Welcome to my Nightmare!!!!

   / Welcome to my Nightmare!!!! #141  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">(

Turns out you have to hone out the bushings to fit the wrist pins. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

OOPS.

Eddie


)</font>

Mornin Eddie,
I was running your last sentence off in my head before I even read your sentence /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Not too much harm done, and your learning some valuable lessons to boot /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Youll get there!!!
 
   / Welcome to my Nightmare!!!! #142  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">(

Turns out you have to hone out the bushings to fit the wrist pins. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

OOPS.

Eddie


)</font>

Mornin Eddie,
I was running your last sentence off in my head before I even read your sentence /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Not too much harm done, and your learning some valuable lessons to boot /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Youll get there!!!
 
   / Welcome to my Nightmare!!!! #143  
Eddie, Eddie, Eddie..........read my previous post about the wrist pin bushings having to be honed to size. No harm done, git another bushing. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 
   / Welcome to my Nightmare!!!! #144  
Eddie, Eddie, Eddie..........read my previous post about the wrist pin bushings having to be honed to size. No harm done, git another bushing. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 
   / Welcome to my Nightmare!!!!
  • Thread Starter
#145  
DARN!!!!!!!

Thanks for the advice, guess it's up to me to pay attention!! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

It was supposed to be here today, but the guy in Atlanta sent it out wrong.

I'm back in limbo waiting for parts, which really means, I'm back to cleaning up my boxes of stuff from when I moved here. Not my idea of fun, but I do have allot more room and have found some things I forgot I had, and found allot of things I need to burn!!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Please be patient with me, I'll get it figured out with all your help, it's just a little frustraiting is all. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Eddie
 
   / Welcome to my Nightmare!!!!
  • Thread Starter
#146  
DARN!!!!!!!

Thanks for the advice, guess it's up to me to pay attention!! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

It was supposed to be here today, but the guy in Atlanta sent it out wrong.

I'm back in limbo waiting for parts, which really means, I'm back to cleaning up my boxes of stuff from when I moved here. Not my idea of fun, but I do have allot more room and have found some things I forgot I had, and found allot of things I need to burn!!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Please be patient with me, I'll get it figured out with all your help, it's just a little frustraiting is all. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Eddie
 
   / Welcome to my Nightmare!!!! #147  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">(

I lubed them first, then carved a piece of oak to get it in. That worked ok with a bit of effort. Then I tried to assemble the pistons and wrist pins. No luck.

The wrist pin would not fit into the bushing. I tried a little persuading with a hammer, and ruind the bushing!!! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

)</font>

Piece of oak? to tap them in I guess. Don't get this. Very strange on the rod bushings. In the hundreds of engines I've rebuilt I've never ever had a problem with the wrist pins and rod bushing. Usually it's a little work to get the pins in the pistons. This wold really cause me to scratch my head.

You might be able to get by without honing the bushing IF you press the old out with the new. But as someone else said...I've only replaced a few rod bushings in my time.
 
   / Welcome to my Nightmare!!!! #148  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">(

I lubed them first, then carved a piece of oak to get it in. That worked ok with a bit of effort. Then I tried to assemble the pistons and wrist pins. No luck.

The wrist pin would not fit into the bushing. I tried a little persuading with a hammer, and ruind the bushing!!! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

)</font>

Piece of oak? to tap them in I guess. Don't get this. Very strange on the rod bushings. In the hundreds of engines I've rebuilt I've never ever had a problem with the wrist pins and rod bushing. Usually it's a little work to get the pins in the pistons. This wold really cause me to scratch my head.

You might be able to get by without honing the bushing IF you press the old out with the new. But as someone else said...I've only replaced a few rod bushings in my time.
 
   / Welcome to my Nightmare!!!!
  • Thread Starter
#149  
Rob,

From talking to the mechanics at Case and at New Holland, it's not very common to replace the bushing for the wrist pins. Most just put new wrist pins in with the old bushings.

There is no way I'm competent enough to get those wrist pins on with the new bushings in place. After a few taps with the hammer, I pulled out the wrist pin and saw that I gouged the inside of the bushing all the way around. There is a definate difference in the sizes of the two. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

The old wrist pins have a very small amout of slop to them in the bushings, and the new ones do to. I can put in a wrist pin and ever so slightly move it around.

I hope I'm being clear, there is space between the bushings and the wrist pins. Especially on cylinders 5 and 6.

Pistons 1 and 2 are different than the other pistons and are what I'm putting in there now. This leads me to believe that a partial rebuild was done at one time. The are probably fine, but the kit has all new stuff, so that's what's going in.

Eddie
 
   / Welcome to my Nightmare!!!!
  • Thread Starter
#150  
Rob,

From talking to the mechanics at Case and at New Holland, it's not very common to replace the bushing for the wrist pins. Most just put new wrist pins in with the old bushings.

There is no way I'm competent enough to get those wrist pins on with the new bushings in place. After a few taps with the hammer, I pulled out the wrist pin and saw that I gouged the inside of the bushing all the way around. There is a definate difference in the sizes of the two. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

The old wrist pins have a very small amout of slop to them in the bushings, and the new ones do to. I can put in a wrist pin and ever so slightly move it around.

I hope I'm being clear, there is space between the bushings and the wrist pins. Especially on cylinders 5 and 6.

Pistons 1 and 2 are different than the other pistons and are what I'm putting in there now. This leads me to believe that a partial rebuild was done at one time. The are probably fine, but the kit has all new stuff, so that's what's going in.

Eddie
 
   / Welcome to my Nightmare!!!! #151  
If the pin won't fit that's one thing, if it binded when you installed it and that caused the mark in the bushing then I would suggest putting the pin in from the other side, let it clean up the boogered up part of the bushing. Then just leave it. I don't think it would cause a problem. I remember some kits that came with rod bushings and we never used them.
 
   / Welcome to my Nightmare!!!! #152  
If the pin won't fit that's one thing, if it binded when you installed it and that caused the mark in the bushing then I would suggest putting the pin in from the other side, let it clean up the boogered up part of the bushing. Then just leave it. I don't think it would cause a problem. I remember some kits that came with rod bushings and we never used them.
 
   / Welcome to my Nightmare!!!! #153  
Hope I'm not stepping on anyone's Toes here, but I used to work for Case (about 14 Years worth)-now at John Deere (15 Years and counting).

When I was with Case, we had problems with that engine spitting the Top Ring off of the Piston. In certain Models the was a Mod Program, and Case replaced them at no charge. Now, I am certain this Program has been discontinued years ago.

I agree with the idea that you may have not needed to replace the wrist pin bushings-too late for that now, but if you still haven't resolved it, I would take it to a Machine Shop and have them fit the Pins to the installed bushings. I glanced through this thread and was wondering-are you having the Ijjectors tested (as someone here suggested)? What about the Head-are you having it pressure tested (or black-lighted or magnufluxed)? Sounds like you've had some good advise regarding the Crank spec's. What was the conditon of the Engine when you got it apart? How many hours are on your Dozer? As a general rule, we replace the Rod bolts on Gas engines, not so much on Diesels.

Again, sounds like you have received a lot of good advise here, hope my ramblings help your situation! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
   / Welcome to my Nightmare!!!! #154  
Hope I'm not stepping on anyone's Toes here, but I used to work for Case (about 14 Years worth)-now at John Deere (15 Years and counting).

When I was with Case, we had problems with that engine spitting the Top Ring off of the Piston. In certain Models the was a Mod Program, and Case replaced them at no charge. Now, I am certain this Program has been discontinued years ago.

I agree with the idea that you may have not needed to replace the wrist pin bushings-too late for that now, but if you still haven't resolved it, I would take it to a Machine Shop and have them fit the Pins to the installed bushings. I glanced through this thread and was wondering-are you having the Ijjectors tested (as someone here suggested)? What about the Head-are you having it pressure tested (or black-lighted or magnufluxed)? Sounds like you've had some good advise regarding the Crank spec's. What was the conditon of the Engine when you got it apart? How many hours are on your Dozer? As a general rule, we replace the Rod bolts on Gas engines, not so much on Diesels.

Again, sounds like you have received a lot of good advise here, hope my ramblings help your situation! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
   / Welcome to my Nightmare!!!!
  • Thread Starter
#155  
plowrup,

Thanks for your interest and help.

I've also heard that the early 8.3's had problems with their pistons and that allot of them burned holes in the piston tops. That's what I was expecting when I pulled the head.

Two pistons have been replaces with new rod bolts, but the other four look original. The hour meter says 5,300 hours on it, but it's a 1989 model and the belley plate under the engine is totally packed in sand and I have aftermarket tracks.

The injector nozzles looked pretty bad, with the one from number 4 cylinder breaking off as it came out. I lost a few pices, but was still able to get the core price for it with the others. I bought new nozzles.

The head has been redone, but the original valves were fine and reused. New spirngs and stems. It's ready to pick up, but I'm waiting on everything to be done before I pay. They hope to have the bushing honed today, but it might not be until tomorrow.

In hindsight, I've wasted a week here running back and forth on these bushings. If a little play in the wrist pin and the connnecting rod bushing is normal, than this has been a total waste. For piece of mind, I'm glad I've done it.

The engine itself is spotless. I don't know diesels, so maybe this is normal, but there is no crud or buidlup of any kind. Every internal metal piece is shinny new looking!!

The rod bolts weren't expensive, and I ruined one taking out the piston in number six anyway, so after a few people mentioned it, I went ahead and bought all new rod bolts.

I'm reusing the head bolts and haven't ever heard you shouldn't, so they're keepers. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Everything seems simple enough to me now, except for the valve timeing. Finding TDC for each cylinder seems kind of tricky and I'm hoping the valves opening and closeing as I turn the crank will be fairly obvious.

The only time I've adjusted valves is on a VW in highschool, and it was always running at the time.

Hopefully tomorow will be the magic day and I can start putting it back together.

Eddie
 
   / Welcome to my Nightmare!!!!
  • Thread Starter
#156  
plowrup,

Thanks for your interest and help.

I've also heard that the early 8.3's had problems with their pistons and that allot of them burned holes in the piston tops. That's what I was expecting when I pulled the head.

Two pistons have been replaces with new rod bolts, but the other four look original. The hour meter says 5,300 hours on it, but it's a 1989 model and the belley plate under the engine is totally packed in sand and I have aftermarket tracks.

The injector nozzles looked pretty bad, with the one from number 4 cylinder breaking off as it came out. I lost a few pices, but was still able to get the core price for it with the others. I bought new nozzles.

The head has been redone, but the original valves were fine and reused. New spirngs and stems. It's ready to pick up, but I'm waiting on everything to be done before I pay. They hope to have the bushing honed today, but it might not be until tomorrow.

In hindsight, I've wasted a week here running back and forth on these bushings. If a little play in the wrist pin and the connnecting rod bushing is normal, than this has been a total waste. For piece of mind, I'm glad I've done it.

The engine itself is spotless. I don't know diesels, so maybe this is normal, but there is no crud or buidlup of any kind. Every internal metal piece is shinny new looking!!

The rod bolts weren't expensive, and I ruined one taking out the piston in number six anyway, so after a few people mentioned it, I went ahead and bought all new rod bolts.

I'm reusing the head bolts and haven't ever heard you shouldn't, so they're keepers. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Everything seems simple enough to me now, except for the valve timeing. Finding TDC for each cylinder seems kind of tricky and I'm hoping the valves opening and closeing as I turn the crank will be fairly obvious.

The only time I've adjusted valves is on a VW in highschool, and it was always running at the time.

Hopefully tomorow will be the magic day and I can start putting it back together.

Eddie
 
   / Welcome to my Nightmare!!!! #157  
When setting your valves just turn the engine and watch the rocker arms. With intake and exhaust rocking on number one cyclinder, adjust number 6 valve lash, both intake and exhaust valves.
Rock number 5 and adjust 2, rock 3- adjust 4, rock 6-adjust 1, rock 2- adjust 5, rock 4 - adjust 3. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Welcome to my Nightmare!!!! #158  
When setting your valves just turn the engine and watch the rocker arms. With intake and exhaust rocking on number one cyclinder, adjust number 6 valve lash, both intake and exhaust valves.
Rock number 5 and adjust 2, rock 3- adjust 4, rock 6-adjust 1, rock 2- adjust 5, rock 4 - adjust 3. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Welcome to my Nightmare!!!! #159  
Eddie,

Sorry to ask the same question again here, but I am trying to understand which part failed? Was it a Piston? You did not indicate that you had the Head checked for cracks or straightness-was that done? Have you had the Injection pump checked and recalibrated? With the change in Diesel Fuel (less Zinc and Additives) we have seen increased Injection Pump wear, and, at 5900 Hours if it were in my Shop we would have it checked.
 
   / Welcome to my Nightmare!!!! #160  
Eddie,

Sorry to ask the same question again here, but I am trying to understand which part failed? Was it a Piston? You did not indicate that you had the Head checked for cracks or straightness-was that done? Have you had the Injection pump checked and recalibrated? With the change in Diesel Fuel (less Zinc and Additives) we have seen increased Injection Pump wear, and, at 5900 Hours if it were in my Shop we would have it checked.
 

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