Update-Second time around with Keyed Ignition Switch issue on my CK30

   / Update-Second time around with Keyed Ignition Switch issue on my CK30 #11  
I would also pull and check your ground strap from the battery to the tractor frame they are notorious for going bad in the cable where you cant see it. To check the clutch switch the next time it wont start keep holding the key in the start position and push and release the clutch pedal a few times if it starts up you have probably found your problem. Also could be relays getting weak as well.
 
   / Update-Second time around with Keyed Ignition Switch issue on my CK30 #12  
I would also pull and check your ground strap from the battery to the tractor frame .

Yes, I did this as well as cleaning out the switch, so I'm not sure which one actually fixed it, but it hasn't failed to start since.
 
   / Update-Second time around with Keyed Ignition Switch issue on my CK30
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Yes, I did this as well as cleaning out the switch, so I'm not sure which one actually fixed it, but it hasn't failed to start since.

That's a good idea jabelding, I will do that.

Creekflats, did you notice anything wrong when you serviced the Ground strap? Did you install a new cable and did you use any dielectric grease on the contact areas? Thanks guys. I will update on both the cable and clutch switch in the coming few weeks, weather permitting. Of course I'll be forced to dig into the issue more if the tractor gives me grief...
Dutchy
 
   / Update-Second time around with Keyed Ignition Switch issue on my CK30 #14  
That's a good idea jabelding, I will do that.

Creekflats, did you notice anything wrong when you serviced the Ground strap? Did you install a new cable and did you use any dielectric grease on the contact areas? Thanks guys. I will update on both the cable and clutch switch in the coming few weeks, weather permitting. Of course I'll be forced to dig into the issue more if the tractor gives me grief...
Dutchy

Yes, I took the cable and bolt completely off and cleaned with sandpaper where it bolts to the frame as well as the battery terminal; then applied dielectric grease and did it up tight. I couldn't see anything obviously wrong with it, but I remember thinking if it didn't work I would get a generic cable from an autoparts store. When I put it back together it all worked so I didn't need to do that.

I also flushed out the ignition switch with electrical parts cleaner, so I'm not entirely sure which end was the problem.
 
   / Update-Second time around with Keyed Ignition Switch issue on my CK30
  • Thread Starter
#15  
So I decided to get more firewood for the shop, as it was a nice but cold and sunny day. Turned the key to heat the glow plugs, then cycled through to crank the engine...nothing. I pumped the clutch pedal, then held it down and cycled the glow plugs and tried again to crank....nothing, then held the crank position on and pumped the clutch pedal, held it down too...nothing. So I wiggled the key back and forth several times until it cranked and she fired right up. Thinking it's not the clutch safety switch. After cutting/getting a load of wood to the shop I killed the engine and removed the ground cable completely. I cleaned/sanded all the contacts, although not dirty at all, and smeared di-electric grease at the connections and fastened everything up. There might have been a little bit of rust at the frame bolt under the washer, but sanded and greased it all, so now we'll see how she starts from here on in. I must say....that once the tractor has been started and run for some time, it always starts up if I've shut it off, to return to the tractor shed. Battery has load tested in the mid range (good) and is original. It is always on a battery maintainer too. I'll stay in touch and advise what she does the next time, Dutchy
 
   / Update-Second time around with Keyed Ignition Switch issue on my CK30 #16  
I had a similar problem with my CK20. Turned out to be a corroded pin in a connector on the hot from the battery to the ignition switch. It was intermittent until it corroded so bad it couldn’t carry any current. But it would light a test light at the ignition switch. About drove me nuts. Check the wiring harness connectors, all of them. 10CE9AFC-5CB2-4112-A352-D3782627A909.jpeg6A139753-EEFE-4A57-B055-4BD8B38A063E.jpeg
 
   / Update-Second time around with Keyed Ignition Switch issue on my CK30 #17  
I had a similar problem with my CK20. Turned out to be a corroded pin in a connector on the hot from the battery to the ignition switch. It was intermittent until it corroded so bad it couldn稚 carry any current. But it would light a test light at the ignition switch. About drove me nuts. Check the wiring harness connectors, all of them. View attachment 679123View attachment 679124

I have hade the same issue with my CK20, but not quite as bad as yours. Also my connectors are different, more of a two row connector. Did you replace both connectors or only one?

Rancho
CK 20 HST
 
   / Update-Second time around with Keyed Ignition Switch issue on my CK30 #18  
I have hade the same issue with my CK20, but not quite as bad as yours. Also my connectors are different, more of a two row connector. Did you replace both connectors or only one?

Rancho
CK 20 HST

Didn’t replace the connector. Had to do a field expedited repair and run a wire around the connector bypassing just the corroded connector. Will fix properly after winter, although my repair will last.
 
   / Update-Second time around with Keyed Ignition Switch issue on my CK30 #19  
Didn稚 replace the connector. Had to do a field expedited repair and run a wire around the connector bypassing just the corroded connector. Will fix properly after winter, although my repair will last.

Here is what my connectors look like.


IMG_2418.jpg

IMG_2417.jpg


Rancho
CK 20 HST
 
   / Update-Second time around with Keyed Ignition Switch issue on my CK30
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Update....fingers crossed. I took the Ground cable and bolt completely off and cleaned with sandpaper where it bolts to the frame as well as the battery terminal; then applied dielectric grease and did it up tight. She starts as good as ever, each and every time.....Thanks to the advice from Jabelds and Creekflats above. So far so good, about 6 weeks now. Thanks, Dutchy
 

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