Chipper WC-6 Chipper Photos

[JRobyn]

One suggestion/tip I have found with using my chipper - you will be happier if you chip materials as soon as possible after being cut! Once they are well-dried, they become MUCH harder which results in more noise, is harder on the chipper blades, and hurts a lot more when one whips around while being fed in and smacks you!!

- Jay

 

[3RRL]

One suggestion/tip I have found with using my chipper - you will be happier if you chip materials as soon as possible after being cut! Once they are well-dried, they become MUCH harder which results in more noise, is harder on the chipper blades, and hurts a lot more when one whips around while being fed in and smacks you!!

- Jay

That is a good point Jay,
We have some very old brush and limbs that we will burn instead of chip.
Was going to burn some today but Loretta drove over one of the clean outs of the septic tank and busted it off. She was on her way to grapple some of that old brush to move it to a burn location. So we spent the rest of the afternoon fixing that and then it started pouring just as we were finishing up. I have some freshly downed trees to chip and that should happen next week ...lol ... if no other emergencies come up.

 

[Hookblock]

One idea for the grease fittings that are hard to get at. Run a grease fitting line from an easier place to get at.

 

[3RRL]

One idea for the grease fittings that are hard to get at. Run a grease fitting line from an easier place to get at.

Yes, that's a good idea.
I did that just a couple weeks ago on my Kama when I had it split apart. I put a flexible grease line to the throw out bearing and a grease nipple on the bell housing.

 

[Bill Barrett]

One thing I forgot to post is that the first thing we did is sharpen the feed roller teeth.
Loretta was able to get the 4" angle grinder inside and put a sharp edge on every row of teeth. No need to take the roller out on this model. It was easy to do. I rotated the flywheel using the PTO drive until each row was in the same place. We got the same angle on each row that way. Plus, the roller itself was held steady for grinding purpose.

Did you run your chipper before? How much did shapening do for you?
Thanks

 

[3RRL]

Did you run your chipper before? How much did shapening do for you?
Thanks

Hi Bill,
No I didn't run it before sharpening.
I had read a couple other threads that suggested doing that from guys who did run it before they sharpened the feed roller. They all stated that smaller diameter branches were now pulled in much better than before.
So I figured to do it right off. Several rows on my feed roller were dull ... they were not all sharp. I sharpened them so the tip had about 1/32" of land left on them. And indeed, you saw that small pile of branches I had, they were all pulled in nicely when I did run it.

 

[LarryD]

Did a little chipping this weekend and I can only say it is great to take the entire arsenal to the work area (versus draging debris to a burn area) and "git-er-done"

My efforts are to focus on "parking out" the south border with a road cut on the property line. I also needed more firewood due to some colder than normal temps this year and the SWBO's need for a warm (can you say 75º) house when she comes in from tending the horses.

I knew the trees in the photos fell a couple years ago so I diverted from the SW corner where I started from to the SE corner. I just spread all the chips around to compost. Only got one tree out today but I'm not in any hurry. It was nice to buck-up the tree at chest level for the first 2/3 of the length.

 

[MarkV]

Looks good Rob. You and Loretta get some ear protection for running that thing.

MarkV

 

[3RRL]

Looks good Rob. You and Loretta get some ear protection for running that thing.

MarkV

Thanks Mark,
Hadn't thought about the ear protection so that is a good warning.
Later this week we'll start on the downed trees so it will be a much bigger job that that little pile of twigs we practiced on.
Thanks!

Larry D,
Thanks for sharing the photos. I know what you mean what a mess and what a job it is to work the burn pile. We just went through that during a rain and it was a mess.
BTw ... love your signature!

 

[denmansoft]

Rob the Gear box is under the yellow cover. the clutch mechanism is on the output of the gear reduction. Mine didn't have any oil in it..... 80W gear oil.

I'll be interested to see your solution for keeping the debri from fouling the small belt under the yellow cover. Mine still has the duct tape/cardboard. If the feed roller stops you will smell the rubber from this little belt!

I must get some cable like yours. Mine has a very clunky mechanism on top of the chute to operate the clutch.

Mine handles stuff up to 6" no problem. Mostly fir though not real hardwood stuff like it looks like you have.

We use the chips for trails and covering up the mud after I've chewed up the ground with the tractor.

 

[3RRL]

Rob the Gear box is under the yellow cover. the clutch mechanism is on the output of the gear reduction. Mine didn't have any oil in it..... 80W gear oil.

I'll be interested to see your solution for keeping the debri from fouling the small belt under the yellow cover. Mine still has the duct tape/cardboard. If the feed roller stops you will smell the rubber from this little belt!

I must get some cable like yours. Mine has a very clunky mechanism on top of the chute to operate the clutch.

Mine handles stuff up to 6" no problem. Mostly fir though not real hardwood stuff like it looks like you have.

We use the chips for trails and covering up the mud after I've chewed up the ground with the tractor.

Well I'll be taking off that cover and checking it out then.
Good thing I only tested it out a little bit. I don't know when I'll be making a belt guard for it just yet. As usual, I've been busy with a bunch of other stuff around the ranch. That's good to know yours handles 6" pine though. I won't chip stuff that big ... that'll be cut up for firewood. Right now I've got some burn piles going and it is a pain. I'll be chipping the newly cut stuff from now on. Also been splitting firewood.
Thanks!

 

[AlanB]

Since this is Loretta's new toy, she was responsible for helping assemble and also taking most of these photos. After reading the assembly instructions, she started to grease all the pillow block bearings. There are 2 that support the main drive and 2 smaller ones for the feed roller. It's best to grease them before bolting the base and cover on. Ken mentioned draining the gear box oil and re-filling it, but I could not find where to do that?
Can you tell me where that is?
Rob-

Rob, I blew up the feeder driveshaft in my WC-06 today, and was looking at the pictures of yours in this post. The picture looks to me like yours has actual small U-joints in it with bearing's etc. Mine has just pins and is made like a standard 1/2" wobble joint. The pins are worn about slap out and the assembly came apart.

Anyway, could you look at yours and tell me if they are actually a cross bearing or are they just pins?

Also, just a question, and keep meaning to ask everyone this, when you see mention of this everyone talks of greasing the bearings, yet really, when you grease those points on those pillow block bearings, are you not just greasing the outer shell of the bearing in reference to the pillow block itself? I don't believe any of that grease actually reaches the rotational parts of the bearing itself or am I missing something there?

Thanks, any suggestions you could offer on that drive line would be appreciated.

 

[wedge40]

Also, just a question, and keep meaning to ask everyone this, when you see mention of this everyone talks of greasing the bearings, yet really, when you grease those points on those pillow block bearings, are you not just greasing the outer shell of the bearing in reference to the pillow block itself? I don't believe any of that grease actually reaches the rotational parts of the bearing itself or am I missing something there?

Thanks, any suggestions you could offer on that drive line would be appreciated.

Well when I greased mine some of ran out between the pillow block and shaft.

Wedge

 

[3RRL]

Hi Alan,
I believe when you grease those pillow blocks you are indeed greasing the ball bearings. The shaft itself is not greased, but the shaft rides inside the inner race of the pillow block bearing. The inner race is supposed to rotate with the shaft. If you look closely on that second photo showing the pillow block of the main drive shaft, you can actually see a set screw that holds the shaft to the pillow block inner race. So greasing the ball bearings is important because that's where the rotational movement is.

Regarding the feeder drive shaft, I'll have to look closely at it. But as I recall, that joint is an actual "U" joint with (presumably) cup roller bearings on the end of the pins. The reason I say is 2 fold. First, I remember seeing small retaining rings that hold the cups in place and second is the pin itself is a smaller diameter than the cups are. So the pins have to have "caps" on them, but like I said, I'm only guessing that there are needle bearings in those cups like regular "U" joints. I have not had them apart yet.
Hope that helps...
Rob-

 

[AlanB]

Hi Alan,
I believe when you grease those pillow blocks you are indeed greasing the ball bearings. The shaft itself is not greased, but the shaft rides inside the inner race of the pillow block bearing. The inner race is supposed to rotate with the shaft. If you look closely on that second photo showing the pillow block of the main drive shaft, you can actually see a set screw that holds the shaft to the pillow block inner race. So greasing the ball bearings is important because that's where the rotational movement is.

Regarding the feeder drive shaft, I'll have to look closely at it. But as I recall, that joint is an actual "U" joint with (presumably) cup roller bearings on the end of the pins. The reason I say is 2 fold. First, I remember seeing small retaining rings that hold the cups in place and second is the pin itself is a smaller diameter than the cups are. So the pins have to have "caps" on them, but like I said, I'm only guessing that there are needle bearings in those cups like regular "U" joints. I have not had them apart yet.
Hope that helps...
Rob-

Do you have a Point of Contact to get replacement parts for your's? I was going to call Tommy and Ronald to see what they had available, but it makes a world more sense to have a regular U joint style cross in there then what mine had. If you have a direct source for the WC models could you post or PM me please.

When I looked at mine, (and I had problems with the shaft "walking" forward) so I played with it a bit. I think that is a sealed bearing inside the pillow block, and what you are greasing when you grease that nipple is actually the pillow block to the outside, of the outside race of the bearing. If you look at the picture of the driveshaft, you can see it coming out there, I bet if you pick the seal it will still be the sealed chinese grease in there. Unless there is an access hole through the outer race of the bearing to allow the grease in, but I would think that would be tough to do well. I kept meaning to ask that and saw your picture and it reminded me to ask.

After I looked at mine, I thought it was just lubricating the nutational movement of the bearing, so a shot is probably a lifetime supply on there.

 

[3RRL]

Alan, sorry I don't have a point of contact.
I bought this chipper when I bought Loretta's Jinma as a package through a friend of mine. He put it all together. I'll bet Tommy or Ronald would be able to help you out though.
You might be right about the pillow blocks, but I can't tell from the photos. I am at my Rancho home right now and won't be back up to 3R until Tuesday evening. I'll try to remember to check it out then.

 

[srjones]

Rob, I blew up the feeder driveshaft in my WC-06 today, and was looking at the pictures of yours in this post. The picture looks to me like yours has actual small U-joints in it with bearing's etc. Mine has just pins and is made like a standard 1/2" wobble joint. The pins are worn about slap out and the assembly came apart.

Anyway, could you look at yours and tell me if they are actually a cross bearing or are they just pins?

Also, just a question, and keep meaning to ask everyone this, when you see mention of this everyone talks of greasing the bearings, yet really, when you grease those points on those pillow block bearings, are you not just greasing the outer shell of the bearing in reference to the pillow block itself? I don't believe any of that grease actually reaches the rotational parts of the bearing itself or am I missing something there?

Thanks, any suggestions you could offer on that drive line would be appreciated.

Alan,

Do a search for this subject on TBN. This seems to be a common complaint and a few guys have upgraded or modded to a different solution.

 

[srjones]

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/101144-jinma-chippers-16.html

I found it.

 

[3RRL]

I'll be interested to see your solution for keeping the debri from fouling the small belt under the yellow cover. Mine still has the duct tape/cardboard. If the feed roller stops you will smell the rubber from this little belt!

Well, it's been some time since I used the chipper, but got to use it plenty this week.
I had read Larry's thread about all the adjustments and one of the things I did was set the blade gap to the bedding to be .010". Mine came from the factory about 1/8". It was easy to do. One thing that happened is some debris got under the drive belt for the roller feeder. It flipped my belt sideways. It was running like that for a while before I noticed it. I needed to make a shroud to keep the chips out of that area, so here's my solution for that.

I wanted to make a 2 piece shield that would keep the holes covered no matter how high or low the feeder roller was. First I made a cardboard mock up of the stationary and also the moving shield. Then I weld some strips of 1/8" thick x 3/4 wide steel together to make the shields. You can see I needed to add one more width when the roller feeder is lifted up.



I know it's not very fancy, but I wanted it thick enough to withstand the chips and I didn't have any sheet metal. Then, after carefully fitting the shields I tack welded them into place. I wanted to make sure the roller feeder had full travel and that the shield did it's job in all positions of the roller.
Rob-

 

[3RRL]

Below are photos of how the two piece shield came out.
The stationary piece is tack welded to the main housing only. I can still remove the yellow covers. The moving guard is tack welded around the handle where the pillow block is for the roller feeder. These photos show the shield from the gear box side, first one is all the way down, second one is half way up and 3rd one is with the roller all the way up at it's highest point. You can see I added another strip to cover that hole that was there.



This next set of photos are from the inside of the chute.
They are in the same order starting from the roller feeder all the way down, the middle, and all the way up against the stop. You can see there are no gaps from inside or out ... just clearance for the shields to pass each other.
Rob-