Welcome to my Nightmare!!!!

RobJ · May 18, 2006

Eddie, I just picked up on this thread asnd some things are probably to late but I'll offer what I can. I used to do this sort of thing.

Parts, sounds like you are set but there are a ton of places on the net that sell kits. last time we did my BIL's jd350 the kit I found was less than half of deere. About $100 a hole, complete kit. But the more holes and bigger you go the more the cost. Shipped to my door and no tax.

Freezing the sleeves. Not needed. sort of a wives tale. You just need to clean up the lands, lube the o-rings and tap them straight in. Some folks like to install with the pistons loaded. Not me.

Rod bolts a good idea. When you install the pistons, used plenty of lubriplate, rings and all. Put some rubber hose on the rod bolts to protect the crank and to help guide then on. Libraplate everything.

Loading up the oil filter. In a perfect world, yes. Doesn't do much good if you used the proper amount of assemble grease. The oil will pick up in seconds. I would not load the filter with diesel.

Head bolts, sounds like you have what you need. otherwise start in the middle and work out.

Sleeves, well late again, what you made works nice. Ususlly once you get them up an inch or so they will clear the lands and slide right out.

Cylinder head. I would have said to check it out first. You can pull the valves with a deep socket and a couple hammer blows. Then inspect the valve seats for pits. If decent then just run them through a wire wheel to clean and reinstall. A valve spring compressor is only about $25. But on a low revving diesel sometimes you can compress them by hand (leaning heavy on it) with a helper installing the keepers.

To bad I'm not closer to help. Still love to do this even though I run an IT shop for an oil company now. But after about 10 hours on a fresh rebuild of my BIL's jd350, he burned it up again. Brush ripped off the oil pressure gauge line. Put a loose fitting bolt in the galley(not 1/8" pipe!!!) and ran it without checking for leaks. 90 minutes later she stopped. It's locked up now. It was running perfectly to. Oh well.

Good Luck on the completion. Sorry for the spelling, in a hurry.....

RobJ · May 18, 2006

Eddie, I just picked up on this thread asnd some things are probably to late but I'll offer what I can. I used to do this sort of thing.

Parts, sounds like you are set but there are a ton of places on the net that sell kits. last time we did my BIL's jd350 the kit I found was less than half of deere. About $100 a hole, complete kit. But the more holes and bigger you go the more the cost. Shipped to my door and no tax.

Freezing the sleeves. Not needed. sort of a wives tale. You just need to clean up the lands, lube the o-rings and tap them straight in. Some folks like to install with the pistons loaded. Not me.

Rod bolts a good idea. When you install the pistons, used plenty of lubriplate, rings and all. Put some rubber hose on the rod bolts to protect the crank and to help guide then on. Libraplate everything.

Loading up the oil filter. In a perfect world, yes. Doesn't do much good if you used the proper amount of assemble grease. The oil will pick up in seconds. I would not load the filter with diesel.

Head bolts, sounds like you have what you need. otherwise start in the middle and work out.

Sleeves, well late again, what you made works nice. Ususlly once you get them up an inch or so they will clear the lands and slide right out.

Cylinder head. I would have said to check it out first. You can pull the valves with a deep socket and a couple hammer blows. Then inspect the valve seats for pits. If decent then just run them through a wire wheel to clean and reinstall. A valve spring compressor is only about $25. But on a low revving diesel sometimes you can compress them by hand (leaning heavy on it) with a helper installing the keepers.

To bad I'm not closer to help. Still love to do this even though I run an IT shop for an oil company now. But after about 10 hours on a fresh rebuild of my BIL's jd350, he burned it up again. Brush ripped off the oil pressure gauge line. Put a loose fitting bolt in the galley(not 1/8" pipe!!!) and ran it without checking for leaks. 90 minutes later she stopped. It's locked up now. It was running perfectly to. Oh well.

Good Luck on the completion. Sorry for the spelling, in a hurry.....

CurlyDave · May 18, 2006

but hope to get the rebuild kit tomorrow

Hi Eddie:

Any pictures of the kit?

A lot of us have never seen these components laid out on a sheet.

CurlyDave · May 18, 2006

but hope to get the rebuild kit tomorrow

Hi Eddie:

Any pictures of the kit?

A lot of us have never seen these components laid out on a sheet.

EddieWalker · May 19, 2006

Rob,

Thanks for the offer of help and your advice. I did add an oil preasure guage to the engine to see if my problems were too much oil preasure. Nope, 60 lbs at idle.

Dave,

I'll do that in the morning. The kit is very complete, but I added some things and waiting until it all came in to order the connecting rod bolts. Then yesterday I went to put the wrist pin bushings in the freezer so they'd go in easier.

After going through everything, I learned that they are not part of the kit and that they are not always changed. Anybody heard of this before? Mine look warn on the sides and there are a few odd marks on them, but overall, I'd guees I could have kept them.

Cost is $6.50 each.

They are coming from Atlanta and should be here Saturday, but Saturday delivery has to be before noon, or I have to wait until Monday.

In the meantime, I'm putting new carbide cutting teeth on my auger!!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Eddie

EddieWalker · May 19, 2006

Rob,

Thanks for the offer of help and your advice. I did add an oil preasure guage to the engine to see if my problems were too much oil preasure. Nope, 60 lbs at idle.

Dave,

I'll do that in the morning. The kit is very complete, but I added some things and waiting until it all came in to order the connecting rod bolts. Then yesterday I went to put the wrist pin bushings in the freezer so they'd go in easier.

After going through everything, I learned that they are not part of the kit and that they are not always changed. Anybody heard of this before? Mine look warn on the sides and there are a few odd marks on them, but overall, I'd guees I could have kept them.

Cost is $6.50 each.

They are coming from Atlanta and should be here Saturday, but Saturday delivery has to be before noon, or I have to wait until Monday.

In the meantime, I'm putting new carbide cutting teeth on my auger!!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Eddie

IH3444 · May 19, 2006

Eddie, the wrist pin bushing rarely wear out, but it's still good to check them. They are usually inexpensive, and having them installed, then honed to size is not much $$$$.

IH3444 · May 19, 2006

Eddie, the wrist pin bushing rarely wear out, but it's still good to check them. They are usually inexpensive, and having them installed, then honed to size is not much $$$$.

EddieWalker · May 19, 2006

IH,

Thanks, I really appreciate your help and assistance. I know so little about what I'm doing here that my biggest fear is that I'll get it all back together, fire it up, run it long enough to think it's all good. Then in the middle my jungle, it will blow up and I'll have to deal with it half a mile from the shop in a tangle of trees, brush and vines!!!

With yours and the other guys advice, I'm feeling more confident in this project. I'm also hoping that my caution and frear of screwing up will ensure I don't do anything drastically wrong. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Eddie

EddieWalker · May 19, 2006

IH,

Thanks, I really appreciate your help and assistance. I know so little about what I'm doing here that my biggest fear is that I'll get it all back together, fire it up, run it long enough to think it's all good. Then in the middle my jungle, it will blow up and I'll have to deal with it half a mile from the shop in a tangle of trees, brush and vines!!!

With yours and the other guys advice, I'm feeling more confident in this project. I'm also hoping that my caution and frear of screwing up will ensure I don't do anything drastically wrong. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Eddie

IH3444 · May 19, 2006

relax, and rest easy Eddie, you are doing everything as right as can humanly possible be done. Me thinks you are going to windup with a great engine for the rest of your life.
When spinning out the old upper half shell main bearings, use this trick. Do one at a time, place a roofing nail into the oil passage hole in the crank, turn the engine over so that the tab on the bearing shell exits first. Install the new bearing in reverseing order. You will be able to get it started, and almost installed by hand, but use the roofing nail to help slide the bearing into place, and seat the tab. The thin head of the nail is needed so that it clears the block journal while rotating around. As well as not able to slip into the oil journal hole.

IH3444 · May 19, 2006

relax, and rest easy Eddie, you are doing everything as right as can humanly possible be done. Me thinks you are going to windup with a great engine for the rest of your life.
When spinning out the old upper half shell main bearings, use this trick. Do one at a time, place a roofing nail into the oil passage hole in the crank, turn the engine over so that the tab on the bearing shell exits first. Install the new bearing in reverseing order. You will be able to get it started, and almost installed by hand, but use the roofing nail to help slide the bearing into place, and seat the tab. The thin head of the nail is needed so that it clears the block journal while rotating around. As well as not able to slip into the oil journal hole.

RobJ · May 19, 2006

( Rob,

After going through everything, I learned that they are not part of the kit and that they are not always changed. Anybody heard of this before? Mine look warn on the sides and there are a few odd marks on them, but overall, I'd guees I could have kept them.
)

I guess you are talking about the wrist pins? Rare that they would not come with the kit, especially with the new pistons. But you really have to let go if this freezer thing, 32 degrees isn't going to do much. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

But the pins can be a chore to put in, here's how I do it. lube up the pin, put the piston on a table, put your left palm (for righties) on top of the piston and lean on it with your weight (basically you don't want it to jump around). Then hold the pin in the right hand, put it in the opening, it'll probably will get stuck. You want to wiggle it up and down ever so slightly. You can feel it sort of walk in as you wiggle it. Once you get it in a half inch or so it should slide right in. It seems simple but the tolerances are very tight. You are working with a .001 or so.

And don't forget the snap rings in the pins. And double check them with a slight tap with a hammer each way. If you put them in to far they'll click into place, if you left one out to far it'll pop out.

RobJ · May 19, 2006

( Rob,

After going through everything, I learned that they are not part of the kit and that they are not always changed. Anybody heard of this before? Mine look warn on the sides and there are a few odd marks on them, but overall, I'd guees I could have kept them.
)

I guess you are talking about the wrist pins? Rare that they would not come with the kit, especially with the new pistons. But you really have to let go if this freezer thing, 32 degrees isn't going to do much. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

But the pins can be a chore to put in, here's how I do it. lube up the pin, put the piston on a table, put your left palm (for righties) on top of the piston and lean on it with your weight (basically you don't want it to jump around). Then hold the pin in the right hand, put it in the opening, it'll probably will get stuck. You want to wiggle it up and down ever so slightly. You can feel it sort of walk in as you wiggle it. Once you get it in a half inch or so it should slide right in. It seems simple but the tolerances are very tight. You are working with a .001 or so.

And don't forget the snap rings in the pins. And double check them with a slight tap with a hammer each way. If you put them in to far they'll click into place, if you left one out to far it'll pop out.

RobJ · May 19, 2006

( relax, and rest easy Eddie, you are doing everything as right as can humanly possible be done. Me thinks you are going to windup with a great engine for the rest of your life.
When spinning out the old upper half shell main bearings, use this trick. Do one at a time, place a roofing nail into the oil passage hole in the crank, turn the engine over so that the tab on the bearing shell exits first. Install the new bearing in reverseing order. You will be able to get it started, and almost installed by hand, but use the roofing nail to help slide the bearing into place, and seat the tab. The thin head of the nail is needed so that it clears the block journal while rotating around. As well as not able to slip into the oil journal hole. )

Eddie are you replacing the mains? I usually don't seen them in the upper kits. I would probably leave them unless the other bearings showed a lot of damage. I think your damage is limited to the upper end.

But a good tip here none the less.

RobJ · May 19, 2006

( relax, and rest easy Eddie, you are doing everything as right as can humanly possible be done. Me thinks you are going to windup with a great engine for the rest of your life.
When spinning out the old upper half shell main bearings, use this trick. Do one at a time, place a roofing nail into the oil passage hole in the crank, turn the engine over so that the tab on the bearing shell exits first. Install the new bearing in reverseing order. You will be able to get it started, and almost installed by hand, but use the roofing nail to help slide the bearing into place, and seat the tab. The thin head of the nail is needed so that it clears the block journal while rotating around. As well as not able to slip into the oil journal hole. )

Eddie are you replacing the mains? I usually don't seen them in the upper kits. I would probably leave them unless the other bearings showed a lot of damage. I think your damage is limited to the upper end.

But a good tip here none the less.

scott_vt · May 19, 2006

Hi Eddie,
I just kind of stumbled on this thread, dont usually come on this board. For what its worth, the best of luck to you on this very involved project!!! I have never done any real work on diesels and it looks like a bit of buggy lugging on the big stuff, thankgoodness for your loader /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Keep plugging, you will get there. Oh yes, cant stress cleaniness enough on motor assembly. But I guess you knew that allready /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

scott_vt · May 19, 2006

Hi Eddie,
I just kind of stumbled on this thread, dont usually come on this board. For what its worth, the best of luck to you on this very involved project!!! I have never done any real work on diesels and it looks like a bit of buggy lugging on the big stuff, thankgoodness for your loader /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Keep plugging, you will get there. Oh yes, cant stress cleaniness enough on motor assembly. But I guess you knew that allready /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

EddieWalker · May 23, 2006

Just a little update on my latest blunder. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I got the wrist pin bushings on Saturday, but didn't get a chance to put them in until Sunday. The old ones just tap out with a socket, but the new ones took a little effort to put in.

I lubed them first, then carved a piece of oak to get it in. That worked ok with a bit of effort. Then I tried to assemble the pistons and wrist pins. No luck.

The wrist pin would not fit into the bushing. I tried a little persuading with a hammer, and ruind the bushing!!! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Now I'm waiting for another bushing. Seems the only place to get them in from Atlanta. It should be here after 10:30 today. It will go straight to Ray Engine, who is putting them into the connecting rods.

Turns out you have to hone out the bushings to fit the wrist pins. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

OOPS.

Eddie

EddieWalker · May 23, 2006

Just a little update on my latest blunder. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I got the wrist pin bushings on Saturday, but didn't get a chance to put them in until Sunday. The old ones just tap out with a socket, but the new ones took a little effort to put in.

I lubed them first, then carved a piece of oak to get it in. That worked ok with a bit of effort. Then I tried to assemble the pistons and wrist pins. No luck.

The wrist pin would not fit into the bushing. I tried a little persuading with a hammer, and ruind the bushing!!! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Now I'm waiting for another bushing. Seems the only place to get them in from Atlanta. It should be here after 10:30 today. It will go straight to Ray Engine, who is putting them into the connecting rods.

Turns out you have to hone out the bushings to fit the wrist pins. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

OOPS.

Eddie