vermeer 206 stump grinder

[Stonehaller]

it could very well be the oil pressure switch odd though that it connects to the hour meter.

The oil pressure switch is often used so that the hour meter only runs when the engine is started, i.e. when there is oil pressure.

Make sure the coil on the starter solenoid has a good ground connection. One side of the coil will have the blue wire from the ignition switch, the other side must be grounded. The ground may be made through the mounting bracket for the solenoid.

 

[Coyote machine]

If it is the oil switch it would just continue passing 12 volts through to the hour meter when there is sufficient oil pressure to complete the circuit. The engine would be running and recording hours on the clock.
You might try using the original ignition switch to see if anything changes as to starting, or voltage readings - just a process of elimination.
Follow the diagram and test for hot at the violet wire going to the rectifier and match up each wire color to it's corresponding letter on the keyswitch.If you haven't already, print out the diagram to have with you when troubleshooting the machine.:thumbsup:
Post back.

 

[bigballer]

If it is the oil switch it would just continue passing 12 volts through to the hour meter when there is sufficient oil pressure to complete the circuit. The engine would be running and recording hours on the clock.
You might try using the original ignition switch to see if anything changes as to starting, or voltage readings - just a process of elimination.
Follow the diagram and test for hot at the violet wire going to the rectifier and match up each wire color to it's corresponding letter on the keyswitch.If you haven't already, print out the diagram to have with you when troubleshooting the machine.:thumbsup:
Post back.

makes sense on the oil switch / meter wiring, I cleaned up and crossed those wires and no change. I also have switched back to the original switch and mounted it in it's housing thinking it might need to be grounded but no change there either.

I did print out the diagram and ID'd all the wiring and will do more testing tonight. Interesting you mention the violet wire which runs to the rectifier, i don't recall getting a reading from it before but will test again. neighbor now talking about taking it in to a "pro" so hope I can figure out the issue so we don't have to do that!

 

[Coyote machine]

There has to be a supply of 12 volts to the key switch so it can be passed to the starter when the key is turned to 'crank' engine position. I too considered the key switch might need grounding but then thought it gets it from the switch connections.
The red and white connected to the 'oil' switch might need to be connected together AND grounded since if the switch is working both wires are connected to the metal housing of the switch; it is unlikely because the switch has to isolate the wires and allow them to connect when oil pressure is sensed at the switch, but worth trying at this point.:confused3:
You may have to go to someone familiar with the machines and have them check it out- I'm running out of ideas unless the rectifier wire is playing a part or the weird backward 'kill' switch? Whatever the end result is post what happens here for the relief of the suspense, OK?!

 

[bigballer]

Yep. Simply need to figure out why there is no power to the starter through the switch .. ill go back and start over tracing from the batt through the wheel up/down rocker to the key switch..

 

[bigballer]

From battery to rocker there is 12 volt. No voltage from here to the key switch

 

[bigballer]

From battery to rocker there is 12 volt. No voltage from here to the key switch



View attachment 333081

 

[Coyote machine]

What is your pic detailing? Which part drops voltage? What parts are they?

 

[J_J]

Did you get an exact switch replacement?

I believe the switch has to be grounded.

If you take a reading from the rectifier with the switch on, you should get 12 v.

When charging, there is about 26 or higher volts AC and that is rectified to charge the battery.

Using the old switch, do you have 12 volts going to the B+ terminal, and if you turn the key to start, do you now have 12 volts to the S terminal. If so, then the solenoid on the starter should have 12 v and try and start.

The voltage path has to be complete.

I believe the white wire is ground, and the G terminal is grounded to the switch base.

Will look further in the wiring diagram.

 

[J_J]

Look at fig 8-11 if it has a 25 amp charging circuit.

The blue wire is the start wire.

Red supplies voltage to the switch.

White is kill/grd.

There may be two red wires on the B terminal.

When you flip the switch to off, it grounds out the magneto and interrupts the 12 v source..

If you have the 15 amp charging circuit. Most everything is similar except the charging wire color.

The charging wire is violet.

If the ign switch will not provide 12v to the starter solenoid, turn ing to on and then take a jumper wire from the battery 12v and touch the solenoid start terminal.

You should have 12 v on the large lug on solenoid, just jumper across with screw driver.

They make a lot of those ign switches, You have to get the right one.

You could also make up a set of switches just to start , run, and shut off engine.

If there is an oil sender, remove the wire and that prohibit grounding except by the ign switch in off mode.

They may have put interlocks somewhere to prevent disasters.

I used the 18 HP magnum engine on my 42 in Dixie Choppers.