Transporting boulders

[plowhog]

I definitely like the idea of using a U-haul trailer to move big rocks. They're very well built, quite heavy duty, and best of all, if you bang them up, it is someone else's trailer, not yours.

Lots of good advice in this thread. Thank you.

I'm thinking my 5x8 dump trailer is the wrong one for the mission. I do have a 25,000lb rated flatbed trailer with plenty of tie downs on the side. It formerly transported a 10,000 lb dozer. The tires are shaky though-- so no free lunch there.

I also have a BigTex 14,000 lb car hauler, bumper pull. Although it had a wood floor. Maybe I could put down some heavy plywood. I didn't consider the flatbed trailers due to the difficult of unloading. But-- if I chained the boulder at the site or origin, and used those chains to lift it, I would leave the chains in place during transport. Then I would have something to tie down with, and a way to unload them.

Or, a U-haul trailer looks feasible. There is a lot to fasten to with those open trailers-- as long as I don't cinch down too hard and bend the trailer.

 

[Leejohn]

chain link fence strapped down over them.

 

[Geunther]

I would use sand bags, 4 or 5 per boulder, placed to inhibit movement. I use feed bags to help me move them easily. 60 to 80 lbs. of construction sand will do it, I think. Best of luck!

 

[Jstpssng]

Do keep in mind that when driving on a public highway, you come under the rules and regulations of the DOT. Last time I checked, ANY load must be secured against movement. I told you how to secure them a ways back. You can either heed my advise or wing it but be apprised if you wing it and something happens, not only will you be liable for damages, you'll probably be ticked for an insecure load as well.

Your choice. I KNOW what mine would be.

Sage advice. Now to the second part of his question; what's the best way to do it. Your way is probably best... something about having done it commercially makes yours among the best.
Unless they are square, getting a normal chain to stay on a boulder will be a challenge. Some good suggestions above to do that... and others not so good. The suggestion of using biomass to help hold them in place would reduce the excess weight vs gravel or stone.(wood chips from a tree service would work well.)
In that case he would want a tarp as others suggested, to keep debris from blowing. Then a decent set of chains around each boulder... the chain link fence mentioned above would be a good way to hold the chains where you want them.
A cubic foot of granite weighs about 175 lbs.
The other thing not mentioned is that an object that big is going to make the trailer do funky things if it shifts. If we could plan when we were going to crash, it wouldn't be called an "Accident."

 

[al b]

Haven't read all posts so I don't know if this has been mentioned but how about pallets? They are light and would use up space. Put them under and cut some in half and pack them around the bolders. Maybe some on top too to hold the chains steady.

 

[Egon]

All said and done the proper way means following your jurisdiction’s rules for towing and securing the load.

Many times Assumptions cost money.

 

[ljjhouser]

I think I agree with 5030. I like 5/16 chain G70 and binders on most things. Of course straps and chains must be labeled (G70 or Strap weigh rating). Not all straps are not equal. But none of this makes any difference unless you are stopped or in an accident, then everything seems to make a difference. I have never been stopped and inspected with a load, but I am careful to secure that best I can. In the end, do what YOU are comfortable with. I have an L4701 that I haul as far as 250 miles. The more I haul it, the more caution I use to be sure 4 pt tractor and each implement are secured.
Good question, rocks or boulders are difficult to capture. If possible, add another rock to see if you can pack against the sides to prevent lateral movement. Then maybe a piece of sheet stock (maybe 3/4" plywood) over the top and then chain and binders.
That said, it sounds like overkill. But in an accident, it might look just right. Best wishes, Larry

 

[gejandsons]

Place them in the trailer then dump dirt or sand in so they can’t roll. Or build a crate out of plywood.

 

[sixdogs]

If you don't strap down a boulder and do get seen by a cop you will indeed pay a very large fine. No doubt about it. And in hauling boulders, the only thing that works are chains or rated straps over a safety net or with a pallet crushed on top of them and chained or strapped so they are securely restrained. You can also put a pallet under and pallet over if it's a biggie or really round. The pallet will mold (crush) itself to the rock and I've never seen one even try to move this way.

There is no "sort-of" OK or "pretty secure" when hauling big rocks because rocks are either 100% secure or 0% secure. Give them and inch and they'll take a mile. And if one ever did get loose, it will cause tremendous damage and/or loss of life so be prepared to lose everything you own and everything you will own and then plan on wearing stripes for a while.

 

[Hay Dude]

Dont know if anyone mentioned, but when landscape boulders are professionally palletized and shipped, they are placed on a HD pallet, then a wooden crate is built around it in the form of a box, using thick pieces of locust or other heavy pallet grade lumber. This is so the boulders can be shipped on a flatbed trailer, then easily offloaded with a skid steer with pallet forks onto a staging area, uncrated and carried to the boulders resting place.

 

[Redlands Okie]

Around here you see the stones show up at the yard on pallets and wrapped with heavy field fencing. These are then strapped down with bars in the wire and or corner protectors for the straps.

Chain link fencing is flexible to fit a variety of shapes and the same places that sale the fence has tension bars that can be inserted. A variety of pullers are made to attach to the tension bars. This enables you to distribute the forces when tying down the load.

Tires used as a focal point to fasten to sounds ok and they have incredible strength in their beads.


Adding dirt and gravel around boulders do not stop them from shifting at a sudden stop. Also greatly adds to the weight of the load.

 

[Fallon]

Never seeing a dump trailer in action, is that the typical speed of dumping material? Or is that a heavier load and hence a slower speed? Just asking. And yes I have some rocks as shown on my property. Thanks, Jon

They aren't fast, but that one is slower than most I've seen. Twice that fast is probably a decent one. 12v powered hydraulic pumps are pretty anemic. They are faster with minimal load, but not much.

Probably 2-3hp on your average 12v hydraulic pump. Your 30-60hp tractor puts out 8-12hp of hydraulic power under ideal circumstances. Probably a fair bit more on your bigger dumptrucks with PTO hydraulics.

 

[ning]

They aren't fast, but that one is slower than most I've seen. Twice that fast is probably a decent one. 12v powered hydraulic pumps are pretty anemic. They are faster with minimal load, but not much.

Probably 2-3hp on your average 12v hydraulic pump. Your 30-60hp tractor puts out 8-12hp of hydraulic power under ideal circumstances. Probably a fair bit more on your bigger dumptrucks with PTO hydraulics.

1 HP = 746 W electric which would take a minimum of more than 60A at 12v, assuming a perfect conversion of electric to hydraulic power. I don't know what the fuse rating is on those 12v hydraulic pumps but I'd be surprised if they're doing 1HP; I'm happy to be educated as I really don't know but these numbers (2-3hp) don't sound right.

 

[Fallon]

1 HP = 746 W electric which would take a minimum of more than 60A at 12v, assuming a perfect conversion of electric to hydraulic power. I don't know what the fuse rating is on those 12v hydraulic pumps but I'd be surprised if they're doing 1HP; I'm happy to be educated as I really don't know but these numbers (2-3hp) don't sound right.

I don't honestly remember if my pump (tilting deck not dump, but the pumps are generic units used in both) is fused or not much less the rating. My 12,000lbs Harbor Freight winch does have breakers, but many do not. The winches pull 200-300@ so fuses are a bit problematic & you need thick cables.

You only get 5-10 minutes of pumping out of a good battery before it needs to be recharged. I started to do more math, then just Googled for one instead. https://m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200642018_200642018 claims to be 2hp. Who knows how exaggerated that claim is as with many other motor claims.

 

[ning]

I don't honestly remember if my pump (tilting deck not dump, but the pumps are generic units used in both) is fused or not much less the rating. My 12,000lbs Harbor Freight winch does have breakers, but many do not. The winches pull 200-300@ so fuses are a bit problematic & you need thick cables.

You only get 5-10 minutes of pumping out of a good battery before it needs to be recharged. I started to do more math, then just Googled for one instead. https://m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200642018_200642018 claims to be 2hp. Who knows how exaggerated that claim is as with many other motor claims.

200-300A could easily be 2-3hp then, sounds about right *glances worriedly at the battery*

 

[nikerret]

1 HP = 746 W electric which would take a minimum of more than 60A at 12v, assuming a perfect conversion of electric to hydraulic power. I don't know what the fuse rating is on those 12v hydraulic pumps but I'd be surprised if they're doing 1HP; I'm happy to be educated as I really don't know but these numbers (2-3hp) don't sound right.

With an empty bed, my dump trailer pump pulls over 300 amps, lifting it up. That was with my truck plugged into the trailer battery (2 AWG setup), at regular idle. With one battery, the voltage drops to around 8-9, but with both batteries, it stays around 10 volts. If I hit the high idle, it stays over 10 volts. I haven’t put a meter on it, when loaded to capacity.

 

[BBHomestead]

I want to transport some boulders about 50 miles. I have a 5x8 heavy duty dump trailer that should probably handle 2 or 3 of them. How in the world do you fasten them down for transport? Or not bother?

The sides on my trailer are high enough where the boulders could not possible fall over the sides or the back. It's more if I was in an accident-- those boulders flying around could do some serious damage.

I don't have D-rings in my trailer ....

It depends on what size you are talking? Boulder is a subjective measurement! What diameter are they? With diameter you can figure average weight! You can then figure out how many to load! After all this your question is easier to answer because if straps on one boulder you use two one going over it to tie down behind it other over it to tie downs in front of it! If its a row if them pushed to front if trailer then just needs something to keep them from moving backwards! You may be surprised how many you can actually load before overweight!

 

[fishdrivel]

About 3 feet across for each boulder. My trailer is rated for 3,500 lb payload. I don't know how much they weigh so maybe 1 or 2 max?

Retired Landscape Contractor. I have hauled a lot of boulders. Your 3' round boulder is over 2 tons. Beware: 3 1/2 foot is probably double that. Truckers don't like hauling boulders. When they do they often have a "rock truck" This is the truck that gets abused and looks like crap. Forgive me please but if you think your 3500# trailer is heavy duty, you are probably not experienced enough to do this.

Note: They can be strapped on a heavy duty pallet and loaded and unloadedby forklift. This gives you trucking options.
Best option is often buying them delivered!

 

[bcp]

Stone Weight Calculator

Stone Weight Calculator

artfiberglass.com

Another-PDF download

https://www.graniteexpress.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/boulder-coverage-charts.pdf

Bruce

 

[two_bit_score]

chain link fencing for the tarp.

That’s a good idea. Wish I had kept some of the old fence I just got rid of.