vermeer 206 stump grinder

[bigballer]

What is your pic detailing? Which part drops voltage? What parts are they?

that is the backside of the rocker switch that controls the up/down of the cutting wheel which is powered by an electric motor. incidentally it is not shown in the wiring diagram. there is a hot lead that comes directly off the battery to that rocker, there is power there as well as ground because it works to raise/lower the cutting wheel and has ever since I replaced the battery. now from that switch there are several other wires, one of which goes to the key switch. I tested all of these and none of them have power. seems logical there should be some power leading from this rocker to the key switch and that seems to be the break in the circuit. I will see if I can get these removed and cleaned up as you can see they have been painted. fyi that switch to the right of the rocker is the KILL switch.

 

[bigballer]

Did you get an exact switch replacement?

it appears to be the same but my guess is that the original switch might still be good based on the above response to coyote.

I believe the switch has to be grounded.

i thought so as well but when i tested with it being grounded there was no change

If you take a reading from the rectifier with the switch on, you should get 12 v.

i will check this once i can get power to the switch, i do not get any voltage readings on any of the terminals on the switch while the harness is plugged into it. tested all with key off, on, and in start position.

When charging, there is about 26 or higher volts AC and that is rectified to charge the battery.

Using the old switch, do you have 12 volts going to the B+ terminal, and if you turn the key to start, do you now have 12 volts to the S terminal. If so, then the solenoid on the starter should have 12 v and try and start.

agreed but currently there is no power to the switch.

The voltage path has to be complete.

I believe the white wire is ground, and the G terminal is grounded to the switch base.

Will look further in the wiring diagram.

yes, the white wire is ground and this has tested successful all the way through to the switch.

 

[bigballer]

Look at fig 8-11 if it has a 25 amp charging circuit.

i have the 15 amp charging as the violet wire comes from the switch and leaded to the rectifier, no power here either.

If the ign switch will not provide 12v to the starter solenoid, turn ing to on and then take a jumper wire from the battery 12v and touch the solenoid start terminal.

You should have 12 v on the large lug on solenoid, just jumper across with screw driver.

this works and engages the starter and turns over the motor

They make a lot of those ign switches, You have to get the right one.

i'll double check this

 

[CobyRupert]

This may be unrelated, but how does the pressure switch get bypassed when you're starting the motor? That is, isn't it true the switch shouldn't be a part of the start circuit, but should only stop the motor (when it needs to).

 

[Coyote machine]

This may be unrelated, but how does the pressure switch get bypassed when you're starting the motor? That is, isn't it true the switch shouldn't be a part of the start circuit, but should only stop the motor (when it needs to).

It should be disengaged in 'crank' and engaged in 'run', when oil pressure 'should' be present. If not it would 'open' the circuit and stall/stop the motor for lack of oil pressure.

 

[Coyote machine]

BB, try bringing a 12 volt lead wire, (from the battery positive) directly to the terminal on the ignition switch that ought to be receiving 12 volts at all times; and then try using the ig switch to crank over the engine. Make sure you can remove the lead wire if necessary without any real effort other than removing a jumper connection like an alligator clip or similar. This should show if the circuit will function with the ignition switch in place; and that will be progress toward the final solution.
I'd also like to see front view of both kill and rocker switches, thx.

 

[bigballer]

BB, try bringing a 12 volt lead wire, (from the battery positive) directly to the terminal on the ignition switch that ought to be receiving 12 volts at all times; and then try using the ig switch to crank over the engine. Make sure you can remove the lead wire if necessary without any real effort other than removing a jumper connection like an alligator clip or similar. This should show if the circuit will function with the ignition switch in place; and that will be progress toward the final solution.
I'd also like to see front view of both kill and rocker switches, thx.

I will try this, guessing the correct spade on the ign switch is the one marked B and is a fused red lead which terminates on the solenoid.

Btw I drew out all the wiring schematic in much more detail working on getting it scanned so I can post it. And it seems like I might have the wrong "new" ign switch. Ordered one directly from kohler and will arrive tomorrow.

Here is a pic.

 

[Coyote machine]

I will try this, guessing the correct spade on the ign switch is the one marked B and is a fused red lead which terminates on the solenoid.

Btw I drew out all the wiring schematic in much more detail working on getting it scanned so I can post it. And it seems like I might have the wrong "new" ign switch. Ordered one directly from kohler and will arrive tomorrow.

Here is a pic.



View attachment 333217



View attachment 333218



View attachment 333219

Hey BB, nice pics, but maybe go back and flip the first to right side up?

And here's a thought- is it possible the machine forward/reverse/transport lever is in some position other than neutral? If so it could be locking out the ignition from working to start the machine?! Move that lever around while trying to start it....:confused3:
If not, possibly your new ig switch will do the trick!
BTW, what is the vintage of the 206 ? Looks like what I was around in the late 60's early 70's?:confused3:

 

[bigballer]

Hey BB, nice pics, but maybe go back and flip the first to right side up?

And here's a thought- is it possible the machine forward/reverse/transport lever is in some position other than neutral? If so it could be locking out the ignition from working to start the machine?! Move that lever around while trying to start it....:confused3:
If not, possibly your new ig switch will do the trick!
BTW, what is the vintage of the 206 ? Looks like what I was around in the late 60's early 70's?:confused3:

I am not sure how to flip it, it was correct orientation on my camera, maybe a bug. you can right click and choose save as then open and rotate it..

I did the forward/reverse fiddling while trying to start multiple times thinking that might be the issue, also the cutting wheel engage lever (tightens/loosens cutter belt)has been moved around to ensure it wasn't locking out the ignition.

based on SN it was built in 1991-92.

I sure hope the new switch does the trick but will upload my wiring drawing tonight.

 

[Coyote machine]

Yes, I could rotate it, the pic, but I want you to do it for me :laughing:
Just letting you know you can do it where you set up the pics to be posted too.
Anyway, back to the past- the machine might want to install the new switch and then with one hand move the lever while turning the key with the other and using your right foot to move the on/kill switch, etc., etc.