Trailer ramp modification suggestions

[Jay4200]

My L4200 tractor w/ Woods 9000BH backhoe is too long to load/unload with my 16'/10 ton trailer. The problem is that the trailer does not have a beavertail, making the climb onto the trailer using the intergral folding 3' ramps too steep.

The rear of the backhoe mount is at least 5' behind the center of the rear wheels and is only 6" or so off of the ground. When I drive up or back down the ramps, my backhoe subframe mount hits the ground and gets stuck. I've only unloaded once when I bought the rig - I parked across the crest of the hill, and still had to drag the tractor off of the trailer using the backhoe.

Suggestions for modifications that might eliminate this issue?

Jay

 

[gordon21]

Try using a wood "platform/ramp" on both sides. Use three 2"x12" wide lumber 10' long. Stack them and lightly nail together. You now have a 4.5"x 11"x 10' long timber. Repeat on other side. Drive hoe onto these 10' long ramps and as the front wheels go up the steel ramps, your rear wheels are 4.5" higher off the ground than before. If this almost fixes the problem, then add another 2''x12" on top. You now have a 6"x11" x 10' timber. By raising the rear wheels, you will fix the problem of the hoe frame dragging. Once you determine exactly how much height you need, you can then construct your permananet ramp out of steel, wood, etc. That is why I suggested to lightly nail the 2x12 together for easy disassembly if needed. If your rig is really long, you might need to change my plan and use 12' long lumber.

If I thoroughly confused you, I will do a sketch and post it. The main thing is that you need to elevate the rear wheels off the ground BEFORE the front wheels start up the ramp.

 

[George2615]

I think you have a few choices.
1) Build longer ramps. 3' fold up ramps are not long enough.
2) Buy a different trailer.
3) With the trailer hooked to your tow vehicle, put a block under the trailer jack and crank up the trailer raising the front and lowering the back end for a less steeper approach angle.
Or a combination of 1 and 3.

 

[gordon21]

Here's the sketch. Longer ramps will not help much because they still don't address the issue of the angle of the hoe subframe to the ground by more than a degree or two. Getting the rear tires up by 4-6" changes the angle of attack by 10 degrees or more.

 

[3RRL]

You'll need longer ramps anyway, but I would always back up onto the trailer with the backhoe on.

 

[browns40]

Hi Jay,

Apologize if I'm acting a dumb question, but does the hoe hit the trailer if you try backing it on?

 

[BB_TX]

If you are into welding, you could make some short ramps something like the car ramps you can buy. Make them about 1/2 to 1/3 the height of the rear of the trailer and 3 or 4 ft (or more) long. Then you could set the end of the trailer ramps on the end of the portable ramps and extend your total ramp length. It would not be too hard to figure the length needed to keep the angle such that the hoe would not hit.

 

[RobJ]

Yep longer ramps I guess. I just finish building this 14' sled style trailer and the ramps are 7' long. Plenty of room storing them under the deck. I got my first chance to try them out this past weekend. They held up and not much sag(about 1/4"). they are 2"x3/8" flat bar with 1.5"x3/16 angle.

 

[RobJ]

Another pic, they slide in under the back for storage. Heavy but they work.

 

[teg]

We have a mound of dirt that I can back the trailer upto to load and unload at the farm, likewise at the house. Build yourself a loading dock *if* you only need to load/unload at specific locations.