh the benefits of the extra spare capacity when considering all my needs.

So I managed to find a single axle relatively small trailer which, safely, suits my needs perfectly. It can be loaded for proper tongue weight, it's easy to move around by hand, small enough to store out of sight, and surprisingly easy to haul when loaded close to it's GVWR. If I were in the business of making money with the tractor and hauling it often I'd likely invest in a larger more capable trailer which incidentally would likely also require a larger vehicle to haul and require an off-site shop to store it but that isn't what it's about for me and I suspect for a lot of people.

For those who are telling others and me that an appropriate 12 foot single axle trailer is not suitable or safe for the task I definitely do not agree.

Cheers.

 

[TripleR]

Gee from reading this I am surprised steel or single axle trailers are allowed to be built, sold or owned. Instead of concentrating on the "Gun Show Loophole" maybe congress should concern itself with the "Steel/Single Axle Trailer Loophole"; good grief.

 

[mow4fun]

Well, let me ask this then:

Can the leaves on a single axle itself be replaced to provide higher GVWR on a 6x12 or 6x14 trailer?

Hope I am not starting another uprise by asking this.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Well, let me ask this then:

Can the leaves on a single axle itself be replaced to provide higher GVWR on a 6x12 or 6x14 trailer?

Hope I am not starting another uprise by asking this.

Any question can start an uprise here. Just ask em and filter the responses to suit your application. In time you'll learn the responders that believe what they have is the only answer for everyone and the ones that what they don't have should be against the law for anyone else to have. Then you'll find a bunch of responders that give their experience and the good and bad they experienced. Some times you'll even see where someone has bought something that seems to be doing a good job for them and even sometimes someone will contribute an easier way to do something or fix something or make something that we all, well some of us want. Keep asking and stay on your feet to be prepared to duck from time to time or use the ole scroll down or delete key.

 

[megaboz]

Well I certainly hope no one thinks I am trying to put anyone down. That isn't my point.

My point is that get what you need to meet your needs, make sure it is safe for you and others on the road. If you buy a trailer just big enough to hold the tractor and keep the load as balanced as possible.

There are different factors to consider. If you are only hauling it 5 miles away, you can get away with a smaller lighter trailer, but if you are going to be hauling 100 miles a day (or something like that), then a better/bigger trailer might be wiser for safety and less wear and tear on the trailer because it is expected to haul heavier loads.

Adding stronger springs to the axles won't increase the weight capacity alone. The whole structure of the trailer may need to be upgraded. However it may be possible if the short cut to make a lighter weight trailer was only in the springs.

As for the "loop Holes", well I think the police agencies ought to look more into the people that overload the trailers and that do not have them properly loaded and improperly equiped tow vehicles. After all at 65 to 75 MPH, I consider them to be more unsafe then the people doing 90 down the interstate. I'm sure we have all seen the swaying trailers going down the road.

Also, when buying a trailer, be sure to make sure the tires that come on it are made to hold the weight. Those little wheelbarrow wheels don't cut it for heavy loads.

I found this link that has some information on laws for various states, HowStuffWorks "Trailer Towing Regulations"

 

[KeithInSpace]

There is a great trailer forum on this site that I frequent...those folks could answer your 'increasing capacity' question very accurately. If they don't own a Kubota, they may not pick up on this thread.

I've lived the dream with a 5' x 10' single axle trailer and did not enjoy it one bit for a vast variety of reasons.

There is a very slight chance that going 6' wide would make the trailer a bit more stable, but I'm not sure. I know my 5' wide trailer (rated at 3,500# capacity) was extremely tippy.

Another thing I'd consider VERY strongly is the lack of brakes. Pulling my 5' x 10' trailer sans brakes with my BX2230 with FEL and BoxBlade strapped thereon, my Expedition (capable of towing 9,000# with 4 piston floating calipers on huge vented disks in front and pretty good size pie dishes in back) had a small amount of trouble stopping the whole rig. Surprisingly heavy.

Though it seems like overkill for your truck, I'd get the lightest dual axle trailer you can find with wood deck and brakes on at least one axle. It will probably be rated for 7,000#, but just don't load it beyond the capabilities of your truck.

If you have one blowout or otherwise mess up using a small trailer (anything under 14' long and anything with a single axle I'm classifying as 'small'), adding the other $500 to get to a dual axle trailer will seem like the best money known to man.

Just my thoughts from past experience.

 

[radioman]

Hmm, adding more leafs to the trailer springs will help with the squatting, not the payload.Look at it this way- the axels and tires are the weakest link on the trailer.Before you start thinking about upgrading your current trailer to make it capable of a heavier load, not necessarly stronger- you need to look at the current rating of the axel and tires. Look at your tire rating and what does it say? lets say it rated for 1090 lbs. on a single axel its rated for 2000lbs for the trailer. adding more leafs springs will not increase the tire rating. Now what? usaully if you get better tires rated at 2000lbs each, you are usually looking at a different bolt on pattern to axel (sometimes another stud is added into the picture). OK now you got - new axels, tires, rims, leafs, reregister the trailer at higher weight rating, new vin number for trailer. For the trouble and cost, it will be more then just getting another trailer.

Sorry - I am sure this is not what you wanted to hear, not trying to spend your money, but actually hopefully I can help you save money for you the first time around.

Where is diamondpilot ? this is his favorite subject!

 

[Diamondpilot]

Thanks for the invite Radioman.

As for the original poster get a longer trailer than you think you need. It will be obvious when you go to balance the load. Also go for a dual axle trailer. There is a perfect trailer for you just down the road. Its 14' tandem with 2,000# axles for a total of 4,000# They guy can not sell it because its a specialty trailer for folks just like you but has a very limited market. I bet it would go cheap.

My experience in 20 plus years of dealing with trailers is used ones end up costing just as much as new ones. They usually need new tires, bearings, brakes, boards, paint, ect. Figure out what you need a pull the trigger. Get one with brakes and have the dealer wire your tow vehicle for trailer brakes. This should cost about $250 including the controller.

As for upgrading a current trailer it does not pay. Like others stated there will always be a weak link. Usually that is the tires. Sift through the info given here and make a wise choice. 95% of it is good and sound.

I did not catch what state you live in? I have a guide that can give me all the rules for each state and vehicle. All I need to know is the state and tow vehicles year, make, model, 4x4 or not, manual or auto, ect.

Looking at my manual its a 2010 4x4 Pilot. The max tow rating is 4,500#


Chris

 

[427ricky]

If your not going to get brakes on your 16' trailer, you should buy a bigger truck to be safe. The last thing you want is to run some one over because you could not stop. You will have a close call because ever if your cautious the other dum *** on the road will pull out in front of you and turn or stop. It's not fun gripping the wheel tightly and heading for the shoulder so you don't rearend some idiot.

 

[mow4fun]

I did not catch what state you live in? I have a guide that can give me all the rules for each state and vehicle. All I need to know is the state and tow vehicles year, make, model, 4x4 or not, manual or auto, ect.

Looking at my manual its a 2010 4x4 Pilot. The max tow rating is 4,500#


Chris

I am in NJ and the truck is a 2010 Honda Pilot AWD.

 

[megaboz]

I am in NJ and the truck is a 2010 Honda Pilot AWD.

Wow, with about a 4300 lb vehicle and towing about 3500 lbs (tractor plus trailer) not a real good weight ratio for a trailer without brakes. At least in my opinion.

Again may not be that big of a deal depending on when you do tow, distance towing, and terrain you will be towing on. Any steep mountain roads on gravel could be scary.

Once or twice a year usauge really doesn't point to the fact of getting a bigger trailer.

But as another poster mentioned, there is a lot of good info in this thread and most of it is pretty much true. There are a few experiences as well that hopefully gives you what you need to make a decision.

For towing a 4wheeler, a big trailer, like a 16 footer will look pretty funny. I have an 18' trailer and a 5x10, my 4wheeler looks funny on the big trailer:laughing:, but pretty much fills up the 5x10.