Under fence mower,?

[BHD]

was thinking three point or pull type, (no ATV here), so it would be tractor pulled,

Has any one built one?

If so what did you do, and what would you not do or redo if rebuilding?

I do not know weather to build a sole purpose under fence only mower, or some type of attachment to my 10 foot mower that is on three point,

what would you suggest for power source?

A large vertical shaft lawn tractor type engine, 12 horse min, preferable 20 hp, belt drive?

hydraulic motor most likely belt or chain drive?

or PTO gear box?

what would you make the blades like?
swingng like on most tractor type mowers, (bush hog style)

disk with sycle blades bolted or rivited,

use small cable and make a industral type weed eater, (note: this not ground person ran)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I like the looks of this unit in general,
this unit looks good, The Fence Mower FM 60: Fence Mowing Made Easy!
this one has the little trailing wheels that in our blow sand, I doubt would be that efficient, and the Castor action of them may be limited,
Fence runner mower mows under fences around posts
not sure if the picture will come through below, but was wondering about some thing like but mounted behind my 10 foot mower, on one side, (I guess depending on the mounting one could possibly switch from side to side, was thinking of using a guard that would rotate so it would roll around the posts,
http://quadmoto.com/bilder/produkte...el-und-Zaunspezial-Maeher-Trimmer-Swisher.jpg

 

[pacerron]

was thinking three point or pull type, (no ATV here), so it would be tractor pulled,

Has any one built one?

If so what did you do, and what would you not do or redo if rebuilding?

I do not know weather to build a sole purpose under fence only mower, or some type of attachment to my 10 foot mower that is on three point,

what would you suggest for power source?

A large vertical shaft lawn tractor type engine, 12 horse min, preferable 20 hp, belt drive?

hydraulic motor most likely belt or chain drive?

or PTO gear box?

what would you make the blades like?
swingng like on most tractor type mowers, (bush hog style)

disk with sycle blades bolted or rivited,

use small cable and make a industral type weed eater, (note: this not ground person ran)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I like the looks of this unit in general,
this unit looks good, The Fence Mower FM 60: Fence Mowing Made Easy!
this one has the little trailing wheels that in our blow sand, I doubt would be that efficient, and the Castor action of them may be limited,
Fence runner mower mows under fences around posts
not sure if the picture will come through below, but was wondering about some thing like but mounted behind my 10 foot mower, on one side, (I guess depending on the mounting one could possibly switch from side to side, was thinking of using a guard that would rotate so it would roll around the posts,
http://quadmoto.com/bilder/produkte...el-und-Zaunspezial-Maeher-Trimmer-Swisher.jpg

It looks like a string trimmer would still be required around every post with the mowers. Unless this is a fancy lawn fence, the best way is to use round-up a couple times a season. My wife rides around the pasture fences here on a lawn tractor pulling a little trailer that has a 15 gallon power sprayer in it. She holds the wand in one hand and squirts roundup under the bottom fence wire as she goes. Makes a path about a foot wide.

 

[94BULLITT]

I would start with one of these and build something out of it.

 

[BHD]

My Idea is not for perfection but utility to knock down the weeds and grass under electric fences and to keep it clear so sand does not blow in the grass and weeds and build up, if it worked well I could be mowing up to 15 miles of fence lines, mostly electric and or barbed wire, when I mow with the large mower and even if I can mow both sides, there is a 24" strip that is not mowed, and trying to swing that 10 foot three point mower around ever post is a challenge on me and the posts,

I was thinking a string trimmer type thing so if I hit rocks or sage brush or broken posts that were never dug out, it would not bend or break things,

if there is a small bunch of grass right at the post In 99.9% of the situations it would not be a problem,

also my thought is if I can mow out from under the fence even with animals in the fence if there is little grass under the wire there is less pressure on the fences, as the cows are not reaching under after it,

(I have tryed the lawn tractor, and all you do is get beat to death on it, and stuck in the sand),

 

[boggen]

fence wire itself, is a bloody killer to any type of string and blades that might hit the fence wire. other words, having a fence spaced up off the ground enough, and keep any sort of bowing in center between posts down to min. is a huge thing.

when putting up a fence to keep the pups in, last year. i set the fence about 2 to 3 inches off the ground. and tried weed eater. both hand held, and weed eater on wheels. and it does help reduce amount of times string catches on the fence wire. i then added 1/2" galvanized pipe, to the bottom of the fence wire. and used some regular pipe hangers to hold the pipe on posts. and some wire between pipe and bottom wire on fence to hold them together. this was a big improvement. when using hand held weed eater, to weed eater on wheels.

if i did not have the pipe already. i would of went with metal posts / supports. that you tend to see dog runs / kennels made from. for the bottom pipe. and kept the bottom of the pipe off the ground 2 to 3 inches.

the pipe also helps keep pups from trying to squeeze through under fence. (or less they dig that is.)

=================

problem with any fence is the "posts" reason why many including myself will use a "total weed" killer. and just spray a few inches on each side of the fence 2 to 4 times a year. more so on pasture / field fence.

there really is no easy way to mount a blade or string on something. to get around both sides of a post as you drive down the fence line even if you double back going down opposite side of fence. due to having to backup multi times to get around posts.

=================
if you had live stock. like cattle to horses. and went with wooden rails. you might be able to keep the bottom board. up off the ground 6" to 12" high off ground. so you could barely turn a finishing mower below bottom board. but would still need to go back with weed eater to get around posts.

look in the "2 wheel" tractor forum. they make a "sickle bar" mower that is self propelled. (like self propelled push mower) and might work awesome on a fence line, were the bottom fence wire or board is off the ground a couple inches.

 

[pacerron]

My Idea is not for perfection but utility to knock down the weeds and grass under electric fences and to keep it clear so sand does not blow in the grass and weeds and build up, if it worked well I could be mowing up to 15 miles of fence lines, mostly electric and or barbed wire, when I mow with the large mower and even if I can mow both sides, there is a 24" strip that is not mowed, and trying to swing that 10 foot three point mower around ever post is a challenge on me and the posts,

I was thinking a string trimmer type thing so if I hit rocks or sage brush or broken posts that were never dug out, it would not bend or break things,

if there is a small bunch of grass right at the post In 99.9% of the situations it would not be a problem,

also my thought is if I can mow out from under the fence even with animals in the fence if there is little grass under the wire there is less pressure on the fences, as the cows are not reaching under after it,

(I have tryed the lawn tractor, and all you do is get beat to death on it, and stuck in the sand),

Then I repeat.... Round-up!
Since you are doing field fence for livestock and have a 10 foot mower mounted to your 3 pt you should be able to get within a few inches of the fence line on each side while mowing at a reasonable speed. Mount a sprayer tank with electric pump on one side of your 10 foot mower deck or on your tractor with a remote control for the sprayer nozzle on-off near your seat. Rig the nozzle so it sprays a path under the fence as you mow along it.
Round-up or the generic brand has become quite economical in 2.5 or 5 gallon concentrate.

 

[94BULLITT]

If I had 15 miles of fence to maintain I would buy something like that fence mower FM60. You can ever go wrong with a piece of 3ph equipment, it makes for one less engine to maintain and is usually well built. If you went with one or built one with a engine I would stay away from a briggs and stratton engines.

 

[BHD]

I am organic on my farm, and chemicals are out and I would not kill the grass in the fence row regardless or the soil will blow way and I have enough blow holes in the pasture the way it is,

much of the soil in the pasture ground is like beach sand,

 

[PossumHound]

Then I repeat.... Round-up!
Since you are doing field fence for livestock and have a 10 foot mower mounted to your 3 pt you should be able to get within a few inches of the fence line on each side while mowing at a reasonable speed. Mount a sprayer tank with electric pump on one side of your 10 foot mower deck or on your tractor with a remote control for the sprayer nozzle on-off near your seat. Rig the nozzle so it sprays a path under the fence as you mow along it.
Round-up or the generic brand has become quite economical in 2.5 or 5 gallon concentrate.

With that much fence-line you need this to use glyphosate to really keep grass down; plus, no extra loop around the fence with a separate trimming implement since you're spraying while you're mowing (when on the fence--line at least). That seems to be the DOT approach to highway fences/guardrails too around here and the results look decent.

PH

 

[PossumHound]

I am organic on my farm, and chemicals are out and I would not kill the grass in the fence row regardless or the soil will blow way and I have enough blow holes in the pasture the way it is,

much of the soil in the pasture ground is like beach sand,

In my previous pro-roundup post, I had considered adding an attractive alternative - wildflowers or such to completely eliminate fence-line trimming. But reading now that you're intent on a no-till/no-kill solution, why not cultivate desirable plants under your fence-line? Native wildflowers might please the wife to boot.

PH