clev
New member
Kyle , I have 5w40, not 20w50. I just thought that I would thicken it a little with 75/140. I don't leave home unless necessary and the difference between W40 and W50 is minuscule, at best; not necessary.
TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures
- Thread starter LotsofGreenGrass
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jerrywh
New member
Hi Clev
Coincidentally I stripped mine down today as well. Getting it off the tractor and back on was much harder than dealing with the transmission itself. My transmission also appeared in good condition (but theoil has been changed regularly) with no wear noticeable on the gears etc.
However that is not what causes the power loss. The transmission, at least my k55g model, works very roughly as follows: the engine turns a shaft in the transmission which has a thing, looks a bit like a revolver clinder with five holes. Each hole has a cylinder in it.. it works as a pump, to draw oil through the filter (I hope you gave that a good clean, or replaced it) and force it through a similar cylinder which is attached to the drive train, and sends power to the rear wheels. These cylinders are the heart of the transmission. They work to fine tolerances and are subject to wear over time. If oil is forced past them for example power is lost. If the filter is dirty or blocked the oil pressure rises, the oil thins, power is lost..
I am not an expert and I'm sure others here could give a much better explanation of how the transmission works, which at a detail level is not simple. It is the question of oil pressure and misrouting of oil internally which is the key, and is why the classic symptom is decreasing power as the tractor warms up..
hope this some help. What I have done is thoroughly clean the internal filter, clean and lubricate the dump valve, clean other internal gunk away, such as it was, and reassemble.. not tested it yet but if that doesn't work I will have to consider spending $300 on the cylinder block kits
Coincidentally I stripped mine down today as well. Getting it off the tractor and back on was much harder than dealing with the transmission itself. My transmission also appeared in good condition (but theoil has been changed regularly) with no wear noticeable on the gears etc.
However that is not what causes the power loss. The transmission, at least my k55g model, works very roughly as follows: the engine turns a shaft in the transmission which has a thing, looks a bit like a revolver clinder with five holes. Each hole has a cylinder in it.. it works as a pump, to draw oil through the filter (I hope you gave that a good clean, or replaced it) and force it through a similar cylinder which is attached to the drive train, and sends power to the rear wheels. These cylinders are the heart of the transmission. They work to fine tolerances and are subject to wear over time. If oil is forced past them for example power is lost. If the filter is dirty or blocked the oil pressure rises, the oil thins, power is lost..
I am not an expert and I'm sure others here could give a much better explanation of how the transmission works, which at a detail level is not simple. It is the question of oil pressure and misrouting of oil internally which is the key, and is why the classic symptom is decreasing power as the tractor warms up..
hope this some help. What I have done is thoroughly clean the internal filter, clean and lubricate the dump valve, clean other internal gunk away, such as it was, and reassemble.. not tested it yet but if that doesn't work I will have to consider spending $300 on the cylinder block kits
Kyle_in_Tex
Super Star Member
Excellent description Jerry. Put your best reader glasses on and look at the faces of the centercases. There are pictures up in the thread where guys have taken the time to lap these faces on a flat surface. They need to be very flat and very good finish.
clev, I guess I was getting at what type of climate you live in. If you are warm, you need to make sure you use the oil that covers the thicker end of the spectrum -50w. If cold, you need to go down to the thin end -10w.
clev, I guess I was getting at what type of climate you live in. If you are warm, you need to make sure you use the oil that covers the thicker end of the spectrum -50w. If cold, you need to go down to the thin end -10w.
mp3 e46
New member
Just another thanks for the great writeup. I swapped motor/pump on an LA120 in 2011 but only just joined the forum.
At ~70hrs the tractor seemed to slow down a little after about 15->20 mins of running. Might have been in my head but I did the swap and have not touched the transmission since. 50 more hours since then and all is fine.
At ~70hrs the tractor seemed to slow down a little after about 15->20 mins of running. Might have been in my head but I did the swap and have not touched the transmission since. 50 more hours since then and all is fine.
mp3 e46
New member
doublepost - deleted
Am sure no one wanted to be post 666 anyway
Am sure no one wanted to be post 666 anyway
Last edited:
clev
New member
I wouldn't have minded #666; it's the last 3 of my zip code and twice my street address of 333; seriously, it's true. Anyway, I've had some really bad luck with this axle. Previously, I posted tearing mine down, inspecting, reassembly, and new oil; couldn't find anything wrong, but it still wouldn't work. I contacted Husqvarna and was told to take it to an authorized service center and if they could find premature failure at 92 hours of use, due to no fault of my own, they would consider replacing it under warranty. I took it to a local service center and explained the situation, tear down, examine, and the contact with Husqvarna with my claim number. I called them once a week for 3 weeks before they finally told me that the transaxle was shot and husqvarna would not warranty it. They wanted $700 for the axle plus labor and I refused. Why put a thousand dollars in a tractor that I only paid $2000 for. When I got down there, I wanted to know exactly what was wrong with the transaxle and found out that they had never disassembled it; they had only driven it, determined it was out, called husqvarna, and told them they had an out of warranty tractor that needed a new transaxle; would they cover it, and they had said no. When I asked why they had not followed my directions about the tear down, I was told that no one in the shop was qualified to disassemble it. Can you believe that crap???? And because they could not intelligently tell Husqvarna what was wrong and that it was premature and not my fault, the claim was denied. Now, for the icing on the cake; they 'did me a favor' and only charged me a half hour labor of $32 for driving the tractor a few minutes to determine that the transaxle wasn't working; their minimum bill is one hour labor. I was angry but had no choice but to pay it or not take my tractor. Anyway, Husqvarna had the axle for $573, TuffTorq had it for $478, but then I found it at SearsPartsDirect for $394. There was one number different in the part number, mine ends in '90' theirs ends in '91' but both are K46AW. Sears Rep said the 91 was just a newer part. Anyway ordered it, installed it, and it's **** up as well. I managed to cut a little grass, but the trans is slow and slipping, and had to be goosed 3 - 4 times to climb the slight inclined ramp into my garage. Sears agreed to replace it and it's due in today. I'm on the verge of driving/pushing this POS into the field, dumping gas on it, and having a bonfire!
buickanddeere
Super Member
It's a Swash Plate".
I just don't understand why somebody would rebuild an inherently weak and failure prone K46 . When for nearly the price of K46 parts. A real K66 transmission is a bolt in swap . Even has differential lock.
I just don't understand why somebody would rebuild an inherently weak and failure prone K46 . When for nearly the price of K46 parts. A real K66 transmission is a bolt in swap . Even has differential lock.
clev
New member
Hi Buick; I asked Derrick at TuffTorq about a better transaxle and he said nothing else would work in my tractor. If it's a direct replacement, and a better axle, why don't they recommend it? Also, does the k66 replace all the k46's? Mine is an AW, and I've seen many other sub letters.
buickanddeere
Super Member
Check ebay. Drop in ready kits . Either your local dealer doesn't know or be doesn't want you to know? I would assume googling "K66 swap K46"would find something?
Kyle_in_Tex
Super Star Member
Only thing I'm seeing on ebay must be full out new transaxles starting at $1600.???
