I use my 16 foot car hauler. It is a DCT, Dressen Custom Trailers unit that is built very heavily. One thing I would do though is get flip down jacks for the back so when the tractor is loaded it does not force the front of the tractor up. This occurs even on tandem axle trailers. The flip up ramps on skid steer trailers already have them welded to the ramps. I see cheap 16 footers sell for 995, mine was $1795.
Trailer Questions
- Thread starter Kevin37
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RickB
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- Just a Scag
I just bought a Load Trail 18' car hauler 7K GVW with slide in ladder ramps for $1900. 83" between the fenders. 5" channel frame, 3" channel crossmembers. Stake pockets and 4 D rings. Best deal around my neck of the woods. Dealer is in NE PA.
Bird
Rest in Peace
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I wasn't refering to a Bearing Buddy type cap, but rather, zerks that are installed right in the end of the trailer axles. )</font>
Ah yes, Doug. I was a little slow there; forgot about those. The ones with the zerks in the end of the spindle is something I've never used, although that was one option Dexter gave me when they built new custom axles for my fifth-wheel trailer. That's different from the bearing buddies but I was still concerned about the same possibility of overgreasing and getting grease on my brake linings is the reason I decided against them. And of course they may be better. It's just that I'm from the old school /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif; still believed in cleaning and repacking bearings occasionally.
Ah yes, Doug. I was a little slow there; forgot about those. The ones with the zerks in the end of the spindle is something I've never used, although that was one option Dexter gave me when they built new custom axles for my fifth-wheel trailer. That's different from the bearing buddies but I was still concerned about the same possibility of overgreasing and getting grease on my brake linings is the reason I decided against them. And of course they may be better. It's just that I'm from the old school /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif; still believed in cleaning and repacking bearings occasionally.
Why not check out all the dealers on Ebay? Here's an example of one in WEST VA. A 16' utility for $1060.00. There are plenty others. John
Utility Trailer on Ebay
Utility Trailer on Ebay
RayH
Banned
Kevin,
I dont think you will do much better than $2100 locally for your basic 7000 lbs car hauler. I live right up the road from you and I bought last year. I ended up paying about $2800 for an 18ft, 10000 lbs, wood deck equipment trailer with brakes on both axles. For the size tractor you have, You may want to consider a trailer more substantial than a 7000 lbs car hauler. I figure my Grande L tractor with loaded tires, FEL, and box blade weighs in at close to 5500 lbs. Thats right at or above the limit for most 7000 lbs trailers. Ive added a BH to the tractor know so that puts me at over 6000 lbs. Im glad I got the 10000lbs trailer, I just wish I would have gone with the 20' instead of 18' now.
There are a couple of dealers in Hagerstown MD that have nice trailers for sale. Mine is made by EZ Dumper. It has a few things that sold me on it. It has structural diamond plate fenders so I can walk on them with out bending them, it also has a steel dove tail and a 6'10" wide deck and can use either a ball mount or pintle hook..
Let me know if you would be interested in shopping in Hagerstown, I will give you the sddresses and phone #s for a couple of the trailer dealers here that have some nice products.
I dont think you will do much better than $2100 locally for your basic 7000 lbs car hauler. I live right up the road from you and I bought last year. I ended up paying about $2800 for an 18ft, 10000 lbs, wood deck equipment trailer with brakes on both axles. For the size tractor you have, You may want to consider a trailer more substantial than a 7000 lbs car hauler. I figure my Grande L tractor with loaded tires, FEL, and box blade weighs in at close to 5500 lbs. Thats right at or above the limit for most 7000 lbs trailers. Ive added a BH to the tractor know so that puts me at over 6000 lbs. Im glad I got the 10000lbs trailer, I just wish I would have gone with the 20' instead of 18' now.
There are a couple of dealers in Hagerstown MD that have nice trailers for sale. Mine is made by EZ Dumper. It has a few things that sold me on it. It has structural diamond plate fenders so I can walk on them with out bending them, it also has a steel dove tail and a 6'10" wide deck and can use either a ball mount or pintle hook..
Let me know if you would be interested in shopping in Hagerstown, I will give you the sddresses and phone #s for a couple of the trailer dealers here that have some nice products.
RobertN
Super Member
Curious about adding the additional crossmembers... What added value does it give? It won't give extra capacity; if you beef up the frame, you need to beef up the axles, springs, tires, rims and ball coupler too.
RobertN
Super Member
You got the right idea! Add up all those numbers for a load weight. For example, I haul my B2800 Kubota on a dual axle 16' trailer, 7000lb GVW. For example:
1 - B8200 1300lb
2- loader 650lb
3 - scraper 300lb
4 - mower 500lb
5 - Auger 250lb
6 - Diesel can 40lb
7 - toolbox 50lb
I come in at just about 3100lbs with all my tools on the trailer. My 7000lb trailer weighs 1600lb, giving me 5400lb capacity. I am easily within the limit of my trailer.
A couple things I found are or would be nice, although they add to the price...
Spare tire - nothing worse than stuck with a flat
Tie hooks - Most trailer do not come with them. A nice addition for using rope to tie various "stuff" that does not require chain
Toolbox - I wish I had a toolbox on front to store chain/binder/straps
Another thing to keep in mind, get four binders at least, and plenty of chain. DOT regs are a chain/binder on each corner of a tractor.
1 - B8200 1300lb
2- loader 650lb
3 - scraper 300lb
4 - mower 500lb
5 - Auger 250lb
6 - Diesel can 40lb
7 - toolbox 50lb
I come in at just about 3100lbs with all my tools on the trailer. My 7000lb trailer weighs 1600lb, giving me 5400lb capacity. I am easily within the limit of my trailer.
A couple things I found are or would be nice, although they add to the price...
Spare tire - nothing worse than stuck with a flat
Tie hooks - Most trailer do not come with them. A nice addition for using rope to tie various "stuff" that does not require chain
Toolbox - I wish I had a toolbox on front to store chain/binder/straps
Another thing to keep in mind, get four binders at least, and plenty of chain. DOT regs are a chain/binder on each corner of a tractor.
Thanks everybody for all the replies. I knew I could count on this group to help steer me in the right direction.
Here's what I know so far:
The "Landscape" is definitely out. I went to a couple trailer dealers and the tractor would crush that gate-loading ramp. Plus the FEL would have to fit between the fixed rails. The fold-up ramp is fixed and that limits anything that might be hanging off the back. The trailer frame is also not quite as beefy as the car hauler.
The car hauler is the way to go. 16' is good, 18' would be better. No side rails, but stake-body slots to add a temporary rail. 2' dove-tail in the rear. The dilemma now is the 7000# compared to the 10,000#. The smaller trailer weighs about 1800#'s and tractor and gear would bring it right to the limit. Unfortunately, the price difference is big. It's a stretch for me to be getting anything, and the 10,000# unit is at least $500 more.
My needs are mild as far as the transport goes. Full load will be going 6 miles down a country road to my property which is at the back of a new development. 6 miles on pavement and 3/4 miles on dirt road. Not planning any big highway trips and if I haul the tractor to the dealership in the future, the MX-6 wouldn't be on and I could drop the FEL. All other uses would be LBC's (Little British Cars), long loads from Home Depot, bringing stuff home from farm auctions, etc.
For those thinking of this: I don't want to drive the new tractor to the property on the state road. Lots of blind curves plus my seat-time will be catch-as-catch-can before and after work and the time to drive there and back would also be too long.
I don't want to just leave everything at the property because I'm not sure about security. No-one has built there yet , nothing is lighted, and that's a risk I don't want to take.
So that's it...any more thoughts before I go write a check?
Thanks
Kevin
Here's what I know so far:
The "Landscape" is definitely out. I went to a couple trailer dealers and the tractor would crush that gate-loading ramp. Plus the FEL would have to fit between the fixed rails. The fold-up ramp is fixed and that limits anything that might be hanging off the back. The trailer frame is also not quite as beefy as the car hauler.
The car hauler is the way to go. 16' is good, 18' would be better. No side rails, but stake-body slots to add a temporary rail. 2' dove-tail in the rear. The dilemma now is the 7000# compared to the 10,000#. The smaller trailer weighs about 1800#'s and tractor and gear would bring it right to the limit. Unfortunately, the price difference is big. It's a stretch for me to be getting anything, and the 10,000# unit is at least $500 more.
My needs are mild as far as the transport goes. Full load will be going 6 miles down a country road to my property which is at the back of a new development. 6 miles on pavement and 3/4 miles on dirt road. Not planning any big highway trips and if I haul the tractor to the dealership in the future, the MX-6 wouldn't be on and I could drop the FEL. All other uses would be LBC's (Little British Cars), long loads from Home Depot, bringing stuff home from farm auctions, etc.
For those thinking of this: I don't want to drive the new tractor to the property on the state road. Lots of blind curves plus my seat-time will be catch-as-catch-can before and after work and the time to drive there and back would also be too long.
I don't want to just leave everything at the property because I'm not sure about security. No-one has built there yet , nothing is lighted, and that's a risk I don't want to take.
So that's it...any more thoughts before I go write a check?
Thanks
Kevin
Golfgar4
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- None -yet. Until then FunBuggy (EZ-Go) will have to do!
I didn't go back and read all of the replies that were posted, so this may have been already suggested. But have you looked at used trailers? I recall that one of the replies mentioned checking e-bay for dealers, but what about used? I know we can generally find a number of used trailers in our area most anytime. It may not look as pretty as a new one, but you might be able to save enough to get the larger trailer that you sound like you'd prefer to have.
Just a thought. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Just a thought. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Garry
In short-yes. When this thing started, my intention was to spend a few hundred bucks on a used trailer for my purposes described in the prior post. I have been looking and calling since before I took delivery of my tractor. I am amazed at how few there are for sale. It seems people don't want to part with them if they have them, or if they are selling, it's crap on wheels, or then there's the people who want just a couple hundred bucks less then a new unit. I've checked e-bay often and seen many dealers similarly priced to my local guys, or trailers for sale where the distance adds too much to the price. I still look, but so far no luck.
Kevin
In short-yes. When this thing started, my intention was to spend a few hundred bucks on a used trailer for my purposes described in the prior post. I have been looking and calling since before I took delivery of my tractor. I am amazed at how few there are for sale. It seems people don't want to part with them if they have them, or if they are selling, it's crap on wheels, or then there's the people who want just a couple hundred bucks less then a new unit. I've checked e-bay often and seen many dealers similarly priced to my local guys, or trailers for sale where the distance adds too much to the price. I still look, but so far no luck.
Kevin