Welcome to my Nightmare!!!!

[IH3444]

Eddie, having built over 300 engines, and having an engine machinist buddy for over 25 years, I would seriously consider purchasing an engine kit, with all new sleeves, pistons, rings, etc. Get a good engine machine shop to do a valve job, and even consider new rod bearings, if not mains also. An excellent in frame rebuild will last you a very long time, and you are so far into it now, why not remove any doubt of future problems with the remaiming 5 cylinders. I would also pull the oil pump, and check the back lash on the pump gears. I know this sounds like a lot of $$$, and it is, but the engine will purrr for years to come. I would also invest into a complete set of rebuilt injectors. I know, I can hear your wallet puckering now. Good luck, and you are also one of the hardest working guys I have ever run across. Is their anything you can't do????? /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[EddieWalker]

IH3444,

I spent the day today trying to find a Universal Sleeve Puller to get those sleeves out and realize there is no such creature in or around Tyler. I talked to the mechanics at New Holland and Case, plus a moble mechanic. None have the tool and everyone beats them out. For some reason this suprises me.

I can probalby beat out cylinders 1 through 4, but 5 and 6 will be impossilbe with the cross member in the way. From the looks of the pistons, sleeves and even the bolts on the connecting rods, I think the engien was partially rebuilt at one time, but 5 and 6 were ignored.

6 is totally toast, 5 is about there. The other cylinders are ok, but have enough taper to be noticable and wil just get worse.

I've decided to just build a puller myself. I bought some threaded rod and oversized nuts to create preasure. It's just a matter of cutting, welding and grinding. If it works, I should be able to pull them straight up out of the block.

So yes, I priced the whole rebuild kit at Napa today.

There are tow types of pistons for my year engine. I'll have to give them my engine number to know which ones I need.

Price is either $1,300 or $1,500 for the kit, plus gaskets and other stuff that bring it close to $2,000. Injector nozzles are extra and I haven't priced them yet.

Case and New Holland need my engine serial number before Cummins will give them prices on my parts. I'm also going to two different big truck companies and see what they can get the parts for. One specialises in parts for big rigs, the other is an International, Peterbuilt and Mack dealer.

I'm replacing all the water hoses too. They are in really bad shape and I don't want to have to deal with it next month or at the bottom of a pit someplace that might fill up with water if I leave it there.

All new filters as well. Two for fuel, one for water and one for oil.

I also found out who the dealers use for their valve jobs and will go there tomorow with the head. Silly not to do it now.

I hadn't thought of the oil pump. I have 60 pounds of preasure before the tear down. Should I replace it? I know it works good right now, but will if it's one of those things that need it. I just didn't think it did.

Thanks you,
Eddie

 

[Dozernut]

Please don't use a pressure washer on the radiator fins. The washer will flatten the fins and damage the radiator beyond repair. Don't ask how I know this /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif. Take it to a radiator shop and have it boiled out.

 

[HGM]

I think thats a very good decision Eddie... You'll be happy with it when your done and you know it was done right... It should last you the rest of your life if you continue to maintain it like I'm sure you would...

My opinion on the oil pump, is like recomended, look at it and check for excessive play and any dammage or scoring.. If it looks good, just reuse it.. Dont forget to check the regulator for any contamination or damage..

Can you tack weld a puller to the sleeve? I've never dont one of those, but it may be an option..

 

[IH3444]

Eddie, if the oil pump back lash checks out OK, also check where the pump gears contact the end plates. There should be some circle swirl wear marking there. I recomend you place on a very flat machined surfaced, preferably an inspection plate, and under it place a 600 grit wet and dry paper. Use lots of any 10w-30w oil, and work it around until the swirl marks are almost gone. This will take some time, but will tighten up the end play that occurs during normal engine operation. It allows a slight amount of pressure to "leak" around the end of the gears. This is normal, but tightening it up for the engine next 10,000 hours is a good thing. I think the back lash is kinda critical, and the new pump gears for my IH3444, BD154 engine back in 1987 were $150, so be prepared for your quote. Also look at the gear shape from the end, you can see the wear on the gears. I doubt whoever did the 4 cylinder rebuild ever checked the pump. You are definetly on the correct track with this engine, and I know it is a lot of knuckle busting work, but you will enjoy this machine for the rest of your life. Always good to have a good shape dozer around. I find it hard to part with my completly rebuilt Case 310F. it's like part of the family. Your's is a real big beast of a machine. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Stimw]

I have read posts where people have pulled cylinder liners on old Ford tractors using threaded rod and wood blocks for puller and droping dry ice into cylinder first to shrink it.
I changed one in a 1949 8 N but it was frozen to piston and when I turned the crank it pushed out. I put new liner in the freezer and put 100 watt light bulb in cylinder for a while to warm it up. Drove it home with wood block.

 

[Nasty135]

Dozer, You bring up a good point, I have an electric one (1650psi) and with the nozzle set to wide fan the pressure is reduced quite considerbly... I would just start in from a distance a work in gently, Aren't dozer radiators a little heavier in construction in the finned area? but like you say it could be detrimental if to powerful.... Just thinking...I tried /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[IH3444]

i read a while ago about welding a bead onto the cylinder wall, from the bottom to the top, and after the weld cools, this pulls, or shrinks the cylinder. Never done it, so don't know from experience. If I had a real bugger that wouldn't come out, I would be inclined to try it though. Eddie's on the right path with doing this jobbie the right way. Go fast Eddie! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[EddieWalker]

I droped off the head today. He's not in the yellow pages or with the BBB, but all the shops and Napa recomended him. The mechanic at New Holland said they have to gurantee everything they repair, even if it's farmed out, and he's the only place that does work good enough for them.

He said he'll need the valve kit out of my gasket kit to finish it off, so I shoped around and found out that even though the engine is a Cummins 8.3, Case has some sort of deal with them that you can only get the parts through Case.

My serial number is invalid through any other Cummins dealer!! Napa said there's two versions it could be, but without the serial number, they can't order it. Cost at napa was $2,000 plus for just the basics. Pisonts, sleeves, rings, bearings and gaskets.

Case came in at just over $2,000 but also included wrist pins and a more complete gasket set. Napa never mentioned valve guies where Case did.

I also ordered new Injector Nozzles for $77 each. Two new connecting rod bolts and a set of exhaust manifold bolts. They were only .83 cents each, but the lock clips for them are $2.87 each!!!

I got a new thematat kit with two new thermostats and gaskets.

They gave me all the torque specifications too.

It should be here on Tueseday, so I have until then to get everything ready. Then I'll bring the gasket kit to the machine shop so they can assemble my head and by the time I get the bottom end together, I should be able to pick up the head.

What did I forget? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I do have a bucket of parts that I'm replacing including filters, hoses, fuel line copper washers and everything else I can think of.

I have 6 gallons of anti freeze plus 12 gallons of oil. Anybody know how much oil I need to put in there?

I've heard that it's a good idea to fill the oil filter with diesel fuel when changing the oil. Is this true??

Should I do this on a new engine?

Any tips or advice that you have for me before Tuesday will be greatly appreciate. Things to watchout for or test, ways to do something right or better than I might do otherwise? Or just a clarification on something that doesn't make sense.

Thank you,
Eddie

PS, I don't own a preasure washer, but thanks for the heads up on what could happen if I were to use one. I have all sorts of different grease removing chemicals for the radiator. Between those, the hose and air compressor, I'm hoping to get it fairly clean this weekend.

 

[cmuncy]

Eddie,

Give my very good friend at M&D Distributors in Houston a call.
Jack Laskey - 832-876-4966

Jack has been doing this for years and can tell you what you can and cant/should and shouldn't do.

He can supply you everything you need from the engine kit to injector tips, maybe even the sleve remover.

Yes, he is in sales, but I have been doing business with him for 5 years. Great guy.