TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures

   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #741  
Thanks to LOGG and others, I was able to repair my transmission on my 2003 L120 with 178.3 hours. I replaced the pump housing and both pumps, as well as all of the gears as they were showing signs of being eaten away. Someone else mentioned finding a seller on eBay that had some K46 parts, I'm happy to report I bought the 'Pump motor and filter kit' and the 'differential kit' from seller 'Barnyardmoo' and they seem to be working fine. The only area I had problems is, on my K46AC the wedge shaped piece that is next to the motor pump, the one that came from eBay had a raised ring on the side closest to the brake/gear, so I had to swap out my original one.

--JOsh
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #742  
Hi from England
I have a tractor fitted with a K46E. It is apparently fitted with 2 drain plugs but it is not clear which of the bolts on the underside are the drain plugs, the exploded diagram on the TT site is also unhelpful. Any advice available please?
Also for replacing oil. I have the black disc under the Fan which also houses the magnet but I also have a 'header tank'. Most instructions say fill from the port under the black disk but after purging air, top up via the header tank. Can anyone please clarify the situation. It would be more logical to fill from the header tank access.
Thanks in advance.
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #744  
I was looking at a new Sears big boy garden tractor. No more Tuff Torq hydrostatic drive. The brand is a Hydro Gear now. The mounting points appear to be the same so I think this unit could retro-fit into our machines with the K46 TT hydrostatic drives. I may just go that route if I have to rebuild this piece of junk hydro again. B. hydrogeartrans.jpg
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #745  
Thanks for this. Tractor is Westwood, now part of Countax model S1300 12.5 HP
Thanks for your post.
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #746  
Hi from England
I have a tractor fitted with a K46E. It is apparently fitted with 2 drain plugs but it is not clear which of the bolts on the underside are the drain plugs, the exploded diagram on the TT site is also unhelpful. Any advice available please?
Also for replacing oil. I have the black disc under the Fan which also houses the magnet but I also have a 'header tank'. Most instructions say fill from the port under the black disk but after purging air, top up via the header tank. Can anyone please clarify the situation. It would be more logical to fill from the header tank access.
Thanks in advance.

The K46i from my Husqvarna Rider 155 has two drain plugs as well. Both of them have a sort of washer under them that makes them sit up slightly and they also have the number 7 stamped on them (see attached photo). I hope that helps. I'd still fill the unit through the hole that houses the magnet as it seems to have a more direct route to each side of the case.
K46i bottom case with drainplugs installed.jpg
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #747  
I was looking at a new Sears big boy garden tractor. No more Tuff Torq hydrostatic drive. The brand is a Hydro Gear now. The mounting points appear to be the same so I think this unit could retro-fit into our machines with the K46 TT hydrostatic drives. I may just go that route if I have to rebuild this piece of junk hydro again. B. View attachment 381039

I had a Craftsman with HydroGear that self-destructed after about 300 hours. Intentionally avoided a mower with Hydrogear when I bought the Husqvarna with K46. The Husqvarna began to slip at about 300 hours and I changed the oil to 15W50 synthetic. Worked well till recently. Just crossed 500 hours. It is beginning to slip on steeper places after about 20-30 minutes. I changed the oil again last week and included LucasOil synthetic oil treatment (20% of volume). It didn't change anything and I haven't decided what I'll do next. I mow about 4 acres in hills of East Tennessee, so the mower has a pretty good challenge.
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #748  
I mow about 4 acres in hills of East Tennessee, so the mower has a pretty good challenge.

East TN? Newport TN? You know Tuff Torq is in Morristown TN - a short walk from you. Think Derick Dalton at Tuff Torq there does rebuilds on the side. He even does an upgrade to the K46 to make it a K57. I also live in TN - Cleveland TN but if mine ever goes out I'm making the drive to Morristown about 2.5 hours away.
 
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   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #749  
East TN? Newport TN? You know Tuff Torq is in Morristown TN - a short walk from you. Think Derick Dalton at Tuff Torq there does rebuilds on the side. He even does an upgrade to the K46 to make it a K57. I also live in TN - Cleveland TN but if mine ever goes out I'm making the drive to Morristown about 2.5 hours away.

Thanks, RBL. Yes, I live in Newport, so TuffTorq service center is only about half an hour away. I spoke with Derick a couple of years ago when I changed to synthetic oil. I'll probably contact him when I tackle the next step. The K57 upgrade sounds interesting.
 
   / TuffTorq K46 Repair Guide with Pictures #750  
5 20 13 074.jpg5 20 13 089.jpgWell now that I spent $300 on the Scotts L2548 trans. pump block (works fine now) the rest of the mower is falling apart.....Brigs engine pops and backfires...the starter clicks and randomly engages, then sticks on after the engine starts, and the new mower deck belt is fraying at the edges after the first use....Not to mention the time spent on snapped bolt on the electric pto a few years ago. I suppose my 3 acres is just too much to ask for this home depot machine. I found a starter on e-bay for $33. will maybe buy a new fuel pump and new fuel hose to the gas tank, try to fix the deck (maybe spring for the kevlar belt). Sorry I had to Rant. Will borrow my dads old 210 next weekend. Oh yea the steering has broken several times too.
 
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