Unloading without supporting the rear-end of the trailer a bad idea?

[ovrszd]

Good habits are imperative for trailer loading and unloading. Being able to load and unload the machine with a minimum of force on the tow vehicle is the key. In a perfect world the tow vehicle would not move an inch in any direction, up down forward or back. I have seen people place a block of wood inter the trailer to reduce negative tongue pressure. Have a set of chocks and don't be afraid to use them.

If you bounce the tow vehicle around enough eventually something going to give, expect it.

Wouldn't you have to block all four corners of the trailer to prevent the tow vehicle not moving an inch in any direction?? Then wouldn't you need access to a jack to get the blocks out from under the front corners of the trailer??

I've never loaded a trailer without causing movement on the tow vehicle. :confused3:

 

[mikesee]

Wouldn't you have to block all four corners of the trailer to prevent the tow vehicle not moving an inch in any direction?? Then wouldn't you need access to a jack to get the blocks out from under the front corners of the trailer?? I've never loaded a trailer without causing movement on the tow vehicle. :confused3:

Just an aspiration a target and an challenge to use as much finesse as possible loading and unloading the machine

 

[joefromga]

You don't need them on the front because it's connected to the tow vehicle. They are intended to keep the tail of the trailer pushing down to the ground and lifting the trailer hitch off the ball or actually picking up the tow vehicle's rear end. With rear jack stands you avoid the teeter totter.

 

[ovrszd]

You don't need them on the front because it's connected to the tow vehicle. They are intended to keep the tail of the trailer pushing down to the ground and lifting the trailer hitch off the ball or actually picking up the tow vehicle's rear end. With rear jack stands you avoid the teeter totter.

Yeah, I was just giving Mike a hard time for his statement that the tow vehicle shouldn't move when loading.

 

[MESSMAKER]

It is a good idea because without it can put a lot of stress on the back of your trailer. It can flex a bit under the weight. It will tear your fenders off over time.

 

[WM75Guy]

Here are two good video examples together of why you need something under the rear of the trailer.

Two Trailer Loading Fails - YouTube

 

[MossRoad]

You could throw a wheel chock between the tires of the dual axles and even if the trailer lifts the tow vehicle's rear wheels enough to lose braking, the trailer won't roll in either direction.

Wheel Chocks for Trucks and Trailers

 

[MossRoad]

I use a 16' BP aluminum car hauler only 1-2 times a year to haul my 5,000 pound CUT. Typically I think I should put some blocks under the back of the trailer to keep it from lifting up the back of the truck when unloading and typically I end up just driving off without the support. Any reason not to do this, damage to the trailer or truck? It raises the hitch about a foot and the deck gets within 6" of the ground when all the weight gets behind the tandems. I could almost unload without using the ramps which are not attached to the trailer.

You could keep a section of pressure treated 6X6 or 8X8 pinned on the trailer for safe keeping. Then unpin it and set it under the center of the rear deck before loading/unloading. The only problems with wheel chocks, blocks, etc... is driving off without them. Attached jacks don't cost that much and you won't lose them. You might damage them if you drive off with them down, though. But then you should catch that on your walk-around that you do last thing each time before driving off with a trailer..... speaking of which, I ran over my push broom with both trailer axles yesterday. I swept the winter dirt off my trailer and leaned the broom next to the trailer and then moved the trailer ahead about 10' just to put air in the tires and did not do my walk around. Always do your walk around each time you move the trailer.

The broom survived without a scratch!

 

[hawkeye08]

The 20' car trailer we bought has jacks on back corners. Work well to support back. They also worked well to change a flat tire. We had a tire loose air just as we were pulling off exit to check load tie downs. We were only stopped 15 minutes, changed tire, tightened load tie downs, jack was very handy. I had a hydraulic jack along in case but did not need it.

 

[N80]

I just got a new 19' flatbed with 8k pound capacity (gross). There is a decal on the dovetail that says to support the rear of the trailer for loading anything over 3000 pounds. I've got 4x6 and 6x6 cribbing that I've used but like the idea of jack stands. Like the idea of attached jacks even better.

 

[terryknight]

adjustable jack are good since once you load you can adjust them up, otherwise you need to make sure you leave enough room to get the stands/cribbing out.

 

[N80]

One of these welded to each corner would work well but I might just simplify and get a couple of adjustable jack stands which can be use for other stuff as well.

Fulton Drop-Leg Stabilizer Jack with Mounting Channel - Weld-On - 28" Leg - 13" Bracket - Fulton Camper Jack FSJ1-SJ2

 

[nikerret]

I have never supported the rear of the trailer, nor seen anyone else do it, on a standard size (7K) trailer. I have seen the tow vehicle do some dancing, when we loaded a full size pickup and another time, winched up a minivan. I guess we've just been lucky. When I load the BX, it doesn't move THAT much. Trailer tire location to rear of trailer has a lot to do with how much tilt you get. Due to this thread, I am considering making a block, to put under the rear, for loading larger vehicles.

 

[cmyoung2]

A friend of mine, Highway patrolman, was loading a fair sized tractor onto a gooseneck trailer attached to his crewcab, 4x4 dually. We are in the mountains so flat ground is scarce. Even though the truck was in gear, parking brake set, when he got almost on the trailer, it picked the rear end of the truck off the ground, truck, trailer, and tractor took a quick trip down the drive, across the highway, and through the neighbors yard. He panicked, like most of us would do and jumped. Broke hip, shoulder, ribs, banged up pretty bad, but is doing fine now. The rest of the rig finally stopped, no damage. Blocks between trailer tires might have stopped it, blocks under the front truck tires might have stopped it, putting the truck in 4x4 would have stopped it, but blocking up the rear of the trailer seems to work every time.

 

[MossRoad]

One of these welded to each corner would work well but I might just simplify and get a couple of adjustable jack stands which can be use for other stuff as well.

Fulton Drop-Leg Stabilizer Jack with Mounting Channel - Weld-On - 28" Leg - 13" Bracket - Fulton Camper Jack FSJ1-SJ2

The only potential problem I see with pinned supports like that is somehow getting a lot of weight towards the tongue of the trailer, dropping and pinning the support at the rear of the trailer, unloading the trailer, which springs the tongue up and then there's a bunch of empty trailer weight on the pin and you can't pull it out with your hand.

Anyone run into that? :confused3:

 

[LD1]

I carry around a jackstand or two with a flat plate welded to the bottom. The legs of jackstands made for a garage will just burry themselves, thus the flat plate.

The legs on my trailer ramps are inadequate. And are the same as every other trailer I have seen, so dont think its a design issue there.

The trailer is a 25' GN 24k trailer. When loading my light kubota (~5000#) I dont use the stands. No need.

But when hauling a 16-18k dozer or backhoe that I have done a few times, the stands on the ramps arent enough and jackstands are required. The first time I went to load the D3 dozer (~17k), The ramp legs did their job and only allowed the rear of the trailer to squat just a bit til they made contact with the ground. But since where the ramps are attach is a pivot point, once the dozer started climbing the dove, and most of the weight was on the section of trailer BEHIND the axle, but yet forward of the stands on the ramps, up went the truck and down went the back of the trailer.

Didnt have any blocking or jackstands handy at the time. Had to put the truck in 4wd so the front axle would keep her from scooting away as we loaded.

So now the jackstands always go with me if I am gonna load heavy. A longer GN trailer may not have had the leverage to do this??? but my 25' trailer and the D3 sure had no issues raising the rears of my 8000# DRW truck

 

[RobertN]

Only once, cause it is embarrassing when you have to go to another station and pick it up(and buy ice cream for the other station!).

It happens now and then in the Fire service. Had a friend who had to go pick up his chock... Not something you do a second time

The only problems with wheel chocks, blocks, etc... is driving off without them.

 

[N80]

The only potential problem I see with pinned supports like that is somehow getting a lot of weight towards the tongue of the trailer, dropping and pinning the support at the rear of the trailer, unloading the trailer, which springs the tongue up and then there's a bunch of empty trailer weight on the pin and you can't pull it out with your hand.

Anyone run into that? :confused3:

Good point.

A few pieces of cribbing starting to look like the cheapest, simplest and maybe most effective method.

 

[joefromga]

Or a tilt deck trailer.

 

[N80]

Or a tilt deck trailer.

Too late and too much $$$.