Welcome to my Nightmare!!!!
- Thread starter EddieWalker
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Bird
Rest in Peace
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( a good idea to fill the oil filter with diesel fuel when changing the oil )</font>
Did you really mean "diesel fuel" instead of oil? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif I've heard of filling it with oil, but never heard of using diesel.
Did you really mean "diesel fuel" instead of oil? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif I've heard of filling it with oil, but never heard of using diesel.
CurlyDave
Elite Member
I've heard that it's a good idea to fill the oil filter with diesel fuel when changing the oil. Is this true??
Eddie:
Fill it with oil, not diesel. Diesel will dilute your oil, and change its weight rating in a bad way.
I have always used lots of engine assembly grease when doing a rebuild. I think this prevents excessive wear on initial start up.
Eddie:
Fill it with oil, not diesel. Diesel will dilute your oil, and change its weight rating in a bad way.
I have always used lots of engine assembly grease when doing a rebuild. I think this prevents excessive wear on initial start up.
I don't know how your oil pump is driven, but if you can drive it with a 1/2" drill before cranking the engine over the first time, you should. Been doing that will all my rebuilds for years, it's a happy feeling to see 30psi oil oozing out everywhere and knowing there won't be any dry spots!
jb
jb
ScottAR
Veteran Member
Fuel in the oil filter is probably trying to flush any remaining crud out of the engine... Sounds like a good way to clog up the oil pump pickup to me.
If it's got a spin on fuel filter, it's easier to prime the engine by filling the filter with cheap ATF. It will smoke like a train for a minute or two.
Wix.com lists all the filters for your machine and can interchange other brand part#s too.
Gates.com probably lists the belts and hoses too.
If I was at work, I'd just flip open the catalogs. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
If it's got a spin on fuel filter, it's easier to prime the engine by filling the filter with cheap ATF. It will smoke like a train for a minute or two.
Wix.com lists all the filters for your machine and can interchange other brand part#s too.
Gates.com probably lists the belts and hoses too.
If I was at work, I'd just flip open the catalogs. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
midlf
Platinum Member
Eddie - I second CurlyDave on using assembly lube. When you start an engine there is a film of oil on everything. However with a newly assembled engine this oil is not present, thus the use of assembly lube. Your NAPA will have it. It is a light grease the oil can easily push out and is compatible with engine oil. Regular grease does not have those two properties.
I must have missread that one.... Dont use fuel, there are a couple of instances where you may want to add diesel fuel to your oil, but definitly not this one... You need oil up there... I also agree with the idea that, if you can drive the pump first you should.. Another way to do this is to dissable the fuel supply for the first several rotations of the crank, this way it wont start dry.. It allows oil pressure to build and circulate a but before startup..
OP
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Thanks for the help. I have Lubriplate Assembly Greese for the bearings and I'll use plenty!! The Diesel fuil in the oil filter is something my Dad came up with when changing engine oil. He said it's good for flushing out the system, but I'll just smile the next time he suggests something like that. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Before I brought the head down I decided to remove the exhaust manifold. They less they have to do the less I have to pay. Half the bolts were rotted half way through, but still holding. I broke off the heads on some, and others I had to grind off. I got three out of 12 out by just turning them. I was able to get a few of the busted ones out, but still need three of them drilled and taped by the machine shop.
Eddie
Before I brought the head down I decided to remove the exhaust manifold. They less they have to do the less I have to pay. Half the bolts were rotted half way through, but still holding. I broke off the heads on some, and others I had to grind off. I got three out of 12 out by just turning them. I was able to get a few of the busted ones out, but still need three of them drilled and taped by the machine shop.
Eddie
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EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Getting the sleeves out has turned into a nightmare on it's own. I've never done this and realy don't even know what the sleeves look like. I saw a few pictures online, but that didn't really help me.
What I do know is that if you beat on them hard enough from the bottom, they will slide out.
This isn't an option for me. I'm not taking the block out and there's no way to get to cylinders 5 and 6 from the bottom.
Snapon has a tool for this but they want $800 for it. They did show a picture and that gave me an idea of how to make a tool to do this.
It's kind of like a wheel puller, but a little different.
This is the piece that goes at the bottom of the sleeve. It has a very small lip to catch the sleeve and some brackets to hold it centered inside the sleeve. I also used a long bolt to hold the threaded rod that will pull on it.
Eddie
What I do know is that if you beat on them hard enough from the bottom, they will slide out.
This isn't an option for me. I'm not taking the block out and there's no way to get to cylinders 5 and 6 from the bottom.
Snapon has a tool for this but they want $800 for it. They did show a picture and that gave me an idea of how to make a tool to do this.
It's kind of like a wheel puller, but a little different.
This is the piece that goes at the bottom of the sleeve. It has a very small lip to catch the sleeve and some brackets to hold it centered inside the sleeve. I also used a long bolt to hold the threaded rod that will pull on it.
Eddie
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EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Since I've never done this, I had no idea how far I had to pull the sleeve to get it out. The sleeve is around 10 inches long, so I figured I needed the puller to be about a foot off the deck.
My first attemp didn't work. The rod just started bending on me. I added the angle iron to stiffen it up.
Then I used my impact wrench on a bolt on the threaded rod.
The plywood is to protect the deck, spread the load and hold the feet in place. I added nuts to the ends to stop the rod from sinking into the plywood so much.
Eddie
My first attemp didn't work. The rod just started bending on me. I added the angle iron to stiffen it up.
Then I used my impact wrench on a bolt on the threaded rod.
The plywood is to protect the deck, spread the load and hold the feet in place. I added nuts to the ends to stop the rod from sinking into the plywood so much.
Eddie
