Trailer Questions

[Kevin37]

Two questions on trailers for hauling tractor set-ups:

1) Does anyone know of the loading capacity of "Landscape trailer" ramps? The trailer itself seems the same as what is called a "Car hauler", the difference is it has rails about 12" high on three sides and the loading is done with a fold-up ramp that is made up of steel bars covered with a wire mesh. The fact that they call it a "Landscape" trailer makes me envision ZTR's and riding mowers going up that ramp, not my 4710, FEL and MX-6 cutter. They have 16' and 18', both 75" wide inside the rails.

2) Anyone in the Northern Virginia area know of any trailer dealers with good prices? I've seen some awesome prices in TX and OK, but never anything in these areas. Close to me would be Winchester, Frederick MD, Charlestown WV, even Gettysburg PA. The pricing I've found is about $2,000 for the landscapers and $2,500 for the car haulers.

Thanks

Kevin

 

[CVHoss]

Kevin,
While this isn't a hard and fast rule, most landscape trailers that I've seen have an angle iron frame while car haulers have a C-channel frame. For a tractor the size of a 4710, I think you're going to want something beefier than the typical landscape trailer. My car hauler has a 5" C-channel frame with 4" C-channel cross members on 4' centers. To this, I added 3" C-channel cross members so that I now have a cross member every two feet and this was just to haul my 4400. As for loading capacities of the ramps, I would consult with the trailer dealers. If they can't tell you the capacity of the ramp, I'd find a different dealer.

My best suggestion would be don't skimp on your trailer purchase. You may not use it very often, but when you do, you'll have $30,000.00 worth of equipment sitting on top of it.

Hoss

 

[dltimmons]

Kevin,

To answer your first question, you are correct. The screen type ramp on the landscape trailers is made for lighter equipment. It is not designed to support a 3K+ load. You need a trailer with fairly heavy loading ramps. Also, any trailer you look at be sure the axles are rated heavy enough to carry both the weight of the trailer itself, and, all of the equipment you need to haul. These landscape trailers typically have 3,500 lb. axles under them. The trailer will probably weigh around 1,800/2,000 lbs. by itself. That only leaves a capacity of 3,000 lbs. for cargo. I would look for 5k lb. axles minimum, also will give you better/heavier duty tires.
Some other things to consider, a 16' trailer will work, but longer 3 pt. implements will hang over the back. An 18' will usually let you take an extra item along if you need to. Torsion axles give a much better ride than slipper spring axles, they cost a little more but are really worth it.
Grease zerks in the ends of the axles make routine maintenance much easier, and if maintained, give much longer bearing life. Removeable ramps, that store under the back of the trailer allow a much broader range of uses versus, swing up style ramps. Stake pockets around the sides/front of the trailer will allow you to make/buy side boards to use the trailer for hauling small/loose items.
Also, drop style axles, keep the bed of the trailer lower to the ground and make loading/unloading a lot easier, however the trailer bed is between the fenders and is much narrower than an over the axle style trailer.
If you are buying a trailer new, negotiate a spare tire/wheel into the deal, with a mount for the spare, much easier/cheaper to do it up front than go back later on.
These are just a few of the items that can make a big difference when looking at trailers to buy.
Sorry I can't help you with your second question.

Good luck,

DT

 

[Soundguy]

I picked up a 'car hauler' 16' tanden axle trailer with e-brakes and a wood deck for 1600$ in florida. I was in a pinch to get it.. and only looked locally. If I had driven about 60miles, I could have gottenit for about 1300.. but didn't know that at the time.

Find out what the axels are rated for. Around here lots of the landsacpe trailers may have the 7000# axle.. but only 3" angle iron framing.. while the car haulers get 4" framing.

And no.. the expanded metal will pull right thru. You need angle iron ramps... though lots places will substitue ramps like that for the fold up expanded metal gate.

Soundguy

 

[RonR]

The trailer I bought has the wire mesh cover over angle iron. When I put the small tractor next to it, the angle iron was NOT on under where the wheels would drive up. So I cut two pieces of angle iron the same size as was on the trailer, placed them at the center of my tire widths, and welded them onto the ramp.

Now when the tractor goes up, it's right over the new angle pieces. Seems to work fine.

Just my 2 cents.

Ron

 

[Bird]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Grease zerks in the ends of the axles )</font>

Those are generally known as "bearing buddies", at least in my part of the country, and they're most common on boat trailers without brakes. They can be good on trailers with brakes, but I'd caution anyone using them on a trailer with brakes to not overdo greasing them. If you overdo it, and push grease out the rear seal and it gets on the brake linings, you won't like it. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[espn]

I was recently looking for a trailer to haul my Terramite. There's this place in Texas, they have a website: "http://www.indianvalleytrailers.com" They were pretty reasonable, a 16' tandem axle utility trailer started out at $998. You had to pay extra for brakes, a gate or ramps, new vs. good used tires etc..., but they were the cheapest site I found online. They also sell car haulers, a 16'er is around $1850. They deliver to most places in the country. I'm located in California and I think they were going to charge me $350 for delivery. I spoke with them on the phone and they were willing to customize a trailer to suit my needs. The only drawback, was the 5 - 6 week delivery time. But if you're patient, it seems to be very reasonable for a new trailer.

 

[froggy]

Try Big Tex Trailers. They may have a dealer in your area:
http://www.bigtextrailers.com/Contact_Big_Tex_Trailers/Select_Your_State.html

 

[froggy]

Bird,

I can second that about pushing grease out the back. Been there before!

Doyle

 

[dltimmons]

Bird,
I wasn't refering to a Bearing Buddy type cap, but rather, zerks that are installed right in the end of the trailer axles. I have bearing buddies on my boat trailer, but my 26' enclosed car hauler, and my 7' X 12' Wells Cargo, both have rubber torsion spring axles with zerks in the ends of them. The dust caps over the outer bearings, have rubber center inserts that are removable, so you can grease the bearings with a regular grease gun. These axles are drilled through the center, into the area between the inner and outer bearings, so that when you grease them the grease comes out between the bearings.
I agree with taking it easy on how much you grease them thou, cause if you blow out the rear seal, your going to have some real touchy brakes.
Its' just a nice feature that makes routine maintenance easier.

DT

 

[BotaGuy]

I use my 16 foot car hauler. It is a DCT, Dressen Custom Trailers unit that is built very heavily. One thing I would do though is get flip down jacks for the back so when the tractor is loaded it does not force the front of the tractor up. This occurs even on tandem axle trailers. The flip up ramps on skid steer trailers already have them welded to the ramps. I see cheap 16 footers sell for 995, mine was $1795.

 

[RickB]

I just bought a Load Trail 18' car hauler 7K GVW with slide in ladder ramps for $1900. 83" between the fenders. 5" channel frame, 3" channel crossmembers. Stake pockets and 4 D rings. Best deal around my neck of the woods. Dealer is in NE PA.

 

[Bird]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I wasn't refering to a Bearing Buddy type cap, but rather, zerks that are installed right in the end of the trailer axles. )</font>

Ah yes, Doug. I was a little slow there; forgot about those. The ones with the zerks in the end of the spindle is something I've never used, although that was one option Dexter gave me when they built new custom axles for my fifth-wheel trailer. That's different from the bearing buddies but I was still concerned about the same possibility of overgreasing and getting grease on my brake linings is the reason I decided against them. And of course they may be better. It's just that I'm from the old school /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif; still believed in cleaning and repacking bearings occasionally.

 

[KiotiJohn]

Why not check out all the dealers on Ebay? Here's an example of one in WEST VA. A 16' utility for $1060.00. There are plenty others. John
Utility Trailer on Ebay

 

[RayH]

Kevin,
I dont think you will do much better than $2100 locally for your basic 7000 lbs car hauler. I live right up the road from you and I bought last year. I ended up paying about $2800 for an 18ft, 10000 lbs, wood deck equipment trailer with brakes on both axles. For the size tractor you have, You may want to consider a trailer more substantial than a 7000 lbs car hauler. I figure my Grande L tractor with loaded tires, FEL, and box blade weighs in at close to 5500 lbs. Thats right at or above the limit for most 7000 lbs trailers. Ive added a BH to the tractor know so that puts me at over 6000 lbs. Im glad I got the 10000lbs trailer, I just wish I would have gone with the 20' instead of 18' now.
There are a couple of dealers in Hagerstown MD that have nice trailers for sale. Mine is made by EZ Dumper. It has a few things that sold me on it. It has structural diamond plate fenders so I can walk on them with out bending them, it also has a steel dove tail and a 6'10" wide deck and can use either a ball mount or pintle hook..
Let me know if you would be interested in shopping in Hagerstown, I will give you the sddresses and phone #s for a couple of the trailer dealers here that have some nice products.

 

[RobertN]

Curious about adding the additional crossmembers... What added value does it give? It won't give extra capacity; if you beef up the frame, you need to beef up the axles, springs, tires, rims and ball coupler too.

 

[RobertN]

You got the right idea! Add up all those numbers for a load weight. For example, I haul my B2800 Kubota on a dual axle 16' trailer, 7000lb GVW. For example:
1 - B8200 1300lb
2- loader 650lb
3 - scraper 300lb
4 - mower 500lb
5 - Auger 250lb
6 - Diesel can 40lb
7 - toolbox 50lb

I come in at just about 3100lbs with all my tools on the trailer. My 7000lb trailer weighs 1600lb, giving me 5400lb capacity. I am easily within the limit of my trailer.

A couple things I found are or would be nice, although they add to the price...
Spare tire - nothing worse than stuck with a flat
Tie hooks - Most trailer do not come with them. A nice addition for using rope to tie various "stuff" that does not require chain
Toolbox - I wish I had a toolbox on front to store chain/binder/straps

Another thing to keep in mind, get four binders at least, and plenty of chain. DOT regs are a chain/binder on each corner of a tractor.

 

[Kevin37]

Thanks everybody for all the replies. I knew I could count on this group to help steer me in the right direction.
Here's what I know so far:

The "Landscape" is definitely out. I went to a couple trailer dealers and the tractor would crush that gate-loading ramp. Plus the FEL would have to fit between the fixed rails. The fold-up ramp is fixed and that limits anything that might be hanging off the back. The trailer frame is also not quite as beefy as the car hauler.

The car hauler is the way to go. 16' is good, 18' would be better. No side rails, but stake-body slots to add a temporary rail. 2' dove-tail in the rear. The dilemma now is the 7000# compared to the 10,000#. The smaller trailer weighs about 1800#'s and tractor and gear would bring it right to the limit. Unfortunately, the price difference is big. It's a stretch for me to be getting anything, and the 10,000# unit is at least $500 more.
My needs are mild as far as the transport goes. Full load will be going 6 miles down a country road to my property which is at the back of a new development. 6 miles on pavement and 3/4 miles on dirt road. Not planning any big highway trips and if I haul the tractor to the dealership in the future, the MX-6 wouldn't be on and I could drop the FEL. All other uses would be LBC's (Little British Cars), long loads from Home Depot, bringing stuff home from farm auctions, etc.

For those thinking of this: I don't want to drive the new tractor to the property on the state road. Lots of blind curves plus my seat-time will be catch-as-catch-can before and after work and the time to drive there and back would also be too long.

I don't want to just leave everything at the property because I'm not sure about security. No-one has built there yet , nothing is lighted, and that's a risk I don't want to take.

So that's it...any more thoughts before I go write a check?

Thanks
Kevin

 

[Golfgar4]

I didn't go back and read all of the replies that were posted, so this may have been already suggested. But have you looked at used trailers? I recall that one of the replies mentioned checking e-bay for dealers, but what about used? I know we can generally find a number of used trailers in our area most anytime. It may not look as pretty as a new one, but you might be able to save enough to get the larger trailer that you sound like you'd prefer to have.

Just a thought. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Kevin37]

Garry
In short-yes. When this thing started, my intention was to spend a few hundred bucks on a used trailer for my purposes described in the prior post. I have been looking and calling since before I took delivery of my tractor. I am amazed at how few there are for sale. It seems people don't want to part with them if they have them, or if they are selling, it's crap on wheels, or then there's the people who want just a couple hundred bucks less then a new unit. I've checked e-bay often and seen many dealers similarly priced to my local guys, or trailers for sale where the distance adds too much to the price. I still look, but so far no luck.

Kevin