Trailer for a B2410

[RBrown]

I am looking for a trailer for my B2410. I will only be hauling the tractor(tires not filled), with the loader, for short distances and maybe only 4 or 5 times per year. I recently visited my local trailer dealer and he pointed me towards a heavy duty single axle trailer that is 12 ft. long and 6 1/2 ft. wide with a rear gate that doubles as a ramp. The capacity of the trailer is 3,500 lbs. and has removable steel sides. It is also priced at $850 which fits well with what I want to spend. He also had some tandem axle car haulers with a single axle brake at the same price. However the trailers were not built as well and it came with used tires and standard rims. I can really never picture myself hauling a car and I would rather pay more for what I need and get quality rather than quantity. I am wondering if anyone has any experience with the 2410 and trailers. Is this the right way to go?

 

[geneP]

I'm not an expert in this area, but I've pulled a few trailers. I think the pulling vehicle will have an impact on the trailer you choose. A lighter vehicle will benefit from the enhanced load distribution the tandem will provide, AND the brakes will be a big plus to me. It will be difficult to position the tractor on a single axle trailer so that yu have the correct tongue weight for your truck. I understand that the axle is placed 60% to the rear. This arrangement could place a great deal of weight on a light/medium duty truck, and the loader will only add to the bumper weight. I understand you will be pulling short distances and infrequently, but a tandem really pulls better...and your tandem candidate has brakes.

 

[W5FL]

A 16 foot tandem with brakes and a brake controller in the towing vehicle is a much better setup. They sell them with new tires and the cost is just a little more. 4 tires are worth $100 new. If you ever need to haul it with a box blade or mower, the additional room will be welcome. My trailer is 18 feet and 12,000# GVW. A 7000# GVW is a much better combination than a 3500# trailer that by the time you add the weight of the tractor, fuel, implement, weight of trailer, etc. can easily exceed 3500#. As the previous post said, the balance and hitch weight of the tandem is better, too. Built in ramps are usually better than the fold down screens that are really made for riding lawnmowers.

 

[Bird]

I agree with the other guys; got for a tandem axle trailer unless you've had a lot of trailer towing experience and really know your weight distribution. I have a 5' x 10' single axle trailer that I hauled almost exactly 2k pounds from the state of Washington back to Texas with no problems, but we loaded carefully, weighed it, etc. For my tractor I use a 16' tandem axle trailer.

Bird

 

[WVBill]

Thanks for this thread, guys - can't tell you how good it makes me feel.

I'm heading to California from West Virginia week after next to pick up an old '74 B6100 my Father-in-law is giving me. He told me it was 12' 6" from the FEL to the back of the rototiller so I went ahead and ordered a 16 foot tandem axel trailer to pick up in California and haul it back. Now he's trying to convince me that it could easily fit on a 12 foot single axel trailer if we take the FEL bucket and the tiller off and put them in the back of the pickup.

I had deciced to stick with the 16' trailer even knowing it is overkill for the little tractor and you guys just confirmed my decision.

Can't wait to get the tractor home and start "playing"! I'll be able to ask some real questions then rather than just sitting here like a sponge....

Thanks again.

Bill

 

[W5FL]

Maybe you will never know how good it could have made you feel! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Until you have had a trailer fishtail so violently that you have a hard time keeping the car on the highway until you can slow down or due to weight distribution, the trailer just whips the car around, you may not appreciate having the tandem back there. At highway speeds this can get serious very quickly.

People pulling the single axle travel trailers soon learned the tandems pulled much better even though the weigh distribution was pretty good.

You made the right decision.

 

[Alan L.]

I pull my B2710 with a 16-foot tandem trailer with no brakes. It cost $900.

 

[Bird]

WVBill, of course, I agree with all the other guys. I wouldn't want to mislead you (and since you mention the word "overkill" I don't guess we have). Your father-in-law is right; you can do it on the 12' trailer if you load it properly, and if there's a good enough reason (money?) for doing that, but I know you'll be a lot happier with the rig if you leave the implements on the tractor and put it on a tandem 16' trailer.

And Alan, I, too, use a 16' tandem trailer without brakes, but only because my brother bought this trailer and gave it to me. I prefer one with brakes, but I also live in an area with far less traffic than most of the rest of you are accustomed to seeing, seldom need to tow it very far, and don't need to be in any hurry when I'm towing it. I haven't kept up with traffic laws and standards the last few years, but there used to be a standard recommendation for brakes on any trailer that weighed 40% or more of the weight of the towing vehicle.

Week before last, we were coming down I-35 from Dallas (in the car) behind an 18-wheeler when he slammed on his brakes, ran all over the road, and even off the pavement. My wife got excited when I got on the brakes hard, but not enough to do any skidding, and then we saw the reason that big truck braked so hard. There was the remains of a little single axle utility trailer upside down in the median and the old Ford pickup to which it had been attached upside down in the inside traffic lane. And that was a nice straight stretch of highway where no one would expect a problem./w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif

Bird

 

[Kelvin]

I have a B2150 (heavier than your B2400) with loader that I haul on my 16' trailer with two 3500 lb axles (brakes on one axle; 2x6 wood flooring) that I paid about $800 for new (with used tires). A few points...

Used tires: Not a big deal. I actually prefer decent used tires. For most people, and especially for you and the usage you describe, the tires will probably dry rot long before they wear out. I would rather let the used tires dry rot rather than watch new ones go to waste.

3500 lb Capacity: Be careful. If you check carefully I believe that the 3500 lb capacity is actually the axle rating. For loads evenly distributed on the trailer you should be able to haul close to 3500 lbs. Hauling tractors with 4 distinct pressure points (the tires) is quite a bit different.

And finally, I can't belive that anyone with a nice tractor such as the B2400 is not going to want to get a 3pt implement sometime. A 16' long trailer would be the minimum that you would want. With FEL and finish mower my B2150 fits exactly on the trailer; with the FEL and rotary mower the mower's rear wheel hangs off the end.

When loading my B2150 or even my lighter-weight B7100 I try to make sure the wheels are on top of the metal cross bars. Probably not a big deal while the 2x6s are fairly new but just a good habit to get into. I feel that the job of positioning the tractor over the cross-bars is more easily accomplished on dual axle trailer than single axle trailers (where load position is much more critical).

Kelvin

 

[Alan L.]

I too only haul my tractor 6 miles down FM 121 from my house to my land. Soon to be my house also. Very rarely do I haul it in any kind of traffic, and I pull it with a 4X4 Suburban. Brakes are nice, especially if you have that kind that uses inertia to activate, I really don't want that brake control box in the truck if I can avoid it.

 

[scruffy]

I haul my L175 with loader and scraper box on a 16 foot tandem axle trailer w/o brakes. It does have two 3500 lb axles and came with used tires on it when I bought it new. Does a great job, and the tires have held up fine. Wish I would quit scraping off the tail-light and license plate bracket though! Getting tired of replacing and or straightening the bracket with a new tail light!

 

[W5FL]

scruffy,

I noticed on my dads trailer that the tail lights are now recessed in a piece of 6 inch pipe about 4 inches long. The license plate is mounted on the rear fender. Guess he got tired of knocking them off, too. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[RBrown]

Thanks for all the great advice!! Okay, you sold me on a tandem axle trailer, however what about brakes??? I really don't want to have to purchase and install a third brake controller if I really don't need it. I would think that if others are pulling a 2710 on a tandem axle trailer without brakes, then I should be okay because the 2410 is not as heavy. What do you guys think now? Also, is Load Trail a good trailer name? I think the dealer said they were made in the great state of Texas.

 

[Bird]

RBrown, I don't know anything about "Load Trail" as a trailer brand name, so I can't help you there. But you make me very curious. I don't understand your comment about not wanting to purchase and install a "third brake controller." What are you talking about? I've had 3 trucks, 1 sedan, and 1 station wagon to which each had a single brake controller added for pulling travel trailers with electric brakes, but a "third brake controller?" What kind of vehicle are you driving?

Bird

 

[geneP]

What size truck will you be using to pull the trailer? I'd definitely say "yes" to the brake question if you are using a compact pick up, maybe "no" if you have a HD 3/4 ton and you are careful. I don't know about laws in your state, but I'd feel comfortable with that load without trailer brakes with a heavy truck.

 

[W5FL]

As Bird said, if the trailer weight plus load is 40% or greater of the towing vehicle weight, you need brakes. One axle works just fine for me. There are two types of controllers. Most late model trucks are already wired for a brake controller, and you just plug it in. If it is not, you hand the guy a $100 and he installs it and wires it up to your trailer hitch electrical plug. These controller in a digital type allow you to dial in the amount of brakes you need for your load and the time delay to wait until they are applied. Pretty nice.

Just one time do you feel the trailer pushing you into the car in front of you that stopped about 30 feet sooner than you can and the $100 seems awfully cheap.

There are also inertial switches they can mount on the trailer to actuate the brakes. I don't like them as well as the up front and easily reachable and adjustable brake controller because they are hard to adjust to your load and scare the heck out of you until they come on.

Most one ton trucks have sufficient brakes for a reasonable loaded trailer as do some heavy duty 3/4 ton trucks. Most 1/2 ton and less are not safe with a heavy trailer and the stopping distance lengthens considerably.

 

[Kelvin]

Go ahead and buy the trailer with trailer brakes and see about wiring them up later. I haven't connected my brakes up yet because I usually only travel about 5 miles one-way about 3 or 4 times a month. I do feel safe for normal opearation with a 1/2 ton pickup but feel that safety could (would?) be marginal in the event of an "emergency stop".

You might also ask about "surge brakes". These are popular on boat trailers and some rental trailers. I believe that they are more expensive than electric brakes, though. Operation: There is a cylinder installed in the tongue of the trailer such that on de-celeration the trailer attempts to push the tow vehicle the cylinder pushes hydraulic (brake) fluid to activate the brakes (the way an automotive master cylinder forces brake fluid to the automobile brakes).

 

[scruffy]

Wen, that sounds like an excellant idea to me! I must admit, it IS tiring! I've found a stump buried in a low bush, scrubbed license, tail light and bracket off, bent it enumerable times backing off the road up a slight incline, found a dead tire in the road and wiped it out, what next? At least the pipe would ****** my purchasing tail-lights!
Oh yeah, that &^%$#@ stump put a nice custom curve in my tandem axle fender....stump/bush is no longer there!

 

[W5FL]

Thanks,

My dad also suggested that I get heavy duty fenders. Now I see why. Mine are diamond plate and they are pretty hard to bend. The tires are pretty common truck tires 760x16 8 lug, but I don't yet have a spare, so hope not to have a flat. Guess I should look to see if they are Firestone tires. Nope, they are NANCO Super Highway - Whatever that is.

Also noticed that it has a break a way switch and battery to automatically apply the brakes if the trailer breaks away from the towing rig.

The ball is also 2 5/16, which is required if the GVW is over 5000#. Texas builds a lot of illegal 7000 pound trailers with 2 inch balls. They will tell you they are 7000# (two 3500# axles), but the title will NOT list it at 7000#.

 

[glennmac]

I have no experience trailering tractors, so I will indulge in a smarty-pants rhetorical question: If I only had 5 miles to trailer a few times a year, why not just drive the tractor there?

A B24xx can go about 10 mph. Thus, a 10 mile round trip would be a 1 hour tractor jaunt. In order to avoid this, is it really more efficient to: schlep a zillion pound trailer up to a vehicle; kibbitz with hitches and chains; unstash clanky ramps; drive tractor up a rickety, scary ramp; get frustrated and mash fingers with chocks and blocks and more chains; stash back ramps; drive 5 miles; repeat all the above; do your tractoring; repeat all the above twice on the way back. Plus you have to spend probably 50 hours shopping for the beast, spend (secretly) a bunch of hard-earned money, and then store the monstrosity at your home, idle and useless, for 99.999999999999999999% of the year. (A hard secret to keep.)

Wouldn't it be more efficient and fun just to drive my beloved tractor along the bucolic country road a few hours a year?

Which raises another question. Is it legal to drive a tractor on a bucolic country road? I dont have a clue. Actually, I do have clues. All my life I have seen farmers driving on roads, as, unable to pass, I grew increasingly hostile behind them. Furthermore, all tractors sold these days have turn signals, flashers, and those orange triangle things. This would lead me to believe that I can tractor the highways and byways.

Of course, if I had to travel to my tractoring destination on the New Jersey Turnpike ... well, maybe I wouldnt do that even with a trailer.