Trailer ramp modification suggestions

[Jay4200]

My L4200 tractor w/ Woods 9000BH backhoe is too long to load/unload with my 16'/10 ton trailer. The problem is that the trailer does not have a beavertail, making the climb onto the trailer using the intergral folding 3' ramps too steep.

The rear of the backhoe mount is at least 5' behind the center of the rear wheels and is only 6" or so off of the ground. When I drive up or back down the ramps, my backhoe subframe mount hits the ground and gets stuck. I've only unloaded once when I bought the rig - I parked across the crest of the hill, and still had to drag the tractor off of the trailer using the backhoe.

Suggestions for modifications that might eliminate this issue?

Jay

 

[gordon21]

Try using a wood "platform/ramp" on both sides. Use three 2"x12" wide lumber 10' long. Stack them and lightly nail together. You now have a 4.5"x 11"x 10' long timber. Repeat on other side. Drive hoe onto these 10' long ramps and as the front wheels go up the steel ramps, your rear wheels are 4.5" higher off the ground than before. If this almost fixes the problem, then add another 2''x12" on top. You now have a 6"x11" x 10' timber. By raising the rear wheels, you will fix the problem of the hoe frame dragging. Once you determine exactly how much height you need, you can then construct your permananet ramp out of steel, wood, etc. That is why I suggested to lightly nail the 2x12 together for easy disassembly if needed. If your rig is really long, you might need to change my plan and use 12' long lumber.

If I thoroughly confused you, I will do a sketch and post it. The main thing is that you need to elevate the rear wheels off the ground BEFORE the front wheels start up the ramp.

 

[George2615]

I think you have a few choices.
1) Build longer ramps. 3' fold up ramps are not long enough.
2) Buy a different trailer.
3) With the trailer hooked to your tow vehicle, put a block under the trailer jack and crank up the trailer raising the front and lowering the back end for a less steeper approach angle.
Or a combination of 1 and 3.

 

[gordon21]

Here's the sketch. Longer ramps will not help much because they still don't address the issue of the angle of the hoe subframe to the ground by more than a degree or two. Getting the rear tires up by 4-6" changes the angle of attack by 10 degrees or more.

 

[3RRL]

You'll need longer ramps anyway, but I would always back up onto the trailer with the backhoe on.

 

[browns40]

Hi Jay,

Apologize if I'm acting a dumb question, but does the hoe hit the trailer if you try backing it on?

 

[BB_TX]

If you are into welding, you could make some short ramps something like the car ramps you can buy. Make them about 1/2 to 1/3 the height of the rear of the trailer and 3 or 4 ft (or more) long. Then you could set the end of the trailer ramps on the end of the portable ramps and extend your total ramp length. It would not be too hard to figure the length needed to keep the angle such that the hoe would not hit.

 

[RobJ]

Yep longer ramps I guess. I just finish building this 14' sled style trailer and the ramps are 7' long. Plenty of room storing them under the deck. I got my first chance to try them out this past weekend. They held up and not much sag(about 1/4"). they are 2"x3/8" flat bar with 1.5"x3/16 angle.

 

[RobJ]

Another pic, they slide in under the back for storage. Heavy but they work.

 

[teg]

We have a mound of dirt that I can back the trailer upto to load and unload at the farm, likewise at the house. Build yourself a loading dock *if* you only need to load/unload at specific locations.

 

[Jay4200]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Here's the sketch.)</font>

I got it from your description, but thanks. That idea is so rediculously simple, it HAS to work! I was all about lengthening the ramps, but I like this idea way better.

As they say on the Guiness commercials..."BRILLIANT!"

I'm gonna make a couple and see if it solves the issue, though I can't imagine it failing. The nice thing is that the planks don't really have to be too terribly long - the rear tires are fairly close to the ramp when the 'hoe hits. 12' timbers would be nice, but it'd be a cold day in **** when I could pick one of those things up.

Thanks again - Jay

 

[Jay4200]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Apologize if I'm acting a dumb question, but does the hoe hit the trailer if you try backing it on?)</font>

Yes, and by a country mile. My backhoe's subframe bracket hangs off the rear of the tractor at least 3 or 4 feet. I haven't measured it, but it's probably 6-7 feet from the center of the rear wheels, and all of about 6" off the ground (redneck low-rider). Even with the bucket sticking straight up, the frame would crash into the trailer 3 - 4 feet before the rear tires hit the ramps.

Jay

 

[Jay4200]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Another pic, they slide in under the back for storage. Heavy but they work. )</font>

Nice ramps. They look heavy though. My trailer has it's ramps permanantly attached on a pivot - I thought about both lengthening my ramps on pivots, or making ramps like yours that would hook onto the existing ramps halfway up. The independent ramps mean hoisting a bunch of weight though - ugh, getting tired just thinking about it /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif.

Jay

 

[gclark94560]

Hi All!

Great thread and just what I was thinking about! I have a Yanmar YM2000 that weighs just under 1700 pounds. I have an 8X12 "Landscapers" trailer. It has a drop down ramp covered in expanded metal for driving mowers in and out. I am sure that it would never hold the YM2000.

I am wanting to build two removable ramps out of angle iron but am not sure how heavy the metal needs to be to support 1700 pounds. I figure they need to be 6 or 7 feet long.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Greg

 

[kentrodngun]

Greg - Hi, I've got a 16' landscape trailer with a drop down gate. Doesn't even flex when I go up it with my 3,000 lb + tractor & attachments. The "screen" was ripped up pretty good when I got the trailer, so I use a 3/4" sheet of plywood instead - works great.

 

[john_bud]

Hi All!

Great thread and just what I was thinking about! I have a Yanmar YM2000 that weighs just under 1700 pounds. I have an 8X12 "Landscapers" trailer. It has a drop down ramp covered in expanded metal for driving mowers in and out. I am sure that it would never hold the YM2000.

I am wanting to build two removable ramps out of angle iron but am not sure how heavy the metal needs to be to support 1700 pounds. I figure they need to be 6 or 7 feet long.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Greg

You can weld on 2 pieces of 2"x2"x 3/8" angle to each side to support the weight and strengthen it. I did that to sections of cheap ATV folding ramp. It was originally rated for 800# and I have used it to load a mule with 800# in the bed on the trailer. Total load 2100+. Ramps have held up well for 5 years.

If no welder, they you can use bolts to attach 2x10's to the current ramp or just lay them on top.

jb

 

[gclark94560]

Well - you guys are right on the landscaping trailer drop down ramp. I talked to the maker and they said it would probably hold the YM2000 but might bend some.

So I added two more 2X2X1/8 angle iron pieces where the outside edge of the back tires would hit. I then added 10 cross braces between the existing and added braces.
I also added a third hinge in the center to add ridgidity.

Sure is heavier to put back up now! Haven't given it the drive on test yet. Trying to build up courage!

Greg

 

[schmism]

Sure is heavier to put back up now! Haven't given it the drive on test yet. Trying to build up courage!

Greg

there are a number of spring assist designs that will help lighten the load.

 

[gclark94560]

there are a number of spring assist designs that will help lighten the load.

I have seen those. Anyone have any idea of how strong of a spring is needed. Perhaps a garage door spring?

Greg

 

[AlanB]

I used the strongest garage door springs that Lowes had in stock, I forget the lb rating on them. Used a pair of them and cabling to do our mowing trailer tailgate and it works real well. My 10 year old now safely opens and closes the gate.