Update-Second time around with Keyed Ignition Switch issue on my CK30

[Robin Veerman]

Hey guys,
So for about 18 months I've been fighting with the ignition switch on my 2014 CK30 HST. Every once in a while I would have to spray some light oil into the switch and all would be good for a while. Eventually it got bad enough that I bought a new switch and installed it 2.5 months/25 hours ago. A couple of days afterwards the tractor wouldn't turn over when I turned the key. The usual glow plugs and solenoid click, but no crank. Thought it odd...but sprayed some light oil into the switch, and voila it cranked and started. All was good for a few weeks until today when I decided to install the snowblower and do it's annual oil/filter change. No go again. Lots of turn the key, pull the key out, turn the key with glow plugs, pull the key out, try it all again...nothing. This is worse than the switch I replaced!! Sprayed a little light oil into the switch and after 10 minutes tried it again and she cranked and fired. So....is the new switch bad too??? Part number on the invoice is k-t4520-75176. Is this a NOS part, and is there a new/updated part numbered switch instead that I should be asking for? Anyone else had a similar issue and resolved it? Tractor is always stored inside, if anyone is wondering....
Thanks, Dutchy

 

[CreekFlats]

I had this same recurring problem with mine, and tried flushing out the switch with WD40, then Silicone spray and they'd work for a while, but then it wouldn't start. In the end I gave the ignition switch a really good spray of electrical contact cleaner (really got in there with a tube on the spray can - like I was hosing it out). And just to be certain I also undid all the battery connectors, put dielectric grease on them and did them up tight. So far it hasn't happened again - a few months now.

 

[Alien]

No problem with my 2006 ign switch ever. Maybe you should look for old stock.
Mine sleeps in a barn, not outside.

 

[PILOON]

Fairly common problem.
The lubricant in the switches go hard from heat, especially if under direct sun.
A spray lubricant will generally soften the lube and restore proper function.

 

[Alien]

I think if it was a heat thing, mine would be one of the first to go.

 

[Robin Veerman]

I'm also thinking about another possible issue. Would the clutch (HST) safety switch cause the issues that I'm currently having? Especially now that I've replaced the ignition switch and the initial problem continued. Just thinking out loud.... If the switch was defective or slow to respond when I depress the pedal, would I see this problem? I mean everything shows fine on the dash... glow plugs activated etc., but then no cranking when I turn the key to start the engine. Eventually it will start. Over a year ago I had the clutch pedal latched so that I could start/stop the engine without having to sit in the seat and the latch slipped causing the pedal to pop up quite hard. I wonder if that force could have caused damage to the safety switch. Dutchy

 

[caver]

I took mine apart years ago and cleaned all the old gummy grease out. (DK40) I did have an issue where i would crank hard on the switch and there was enough room i would overshoot the contacts. That one puzzled me for awhile until one day I figured it out.
If you take the switch apart two springs and two ball bearings can go flying. Another weird issue I finally had was the relays would cycle on off rapidly when switching to glow plug. A low voltage condition was causing this. I had a battery with possibly a cell failing. Give it a little charge and start no problem. I replaced the battery a month ago and starts just fine now.

 

[Amvcane]

Yes, you would see the same symptoms with an intermitantly bad clutch safety switch. Robin, I have not looked at any electrical schematics. I have physically confirmed that: clutch not depressed, turn key fully to start and tractor will not start. Hold key in start position and depress clutch, tractor will start.
I'm sure you know what to do next. Keep us posted.
Andrew

 

[Robin Veerman]

Thanks for the info Andrew. I changed out the ignition switch on a beautiful Autumn day, but I'm not looking forward to changing the clutch safety switch now that we're into the cold season. However, I will talk to my dealer and inquire what the cost of the safety switch is and I might order it, just to have it handy to change out on a nice sunny winter's day. But it will be better than switching it out during a snow storm. Is there a way to bypass the clutch safety switch, in the mean time? Thanks, Dutchy

 

[Amvcane]

If you look above the clutch you will see the switch attached with 2 bullet connectors. The plunger is adjustable so the peddle depresses it properly.

 

[jabelding]

I would also pull and check your ground strap from the battery to the tractor frame they are notorious for going bad in the cable where you cant see it. To check the clutch switch the next time it wont start keep holding the key in the start position and push and release the clutch pedal a few times if it starts up you have probably found your problem. Also could be relays getting weak as well.

 

[CreekFlats]

I would also pull and check your ground strap from the battery to the tractor frame .

Yes, I did this as well as cleaning out the switch, so I'm not sure which one actually fixed it, but it hasn't failed to start since.

 

[Robin Veerman]

Yes, I did this as well as cleaning out the switch, so I'm not sure which one actually fixed it, but it hasn't failed to start since.

That's a good idea jabelding, I will do that.

Creekflats, did you notice anything wrong when you serviced the Ground strap? Did you install a new cable and did you use any dielectric grease on the contact areas? Thanks guys. I will update on both the cable and clutch switch in the coming few weeks, weather permitting. Of course I'll be forced to dig into the issue more if the tractor gives me grief...
Dutchy

 

[CreekFlats]

That's a good idea jabelding, I will do that.

Creekflats, did you notice anything wrong when you serviced the Ground strap? Did you install a new cable and did you use any dielectric grease on the contact areas? Thanks guys. I will update on both the cable and clutch switch in the coming few weeks, weather permitting. Of course I'll be forced to dig into the issue more if the tractor gives me grief...
Dutchy

Yes, I took the cable and bolt completely off and cleaned with sandpaper where it bolts to the frame as well as the battery terminal; then applied dielectric grease and did it up tight. I couldn't see anything obviously wrong with it, but I remember thinking if it didn't work I would get a generic cable from an autoparts store. When I put it back together it all worked so I didn't need to do that.

I also flushed out the ignition switch with electrical parts cleaner, so I'm not entirely sure which end was the problem.

 

[Robin Veerman]

So I decided to get more firewood for the shop, as it was a nice but cold and sunny day. Turned the key to heat the glow plugs, then cycled through to crank the engine...nothing. I pumped the clutch pedal, then held it down and cycled the glow plugs and tried again to crank....nothing, then held the crank position on and pumped the clutch pedal, held it down too...nothing. So I wiggled the key back and forth several times until it cranked and she fired right up. Thinking it's not the clutch safety switch. After cutting/getting a load of wood to the shop I killed the engine and removed the ground cable completely. I cleaned/sanded all the contacts, although not dirty at all, and smeared di-electric grease at the connections and fastened everything up. There might have been a little bit of rust at the frame bolt under the washer, but sanded and greased it all, so now we'll see how she starts from here on in. I must say....that once the tractor has been started and run for some time, it always starts up if I've shut it off, to return to the tractor shed. Battery has load tested in the mid range (good) and is original. It is always on a battery maintainer too. I'll stay in touch and advise what she does the next time, Dutchy

 

[glmf]

I had a similar problem with my CK20. Turned out to be a corroded pin in a connector on the hot from the battery to the ignition switch. It was intermittent until it corroded so bad it couldn’t carry any current. But it would light a test light at the ignition switch. About drove me nuts. Check the wiring harness connectors, all of them.

 

[Ranchofla]

I had a similar problem with my CK20. Turned out to be a corroded pin in a connector on the hot from the battery to the ignition switch. It was intermittent until it corroded so bad it couldn稚 carry any current. But it would light a test light at the ignition switch. About drove me nuts. Check the wiring harness connectors, all of them. View attachment 679123View attachment 679124

I have hade the same issue with my CK20, but not quite as bad as yours. Also my connectors are different, more of a two row connector. Did you replace both connectors or only one?

Rancho
CK 20 HST

 

[glmf]

I have hade the same issue with my CK20, but not quite as bad as yours. Also my connectors are different, more of a two row connector. Did you replace both connectors or only one?

Rancho
CK 20 HST

Didn’t replace the connector. Had to do a field expedited repair and run a wire around the connector bypassing just the corroded connector. Will fix properly after winter, although my repair will last.

 

[Ranchofla]

Didn稚 replace the connector. Had to do a field expedited repair and run a wire around the connector bypassing just the corroded connector. Will fix properly after winter, although my repair will last.

Here is what my connectors look like.







Rancho
CK 20 HST

 

[Robin Veerman]

Update....fingers crossed. I took the Ground cable and bolt completely off and cleaned with sandpaper where it bolts to the frame as well as the battery terminal; then applied dielectric grease and did it up tight. She starts as good as ever, each and every time.....Thanks to the advice from Jabelds and Creekflats above. So far so good, about 6 weeks now. Thanks, Dutchy